markd
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Posts posted by markd
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markd, that sure looks like the cougar buttress headwall that you freed this past fall. and it's west of bend, about 11 miles. am i right?
nice job bryan and thanks for going up and climbing it with me.
best route in central orgeon
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what kind of routes are you looking to climb and how many pitches?
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we did as one...maybe he did too?
wow, didn't know that was possible as the first pitch is 150' or so and the next pitch is at least 50' then you traverse way right ( another 50' ) to anchor under huge terrace. nice job linking.
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reed's is to the left.
good eye RuMR.
honestly, bishop's terrace is the first route i thought of when i looked at the photo, however, he said it was a 1 pitch route and bishop's is two. if you don't climb pitch two, you won't even get to the 'bishop's terrace' - hence route name.
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i think you're right pink. the ramp in the beginning and then the thin hands off the top of that. nice eye.
now post some beacon photos.
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Mark - No idea on the route, don't think I've ever been there, but it's some great-looking rock. What direction from Bend?
west.
is yours the 10a ( forgot name ) near the start of royal arches?
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my bad on the inside joke, pink - i'm a little slow
i'll keep posting them throughout the day.
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who cares if pink_chalk is a guy or girl
she's a climber and a good one to boot.how about a guess kevin?
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i haven't seen this up on the front page for a while so, here's my attempt to bring it back. not many people may know this but it's a great pitch in central oregon.
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Mark,
What was your first Beacon FA?
windwalker. it was the first fa i did anywhere.
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wayne,
i'd love to hear the story behind flight time... was it a whipper that brought about the name. you've been around for some cool routes.
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pink,
school on us some of the history of one of the north side routes you've put up. most people probably don't even know that they're there!
kevbone,
what about your ken story where he told you to suck it up and rope solo with your atc.
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beacon will either make you or break you as a climber; what a brilliant crag to find out your place in the climbing spectrum. it is where i became the climber i am and where i learned that new routes were one thing i wanted to experience from climbing. my first, first ascent was there and is still one of my favorite routes to date, despite the fact that no one climbs it
my first climbing season there, i went out with guy pinchot ( sp? ) - who was a mentor to me back in flagstaff, when we both lived there. the south face was closed, so he had a great idea of climbing up the north face to the top. sounded good to me so off we went. we made steady progress ( guy leading ) and were soon within one pitch of the summit. off guy went, however this time, a 100ft out or so, the roped stopped and no progress was made for a long time. he soon yelled back that he had no pro in and was going to down climb and if remember correctly he sounded a little nervous!
he made it back to the belay and we sat for a while a little unsure of how we were going to get back down what we had just climbed up. we were a few pitches above a fixed rope that had been there when we climbed by, so we knew if we made it there we'd be 'fine.'
we rapped tree to tree and were soon at the fixed line two pitches up. guy went first and about 20 ft down i heard him scream... he had just wrapped over a core shot in the rope and was hanging by threads; literally. he managed to pull himself back above it and up to the belay. again we sat for a little while with not much to say.
we were soon on the ground, relieved to be back to the horizontal world. now all we had to do was drive home. it was at this moment he realized he locked his keys in the trunk! beacon is just one of those places that makes you better. at this moment, i knew beacon was indeed for me.
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one of our favorite winter bouldering spots in the desert east of bend:
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first ascent of unnamed route:
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happy birthday to one of the best friends and climbing partners a person could ask for.
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here's a pic of one of the bolts on the bolted crack:
colonelfridae,
the topo isn't so much of a mystery as you might think; however, folks are leery to pass out beta because of the potential for more of the above. send me a pm and i might be able to help you with some beta.
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cougar is a great crag and it would be a shame if it became a big clip up crag. the adventurous spirit has lasted many years and there is no reason for that to change as there are plenty of other crags around bend.
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jim anglin is a legendary figure in oregon rock climbing. his adventurous spirit and passion for new routes - in good style - is admirable and proud. his spirit will always live on and be inspiration to those that new him and to those that only knew of him. i'm unfortunately the latter and will always think of him as i walk down into smith and look up at the picnic lunch wall or as i pass cull's in space when walking the backside.
jim, thanks for being the person that you were and setting an example of what climbers can aspire to be. you will be missed by many and surely me.
condolences to the family and immediate friends of this wonderful human being.
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really nice work joseph! it's nice to see you find a line and follow through with it. good energy at the great stone in the columbia river gorge.
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The place languished until some of these pups showed up and on rappel, cleaned it off, and put in bolts... where or if needed.
bill,
i agree with most everything you've been saying which is why i stand to correct this one statement. while it's generally true that people were rapping in exclusively and pre-inspecting routes and equipping fixed pro; it is not true across the board. there was plenty of debate on the overuse and abuse of bolts...
i'm not going to list my resume, but i will say: that's *generally* ( i rap bolted 1 route ) not my history out there and i was very vocal in opposition of rap bolting the crap out of this crag.
i love that you're out finding gear routes - there is still plenty more. keep the adventure alive bill; you the man.
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Post deleted by markd
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the trout guide is online! it costs $5 i believe.
jlag,
i pm'ed you about updated route beta.
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what a bunch of mindless spray from people who have never been to the area.
raindawg and pope: where do you come up with your standards that you impose on other people? in reality, i agree with a lot of what you say; however, after a while it all sounds the same and it gets hard to read.
thanks to whomever is doing the trailwork. it's a thankless thing to do and i appreciate it.
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i watched from the meadow and regardless what anyone says - it's an amazing feat; period!
pink climbed SPACE. not many people can say they ventured up that part of el cap.
name that route
in Rock Climbing Forum
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notice the smiley face. you know how snoop and i always say that anyway...