markd
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Posts posted by markd
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pink chalk,
having seen you climb, i'm fairly certain you didn't fall on the lower section of critical mass. which makes we wonder what the hell he could have been on???
as far as your question: i'm not sure there is a right answer. one thing is for sure though: people have been soloing since the beginning of climbing so it's an accepted part of the sport. having said that - i'm not sure why someone would want to solo in a crowd, if there were other options.
coming down to sunny!!! central oregon anytime soon?
Mark: he wasn’t on the 11+ when I swung over to say hi. I'll ask Jaime what the climbs were. The swing occurred ~3/4 high on Critical Mass, he was right and lower of me... warming up, but not snoop style
I understand the history of soloist with some level of respect but it scares me to see how it is becoming more and more accepted and glorified in the magazines. Just my opinion. I don’t want to be around it and find it disturbing that this climber traveled so closely to us.
To his credit, I am amazed by his physical and mental strength. Looked to be 5.13+ climber. These guys keep pushing the limits til one day..... Kaboom.
i agree about the glorifying of it in the mags... - though i don't think this is a new trend. when you look at old mags, you can find plenty of pics of hersey, croft, barber and bachar amongst others soloing the high end grades of the time. i think the problem now-a-days is that climbing is a mainstream sport that *maybe* should have stayed a fringe sport.
i think a trip down to visit me IS in order.
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I went climbing with my girlfriend out at Beacon. It was her first time out there and someone soloed past her on P1.
probably ivan on one of his solo laps! ( just kidding ivan )
10 years ago it would have been andrew and ken because they were CRAZY!
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markd, i think you doubled your post today.
i think you're right pink. some days are slower than others at work.
when you heading back this way?
mid july maybe september hope to see you this time around
mid july, huh. i can't imagine why you'd want to come here then
if you get some time off before that and want to make a nw loop - you should think about visiting me. i've got some adventure we could get ourselves into.
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pink chalk,
having seen you climb, i'm fairly certain you didn't fall on the lower section of critical mass. which makes we wonder what the hell he could have been on???
as far as your question: i'm not sure there is a right answer. one thing is for sure though: people have been soloing since the beginning of climbing so it's an accepted part of the sport. having said that - i'm not sure why someone would want to solo in a crowd, if there were other options.
coming down to sunny!!! central oregon anytime soon?
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markd, i think you doubled your post today.
i think you're right pink. some days are slower than others at work.
when you heading back this way?
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get him a new harness and then convince him to accept it that would be great for his belay partner.
Never happen. I have been trying for 10 years.
kevin,
i still have your harness ( light blue ) that you were just as stubborn to retire a few years ago! i plan on saving it for a while and then bringing it out for a laugh down the road.
How do you have my old harness? Did I leave it at your house or something? I would like to get it sometime from you!
not sure how i ended up with it. i've had it for a few years. ( and a few moves ) i've only saved it because i knew it would be funny down the road.
remember when i wouldn't let you belay me with it?
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I believe that was the weekend before last, and you had better save me a hand crack or two, or else I'll just have to keep repeating yours. were you at the Opal?
sorry no more hand cracks. opal? never heard of it
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Last Saterday was windy as hell. I climbed Little Wing and my whole body was swaying with the wind. Thought I was coming off for sure. Then at the belay I set my pack down and It blew right off the Rock down to the ground.
We did the corner pitch and then bailed off the tree againts my wishes, but Jim was wanting to get down. Bailing off the tree is some of the scariest shit I've ever done. While I was sitting on the roots of the tree, I actually felt the ground below me lift off of the rock. Fastest rappel I've ever done.
Jim liked the jacket you gave him Joseph. Now if we can all pitch in and get him a new harness and then convince him to accept it that would be great for his belay partner. He actually caught me on a 15 foot fall last spring and the duct tape held, thank god.
Stewart
you're a punk snoop! you were supposed to be climbing down here last weekend.
we did four ground up first ascents... next time you should come?
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get him a new harness and then convince him to accept it that would be great for his belay partner.
Never happen. I have been trying for 10 years.
kevin,
i still have your harness ( light blue ) that you were just as stubborn to retire a few years ago! i plan on saving it for a while and then bringing it out for a laugh down the road.
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it was listed as an aid climb in the the 92 watts guidebook because no one had freed it yet.
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kevin,
tommy and beth did not bolt this climb - beth did the first free ascent.
alan watts and brook sandhal (sp?) bolted it in the 80's.
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thanks for sharing. the pics and video were nice to see. looked like a worthwhile adventure.
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thanks pink.
big ledge is one of my favorite places to hang and climb from.
view to the west:
view to the east. i'd really like to climb flying swallow.
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arent leading one of the classics above joseph's new route.
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Does it have a second accent? Is it independent, or a variation?
the route climbs the next weakness over (to the east) from locals access only. i believe it shares the same start (joseph?) with reasonable richard and local access only, then breaks off right to get into it. i'm not sure what that qualifies it as, however, it appears to be as independent as the previously mentioned routes.
joseph: does this route have the potential to be better than the other options? if yes, would it be worth cleaning up more?
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bill, where does that pitch end at (under what climb). is that under flying swallow?
it's just to the right of local access only. it climbs to the reasonable richard anchor.
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bachelor is looking good again today too. except for the 1 degree temp! however it's bluebird with good snow.
glad you got some turns bill - tis the season.
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conditions at bachelor today were really good. it was very cold with fluffy snow.
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andrew,
your inability to have an educated conversation is astonishing!
i'm not playing your game. do you have anything on topic to say?
mark, i do beleive that you diverted the topic yourself and i don't think kevin is fishing for info for his own guide. if kevin is going to put out a guide and you disagree with it, maybe it would have better to p.m. him. what was your angle with your post to kevin anyway?
mr. pink
the topic of this thread is guidebooks. all i talked about in my original post was guidebooks. my only off topic post was to you after you made some unprovoked comments to me.
kevin knows what i think about the guide. that's why i proposed some specific questions for him, so the forum could join in. he would have done the same to me if i was creating this guide. what do you think about guidebooks for unpublished areas that have the potential to get shut down? what if you were one of the original developers? you sure had a lot to say about beacon when that was on the chopping block, as i did as well. i'm very passionate about places i develop and this place happens to be one of them.
have a good day - i'm off to the mountain for first chair and some fresh pow.
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peter,
where did i put kevin down? ( we're friends ) i have a vested interest as i've put up routes there.
this crag has the potential access issues as well. i just want to be sure a guide is the right thing to do, which by the way is the title of this thread, not "lists".
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- why do you feel the need to write a guidebook? The guide is more of a list, and its for me.
- what do the other developers think of said guidebook? Not sure, once again, this "list" is for me.
- how will you go about giving star ratings? I wont. That is what this topic has been about. I dont want to guide/direct people to certain climbs, that is if it ever goes public.
- who is your target market? There is none. Its not for sale. Not at this time.
- do you feel like the most qualified person to do this? Most qualified? Unsure. But I do know that there are about 5 of the 61 routes there that I have not climbed, I would say Im qualified for a list of climbs.
thanks for your honest answer, however i don't understand why you would need to have star ratings on routes you already climbed, if this "list" is for you.
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andrew,
your inability to have an educated conversation is astonishing!
i'm not playing your game. do you have anything on topic to say?
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kevin,
some things to think about:
- why do you feel the need to write a guidebook?
- what do the other developers think of said guidebook?
- how will you go about giving star ratings? based off consensus?
- who is your target market?
- do you feel like the most qualified person to do this?
Beacon Rock/PDX area this Sunday (1/28)?
in Climbing Partners
Posted
maybe it's more fair to say, some people have thought of soloing as acceptable for a while now and some haven't. i'm not here to say what's right and wrong as far as soloing - i don't think they'll ever be consensus.
IMHO, soloing is one of many disciplines in climbing that is a worthwhile pursuit. it's part of being a well rounded climber.
i know i've seen you solo...