atomic

Interesting, Dru. Now you've really got me thinking. Ditto the preference for "harder" climbing on good rock than "easier" on something with more objective danger--my particular bane is grit or dirt. I'll solo mid-fifth if it's solid, especially for the hands (think The Tooth), but if it's 5.0 but dirty I'm going to involve a rope somehow (although maybe not full pitching-out). But then, doesn't that suggest that the lower rating doesn't really capture the real difficulty of the climb? Not that I have to have all this laid out to enjoy climbing.... But it is kind of interesting. Someone asked me a couple of weeks ago if a 5.7 friction climb was harder than a 5.7 edging (or whatever you'd call it) climb. I wasn't exactly sure how to answer, other than to say that the rating is supposed to cover the whole "difficulty" without reference to your particular strengths or weaknesses. Crack climbing would be another good example. Hmmm. Like I said, interesting.

Regarding the above reply fragment (I'm new to this--hit the wrong button), I was wondering what that meant: the 2-part system stuff.

Scoe, glad you'll be getting your shoe. Catbirdseat, I agree about the bolt near the top. I certainly don't believe in wanton bolting, but I've been to that spot twice now, and I also think that the route would make a nice beginning lead. The lack of placement opportunities near the top simply relegates it to top-roping for most. To run that route out confidently would require a 10a+ climbing ability IMHO, simply because it's not a steep, juggy 5.7/5.8 experience (with more hang-time involved in your fall), but rather a slightly gritty, well-off-vertical face climb that would end up on that little ledge that was mentioned. I did lead it, and went up the left side thinking that there would be at least something up higher, or else I could just suck it up and run it out (big deal, right? it's only 5.7 or.8--I can't remember which side is which). There was one move about 15 ft below the top that sketched me just enough to contemplate the grind I would enjoy all the way down to the ledge, so I traversed left and slung that jammed rock and came back out on the route, thinking that I'd rather pendulum into the moss than hit the ledge (gaper's choice). Oh, and then everyone else TR'd it (yawn). Actually, the route to the right used to be bolted, from what I heard. Someone chopped 'em last summer, I think. Guy must have been pretty passionate about either run-outs or top-roping, and wanted to help preserve both for posterity.

It was still there sunday afternoon. We set it up on a rock (to be visible) but didn't take it because we figured you'd come back for it.