kioti

Hey, I'm wondering if any of you have suggestions on Huts in Washington, Oregon. I've only been to the Mount Tahoma Huts once, but will be getting out this year to Scottish Lakes, Wallowa Alpine Huts, and Mount Tahoma Huts again as well. Any that I am missing and should check out? I'm writing a magazine article and want to give coverage where coverage is due. Thanks, Alan

Why doesn't someone from the board get hired by the TSA, then you can make up rules about gear not being allowed, then distribute the booty to cc'ers. Seems fool proof. I know if I saw a few cams go by on the x-ray, they wouldn't be making it far.

Uploaded some pictures from drytooling last Saturday at the Butte. It was my first time out drytooling, and I had a blast. I'll be out again... soon.

We just need to be patient, apparently.

My recommendation for skis would be something along the lines of Atomic's TM 22 (renamed this year, but still around) or the Black Diamond Ethic. These skis will help you through learning the technique, they're pretty light too! My choice on binding is the 22designs (read: Rainey Designs) Hammerhead. It's the most positive feeling binding that I've skiied with. A bit expensive though. For an awesome cheaper alternative, go with the voile hardwire. (I think it's $125 and included shims, leashes, climbing wires) Sizing of skis for someone of your weight should be around 170 or so. Shorter will be easier for you (for the most part). Hope this helps. Get out and demo some skis as we get into the season (Snow level at 5000 feet in the N. Oregon Cascades!). Our recommendations realistically don't mean shit when it comes to what you'll like.

It's harder to move the stove by grabbing the fuel bottle and putting it where you need now. The new stove is WAY more packable though.

I don't have any tools at this point, but I'd be in if someone was kind enough to let me bash their stuff up. I'll return the favor when I get tools, I swear. When are you climbing? Are you gonna be at da Butte?

Did you try mountain shop, BillA? If not, there may be some there for highangle or JayB. JayB you should call Marmot Mtn Works in Bellevue, if you are on Cap. Hill as your location suggests.

I have more of a problem with gear being cheap after I bought it

Sierra Trading Post has limited sizes of Freney XT's for $150. Good deal if you need 'em and they have your size. STP, Freney XT!

I work with Outdoors NW Magazine, We made the correction in our September Issue. Things happen that slip through the cracks, such is the editorial life. We should be having a short feature with Yvon Chouinard in the coming months as well. Keep your eye peeled for that!

You might have gotten the 400 heel piece instead. The 400 was the exact same binding with the exception of the heel lockdown unit. You either had to be really good at swinging a ski pole to engage/disengage it, or bend over and do it. When they switched to the 404 design, the whole unit was thinner, so they narrowed the wire. I would say goto OMC or the Mountain Shop and see if they have some spare parts that you might be able to swap with them. Another option is to contact Marmot/Backpackers Supply in Bellevue/Tacoma respectivly. I KNOW they have climbing wires for the 404. Good Luck

I would worry more about rock fall than crevasses. I haven't been on the mountain this late, but I have never had the desire to be on it this late.

That may be CC, I'm having a hard time of keeping everything straight. The Januk is the replacement for the Teledaddy. I think atomic only has about 2 or 3 new skis on the table, the rest are all rebranded. BD did a good job on their graphics this year, The crossbow is way cooler, the havoc is rad, except for a subliminal alien face on the shovel, the ethic remains the same, which is sweet.

I'd like to hit it, but I don't think the conditions are at all ideal. Unless you like volcanic choss.

Have you skied any other Atomic Skis. They mostly went through a rebranding more than anything. I believe that the Janak is the TM-x with new graphics. It skis like it anyways. If you are a fairly aggressive skier, you should be fine. In my experience, get these the next size down from what you first think. I would usually ski a 184 in this one, but the 177 is way better for me.

Mt Hardware makes a similar shirt called the offwidth, great price on it (I think you can find Spring's version on sale, because they are changing it slightly (I think?)) something around 80 retail, maybe 60 on sale?

They're pretty sexy, though. They'd look good popping!

LaFuma is the worst at giving their bags misleading names. (with the exception of the one kilo bag). I tested a bag, the warm n' light 800 confort. I assumed that the 800 stood for the down quality, nope its 650. Where the hell does that number come from? Aparently it's the weight in grams, ugh. Overall, I wasn't impressed with the quality, shell material, down fill (I still don't think it was 650). The only thing that is impressive is the price, but you can get a cheap marmot down bag for a similar price and have a company in the states.

Shoulda gotten the Petzl Reversino (the smaller version of the reverso for thin ropes). Mine has worked awesome so far.

Why did you buy them in the first place if your Pro Ice's Rock so. Are you planning any multi-day trips in the future? A trip where you'll actually use them to their advantage? If not, return them. Or give them to me if you feel guilty about returning them

I have a pair of Montrail Lotus boots. They are light, waterproof and pretty comfortable. It seems that the sizing is a little off on them, as I wear a 11.5 in that boot, but did buy them to fit a thick sock in. Downside to montrails now is that their crampons are recalled. I've used the BD Sabretooth crampons with my boots, and the fit isn't amazing, it works though. The heel of the sole is very rounded, making the posts on the crampon tough to get on. A little action with the pliers will do the job though. There are also two metal peices on the bottom of the boot, these are designed to fit the montrail crampons. They can get a little skittish when you're jumping across scree. You have to be very aware of them there, otherwise you'll land on one and have to regain balance.Plenty comfortable to hike in though. I got these boots because I was having problems with other boots crunching my toes. (scarpa Freney Pro) I wish I waited a few more months though. I really like La Sportiva's Trango series. I would have gone with the extreme, but the EVO S would do the job for you. I think it is even lighter than my montrails too. Go try some boots on, find the boot that doesn't chew up you toes and heels, then you'll be in business. I've bought boots because I thought they were cool (Scarpa Freney Pro) but they didn't fit. The Montrails are cool, but they don't get me excited the same way. But they sure as hell fit a lot better. Alan

I saw the sign the other day too, I tried to pop in but the door was locked during regular business hours, The people inside just looked at me...

I've been enjoying the Gregory Exo-Series packs (I have the Ekko). The pack moves with you well, Seems to carry everything I need well (except a shovel), and is super comfy. It is a bit heavier than some, but I've had it loaded with plenty of stuff before and it didn't break my back. My ultimate recommendation would be to go to your local gear shop and try on some stuff. I don't know where exactly you're located, but here is my run down of shops in different regions. Portland- The Mountain Shop (US Outdoors blows) Olympia- Alpine Experience (great selection) Tacoma- Backpackers Supply (only REAL gear shop in town) Seattle- Feathered Friends Bellevue- Marmot Mtn Works Everett- Cascade Crags Any one of those shops will spend some time with you to find the right pack. Alan

I've been impressed with Alpine Ex in olympia for their selection, But I think their service kinda sucks. A bit further north is Backpackers Supply in Tacoma. I used to work there, and I would have said, come see me. I would say pop in and see Aaron or Rob there. They both do some climbing. Aaron is more alpine, while Rob is more rock and aid. Both are pretty damn knowledgeable. They have (had?) the Trango Extreme Evo in stock, kick ass boot if it fits you. Good Luck!