TeleRoss

I also think that some climbers like to only climb hard. Cragging and bouldering provides this opportunity for many climbers. You can walk up to a crag and climb a dozen 5.12 pitches in an afternoon. To get a dozen 5.12 pitches in the alpine might take a whole season...more likely longer. And I think that a lot of climbers who enjoy climbing for the pure difficulty of the climb do not want to endure what can be brutal approaches, and long routes with many pitches in the more moderate to easy grades. In the Cascades there might just not be too many walls that can support that level of continuous difficulty to attract such climbers.

I do think that part of it in the Cascades in particular is the fact that there just isn't that big of a supply of big steep lines with good rock out there. Stuart Range has a few areas, but other than CBR, NE Butt of Dragontail, and areas on Stuart there isn't much. WA Pass has E face Liberty Bell, S Face SEWS and some areas on the Silver Star massif. So I think Blake's initial assertion may be closest to the truth...the alpine rock potential in the cascades just may not be enough to entice those who climb at a high standard to endure the approaches and lousy rock to put up hard alpine routes.

I think there is a rich history of hard alpine climbing that can trace it's roots back to the crags of the PNW. Paul Boving, Jim Nelson, Bruce Carson, Dave Anderson, Pete Doorish, Bryan Burdo, Steve House...those are just a few from past generations off the top of my head...and now with the new generation of PNW climbers like Colin Haley, Jens Holsten, Sol Wertkin, Blake Harrington, Ben Gilkison...etc....

such an awesome chunk of sierra alpine goodness! Definitely a few lines up there I'd like to climb

Trip:Atlantis and Romantic Warrior Date: 9/9/2012 Trip Report: I love the Needles, these spires have definitely cast their spell on me and rekindled the fire I once had for climbing. I had to go back...again. The climbing is just too f'ing good to ignore. There were two routes that were beckoning me to return... stronger, fitter, and more determined, and with a partner feeling the same. Some of my best memories in the mountains have been shared with my good friend Sky. It had been quite a while since we had seen each other, let alone climbed stout alpine routes together, but we found some common goals and set about to see what might transpire. Great times, chill moments, misery, frosty beers, splitter stone, misfortune, crushing and being crushed, rising to the challenge and being humbled would all be part of one of my greatest trips to the hills..... Sky flew in to San Diego Friday evening and we spent some time catching up over frosty beverages and burgers at a chill spot out in Ocean Beach. Saturday we stocked up on beer and pastis, and made the never ending drive to the Needles and set up camp. Sunday dawned cool and clear and we made the familiar(to me anyhow) slog along the ridge out to the Needles. Sky's first impression upon seeing the spires was quite similar to mine...amazement and awe and stoke! Atlantis 5.11c.... Atlantis follows a striking line linking splitter cracks just right of the center of the east face of the Sorcerer [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/s720x720/577125_10150826226697757_147493404_n.jpg[/img] Sky eying the first pitch, an awkward and stellar leaning corner [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/s720x720/10436_10151005368282757_957004879_n.jpg[/img] Sky leading the goodness [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/557376_10151005368422757_1060549567_n.jpg[/img] Me following [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/246658_10151005370332757_878243355_n.jpg[/img] Nearing the end of the first pitch [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/396546_10151005370532757_1204917688_n.jpg[/img] I led the second pitch linking flakes and cracks up to a big ledge from which the crux 11c pitch begins. While Sky followed some ominous clouds began building and darkening. As Sky was getting stoked for the crux lead and placing his first couple of pieces from the ledge, not too distant thunder began echoing amongst the spires. We hemmed and hawed a bit before making the decision to fix our rope and bail. Good call...as soon as we got down the sky let loose with a torrent of rain wind hail and lightning. We huddled along with 4 other climbers waiting for some respite. A very cold and miserable hour later the storm finally cleared and we all made our way back to camp to dry and warm ourselves by the fire. The next day we started late and jugged the line back to the top of the second pitch. Sky leading the crux pitch, some powerful layback moves to a big reachy move to a good edge...followed by some stellar finger crack moves to a classic "OH NO" sloper! Topped off with a splitter thin hands crack. Good fun! [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/564680_10151005368572757_343365476_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/422587_10151005368637757_159990246_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/523551_10151005368717757_476112104_n.jpg[/img] Me in the splitter had crack [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/304648_10151005374667757_216055211_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/560467_10151005374757757_133543802_n.jpg[/img] After the crux pitch you have the option of topping out, or making a one pitch detour on a route called Lost at Sea, a sweet flake leading out across a smooth steep swath of stone, with a killer mantle at the end, with thin gear behind the thinning, expando-flake. Me leading [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/563936_10151005374812757_1665222720_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/400871_10151005374892757_1452794741_n.jpg[/img] The steep section was sweet, with great gear, but as you near where the flake turns right and turns into a finger tips traverse, it gets thin and very moveable. Unnerving gear behind the thin expando-flake was not calming my nervers as I eyed the mantle at the end. It was all up in my head but what was there to to but just get a high foot on the flake and stand? ha! I nearly pitched, thought I was gonna die, but somehow regained poise and stood up to clip the chains...PHEW! Sky following [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/417204_10151005376012757_1854556200_n.jpg[/img] We rapped back down to the start of the last pitch of Atlantis, some funk undercling to layback, and up into a classic thin needles corner. Sky leading just off the belay [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/429965_10151005376302757_1240355507_n.jpg[/img] me following the corner [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/251082_10151005377667757_336397508_n.jpg[/img] What a route! Stellar, involved climbing with a couple of powerful cruxes. Always well protected, and always interesting. From the top of the Sorcerer, we rapped into the notch between Sorcerer and Charlatan, and climbed out Gemstone to the top of Charlatan, before stashing our gear and hiking back to camp. The next day we had much bigger plans. To climb THE route in the Needles, and maybe one of the best routes anywhere. Romantic Warrior climbs the singular feature on the SW flank of the Warlock Needle. A striking, steep, sweeping line with 3 pitches clocking in at 5.12, and one a very stout 11d. I was both stoked and quite intimidated at attempting such a climb. The Needles from below [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/s720x720/578360_10151005384212757_1264618045_n.jpg[/img] There is conflicting beta on how best to approach Romantic Warrior. We chose what seemed to be the most direct and least time consuming: Drop down the notch between the Witch and Warlock and make our way down to the route...sounds easy enough. We climbed up a chimney up to the notch and found a rappel anchor on the other side. A single 70m rope rap got us down to scrambly ground between the spires. It's an intimidating place down in there with smooth stone rising on both sides. [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/396387_10151005384262757_1187786792_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/s720x720/545950_10151005456392757_1446546690_n.jpg[/img] A bit of scrambling down the gulley led to a massive chimney and cliff. We found a rap anchor and Sky went first but the rope came up short and we couldn't make the ledge below. Bummer. We scrambled back out and sussed out our options. We discussed other climbs, possibly relocating to the Valley or High Sierra, but came to the conclusion that it would be pussification of us to forgo the route we had come for due to a slight setback while we still had a day left on the trip. We had heard that you could approach the route from a lower road so we hiked back to camp, packed up and drove out. The lower road afforded us some beautiful views, but the approach looked long and heinous through scrubby brush and steep slopes. Again, we went back and forth about what to do before deciding to head back up to camp and approaching from above, this time by dropping down between the Witch and Sorcerer, and continuing all the way down and around the Necromancer. This proved to be the magic potion, and early the next morning we were greeted with our first glimpses of this amazing route. Romantic Warrior 9p. 5.12b....for us 5.12 C0 Looking up the first four pitches [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/576910_10151005384387757_759727642_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/576961_10151005384437757_1517284984_n.jpg[/img] Once again stoked and quite intimidated, I tied in and set off up the first pitch, a funky, greasy 5.10 corner with typically fiddly gear. [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/422854_10151005385492757_1194764335_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/250307_10151005385572757_1954830027_n.jpg[/img] Sky following [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/578550_10151005386912757_829272688_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/377880_10151005386972757_1202819291_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/551931_10151005387092757_298166949_n.jpg[/img] The second pitch is the "Living Corner"...the best 5.7 in the universe?...quite possibly! [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/304585_10151005386842757_62296976_n.jpg[/img] Sky leading the Living Corner [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/223867_10151005387207757_455782175_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/577011_10151005387307757_843139169_n.jpg[/img] Brassies....mandatory for the Needles! [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/198537_10151005385652757_1544375174_n.jpg[/img] Me leading the sweet 5.11 layback flake on the third pitch [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/303978_10151005391137757_2145882458_n.jpg[/img] Yup...it was steep and fun! [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/252488_10151005391232757_804622970_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/402265_10151005391737757_896108320_n.jpg[/img] Sky following, nearing the top of p. 3 [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/408258_10151005395492757_855001092_n.jpg[/img] We were like giddy kids in a candy store at this point. Maybe counting our chickens before they hatch, probably quite naive as to the turn in nature the route was about to take. Looking up the beautiful, thin, very steep fourth pitch [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/318411_10151005387477757_578173860_n.jpg[/img] Tech stemming and power laybacking will get you up this one, but I have no idea how you're supposed to do the 5.12 mantel right below the chains. Sky pulled on gear, and I did some ridiculous mantel/layback/palming weirdness following and made it, but probably would not want to lead it that way. Yikes! Scary and hard! me following p.4 [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/402866_10151005392607757_300810473_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/422809_10151005394117757_1949106683_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/551942_10151005394332757_53749277_n.jpg[/img] nearing the dreaded mantel [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/s720x720/264056_10151005394462757_1597983340_n.jpg[/img] The fifth pitch is a trick 5.12 campus traverse with virtually no feet for the first several moves. It does relent a bit towards the end...but not much....SICK pitch with ridiculous exposure! me leading [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/564288_10151005394622757_180855989_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/267372_10151005394707757_806136278_n.jpg[/img] Sky following [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/488354_10151005395617757_56900201_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/305078_10151005395822757_1018759051_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/643967_10151005395942757_1493446207_n.jpg[/img] pitch 6 offers a bit of respite, a 5.8 slab traverse across and then down to the anchors below the "Book of Deception". Sky leading across the slab. [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/387158_10151005396082757_1861863456_n.jpg[/img] Me following [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/199250_10151005396292757_1166456725_n.jpg[/img] I cannot even describe the mix of thoughts going through my head when I first saw this looming above the sloping ledge. [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/530104_10151005396887757_923328055_n.jpg[/img] From the belay it looks like it isn't that steep, almost like it lays back from you...yes it's deceiving indeed, as it is vertical to overhanging...and very very thin and flaring. Quite more than I could hope to onsight. I gave it what I had, and it still beat me down. A beautiful unrelenting pitch that one day I will come back to climb clean. This time it went at 5.12 C0 for me...I can live with that as a first go. Ridiculous stemming, palming, smearing, and desperate tips laybacks will only be part of what you need on this pitch. Simply awesome! Giving it what I got mid-way up the pitch [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/383985_10151005398002757_1278951563_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/578493_10151005398057757_813104698_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/303656_10151005398102757_833070686_n.jpg[/img] Sky on the Book of Deception [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/s720x720/423677_10151005399472757_923119320_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/260038_10151005399642757_1486332147_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/s720x720/250736_10151005399742757_902640006_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/377740_10151005399912757_2061094061_n.jpg[/img] Pitch 8 is quite possibly the most sandbagged 5.11 anywhere. Some topos have it at 11b, some at 11d...I like to say 5.11+++++. It's hard and funky, and really really cool. Looking up at the pitch after Sky's lead. [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/296754_10151005399992757_447963464_n.jpg[/img] Following [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/296326_10151005401082757_2059152862_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/564660_10151005401207757_2015344655_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/419189_10151005401332757_1756651146_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/423936_10151005401442757_1073672312_n.jpg[/img] The last pitch has some funky 5.10 face moves before pulling around an arete and onto a lower angled and very chicken head juggy face...a fine fun way to finish! [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/551935_10151005401672757_511876819_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/386281_10151005402452757_147137284_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/223964_10151005402567757_475679451_n.jpg[/img] A bit of summit hopping leads to the top of the Warlock [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/267264_10151005401767757_1752369802_n.jpg[/img] And a fine view from the summit [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/557268_10151005401857757_861695578_n.jpg[/img] Can't really say much else about this route. It's stunning, hard and sustained and absolutely incredible. I'm sure Sky will add his much more eloquently and entertainingly written trip report here at Ski Sickness

Trip: The Needles - Don Juan Wall Date: 7/27/2012 Trip Report: I just had to go back...the climbing is too good! I love the Needles! [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/319366_10150924408607757_1029782228_n.jpg[/img] Trish was all envious that I went back to the Needles...so we made plans to head back together. A quick trip, we only had two days to climb, but made the most of it. The first day we climbed a sweet little had crack called Sleight of Hand, a rope stretching 10a) [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/558299_10150924409072757_1342842045_n.jpg[/img] Then I took Trish up her first 5.11, a really thin corner called The Raven (11b) Trish stoked on her fist 11 [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/562720_10150924404257757_851415098_n.jpg[/img] To finish off the day we did Gem Stone, a fun arete layback on Charlatan. After that, we had lunch on the summit, stashed our gear and hiked back to camp for cold beers and some relaxation. The next day we hopped on the Don Juan Wall (5p. 11b)...one of the classics in the Needles. The first pitch follows Thin Ice for about 30' before moving left on a huge flake/ledge thingy. [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/s720x720/382372_10150826783372757_1326907210_n.jpg[/img] The second pitch climbs a steep funky corner and then over a bulge via some nicely flaring off fingers jams. Looking up the second pitch [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/s720x720/539076_10150924407557757_1362531450_n.jpg[/img] Almost to the crux [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/483161_10150924409392757_1476092919_n.jpg[/img] Over the crux...whew! [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/524124_10150924409492757_1148242819_n.jpg[/img] Trish following [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/527044_10150924405232757_736012067_n.jpg[/img] Looking up the third pitch...a classic Needles v-slot...very strenuous [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/488075_10150924404772757_106897848_n.jpg[/img] One of the only moments of reprieve on the whole climb [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/481986_10150924409582757_156782770_n.jpg[/img] Trish in the slot [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/530184_10150924405987757_700191387_n.jpg[/img] Lovin' it! [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/557521_10150924406107757_1817695218_n.jpg[/img] Looking up...yep...another steep, THIN, Needles corner..sooo good! [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/391466_10150924405837757_1879741021_n.jpg[/img] Trish exiting to where the angle finally relents a bit [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/578771_10150924406237757_847895358_n.jpg[/img] Taking a break [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/564494_10150924406382757_2123332792_n.jpg[/img] The last pitch climbs a burly roof via physical undercling and laybacking around the roof, changes corners and climbs a sweet finger crack to the awesome summit of the Sorcerer Trish topping out. [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/376751_10150924406612757_1341912470_n.jpg[/img] Stoked! [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/207537_10150924406792757_1665299386_n.jpg[/img] I had heard so much about this climb and how good it is...and it is indeed very good...but maybe my expectation was too high going in, but I though that both The Entity and Spook Book over on the Witch were better, more interesting climbs. Don Juan is more continuously difficult and more strenuous for sure, but I found that the quality of climbing was below what I found on those other two Needles uber-classics. Just my $0.02 Gear Notes: typical Needles rack: multiples from ultra micro brass-#2Camalot Approach Notes: 3 miles along easy ridge, a bit of scrambling

Trip: The Needles - Spook Book Date: 7/16/2012 Trip Report: Well, I didn't get enough of the Needles on my first trip there, so I had to go back. I had been talking up the routes there to Jason, so he was keen to come on down and see what I was blabbering on about. He flew in to San Diego Sunday morning and we made the long drive up to the Needles that afternoon. Having not climbed really at all since he was in J-Tree in March, Jason was stoked to hop on something easy to get reacquainted with the rock, so the first thing we got on was Airy Interlude. I had climbed it a few weeks prior so Jason got both leads. Super fun...again. Satisfied that he could still climb after a long layoff, we got on Wailing Banshees (4p. 11b), which climbs a long left facing corner on the Sorcerer. I combined the first two pitches, and after much bird and bat shit, and some crap rock thrown in, we decided to find something better to climb. So, we headed over to Bad Fortune (2p. 11c)...yet another steep thin Needles corner. Techy stemming and some fun face moves were the goods on this one...good fun. Then next day we set off on Spook Book (5p. 10dR). One of the Needles more notorious and sandbagged routes. While the climbing is never difficult, it is definitely heady and devious with committing moves way out over fiddly small gear. Looking up the first pitch [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/s720x720/480089_10150883047027757_560991778_n.jpg[/img] First pitch is heady, as you will hit the sloping ledge if you botch the step up move onto a small knob to reach a high bolt. Not a particularly difficult move, just dont blow it. The rest of the pitch is fun climbing on steep slab and some cracks here and there. Jason following [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/560939_10150883047847757_315847741_n.jpg[/img] Looking up the second pitch [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/179163_10150883047652757_1868789289_n.jpg[/img] Pitch two follows a thin corner, over an overlap, and up into another corner. Tricky small gear, and fun moves on this one. Near the top, the corner pinches shut and instead of going the correct way...unbeknownst to me at the time...I continued with some desperate smearing and stemming up the blank corner...until I whipped...pulling a tiny cam and two miniature pieces of brass until a bomber placement finally held. hahaha...good times! After another try, Jason finally decided to point out my folly at continuing up the corner, and we finally dispatched of that pitch. Yet another stellar Needles corner on the Spook Book [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/402778_10150883048447757_354414498_n.jpg[/img] More sweet splitter corner cracks followed, this time going much easier...although graded harder...I suppose actually following the route helps. Jason loving the goods [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/399485_10150883048972757_548508581_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/534575_10150883049252757_1926988159_n.jpg[/img] Stellar climb! Definitely will be back for more! Sorcerer standing proud [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/426916_10150883048287757_415759888_n.jpg[/img] Gear Notes: multiples, micro-#2camalot Approach Notes: 3miles along an easy ridge, a bit of scrambling

Trip: The Needles - several Date: 6/3/2012 Trip Report: well, I mostly just lounge on the beach waiting for the surf to get good...but occasionally I do get out for a climb or two. This was one such occasion... The Needles are a cluster of granite spires in the southern Sierra, and they hold an insane amount of steep granite split by perfect crack systems. I had wanted to visit this area for quite a while and finally made it...and it blew my mind! Yes...it's as good as it looks We arrived late at night on Saturday and so anticipation was high along the approach in the morning. An ominous fire looms in the valley below Fortunately the wind was favorable and blew the fire up and over the ridge to the north.... After 2 1/2 miles you come to your first view of the needles and the site of the former lookout that burned down last summer...ironic, no? stairs to nowhere anyhow...on to the climbing. Trish has only been climbing since last August, but she is gung ho to try just about anything, and so was stoked to hop on Airy Interlude, a super classic 5.10 on the Witch. Trish pointing to the namesake airy traverse between splitter crack systems Up pitch 1 Start of p2 Out on the traverse The traverse is a sweet thin hands/fingers and big exposure and super fun! Trish following the traverse The climb finishes up a nice corner to the summit. Afterwards we hiked over to the summit of the Charlatan and after a couple of double rope raps were at the base of Fancy Free, another splitter needles classic! Looking up the E face of Charlatan...Fancy Free goes basically straight up the center of the photo to the top p1 Trish following Trish on the perfect fingers corner on p2 Our Lady of the Needles with the fire burning away in the distance Satisfied with our introduction to the Needles to say the least! Under normal circumstances one would stash their gear so as to not have to carry it back and forth to camp every day, but with a large wildfire looming fairly close and with heavy winds daily in the Needles we figured the prudent thing to do would be to carry our gear out to camp...just in case. Fortunately the winds stayed favorable, as far as we were concerned anyhow, and the fire continued to burn to the north. We had a lazy morning our second day before mosying back up the trail, this time to the intimidating E face of the Sorcerer and the plumb line straight from bottom to top Thin Ice. Sorry if this is the same pic as above...but it's just too beautiful Up p1...a 55m splitter straight up the vertical face P2 climbs this intense v-slot....fun but uber strenuous Trish happily out of the v-slot, and near the summit Climbers directly across the cirque on Igor Unchained Trish finishing p2 Climber on Airy Interlude This gal was gettin funky on the airy traverse Witch from the summit of Sorcerer The weather was moving in so after topping out on Thin Ice, we decided to head back to camp. Fierce winds and a bit of rain overnight had us apprehensive of our prospects for the morning, but fortunately the day dawned calm and clear. We decided to hop on The Entity, another Needles classic and a heady lead for sure Spicy, delicate climbing way above tiny gear, and at one point and ancient rusty old 1/4"er Up p1 Just another insane needles splitter fingers corner to an arching finger crack up the steep face on p2 Back to back thin steep finger crack pitches are the meat of this climb....so good! The climb finishes on an airy but juggy roof with huge air! For our last day we opted for something quick and mellow, so we chose Spooky, a super fun 5.9 up the se corner of the Charlatan. Spooky comes complete with...ho hum....another splitter corner crack, a spicy offwidth, and some fun jug hauling up a steep face to the summit. Looking up Spooky Very satisfied after a first introduction to The Needles...and thirsty for more!

Yeah Eric, the NE couloir on Dragontail is a sweet ski. Steep and tight. I skied from the rocks that choke the couloir up near the top. In a big snow year it's prob skiable from the top, or with a little air over the rocks. Have fun!

Nice work guys! Was wondering when someone would ski that line....when Jason and I went back in there to ski it way back when we got shut down on the approach trying to get to the base of the face from a little notch on the lower e ridge. Looks like that little traverse there is the crux of the route for sure. Sick ski!

sweet Dan! I'm glad someone finally got back in there with skis! cool spot huh?

yeah, I'd be into that. where you living at these days? give me a shout sometime this weekend if you want to get out to D-Town on Tues 206-819-1537

Long moderate on Tuesday? 9's and 10's Maybe Silent Running and Total Soul? Dark Rhythm? Rainman?

I'm in for climbing anywhere Tuesday and Thursday. Can lead or follow or whatever. Give a call and lets get out on the rock Ross 206-819-1537

sheesh....no takers? ok, how about somewhere more local? weather looks good!

Who wants to head up to Squamish for a little fun Mon and Tue? Ross

surely someone has a pic from up there?

Anyone have some?

Yeah this is the one cool stuff. That was pretty funny with Rob....good times. Lots of cool skiing going on...nice to see people gettin after it ...back to the beach for me

I thought I saw a helmet-cam video of someone skiing it, not sure where I saw the video though pretty rad

ahhhhh, Acid Baby! Man, Solid Gold looks sweet

Sweet! Nice ski guys good to see more skiers being drawn to that classic route. Hopefully one day someone will be able to ski continuously through the runnels section that would fuk'n one note: You guys missed the best, and most exhilarating skiing of the route however, which the transition between the third and middle couloirs, and the middle couloir itself! yeeeehaawwwww ....although, that bit out on the north face looks pretty cool too

Anyone looking for or know someone who is looking for a roommate? I'm currently looking for a place for the next several months. Thanks Ross

5 BD Express and Turbo ice screws for sale...most are the express Various sizes. $30/each most never used. cheers Ross

Used, but in great condition $45