HarryMajors

There are two "Mt. Fernow" peaks in the North Cascades, as well as a third mountain "Big Chief Mtn." --- all three of which honor the same person. Mt. Fernow 9249' (Holden quad) is the third highest non-volcanic peak in the Cascades, (after Bonanza 9511' and Mt. Stuart 9415'). Albert H. "Hal" Sylvester, then supervisor of Wenatchee National Forest, named this peak within 1922-1928. Mt. Fernow 6190' (Captain Point quad, west of Stevens Pass) was named by the Skykomish Ranger District within 1925-1927. Big Chief Mtn. 5858' (Stevens Pass quad) was originally named "Mount Fernow" within 1936-1941 by Wenatchee National Forest (after Sylvester's retirement). However, this peak was soon renamed "Big Chief Mountain" within 1941-1947, because there already were two other Mt. Fernow(s) in the North Cascades. The peak nonetheless still honors Fernow, this time in his guise as the "Big Chief" of the Forest Service. The Prussian forester Bernhard Eduard Fernow (1851-1923) served as Chief of the Division of Forestry of the U. S. Department of Forestry during 1886-1898; this Division was the predecessor of the present-day Forest Service. Fernow is regarded as the first professional forester in North America, whose conservation efforts led directly to the establishment of the National Forests. When he left government service in 1898, his place as Chief of Forestry was taken by Gifford Pinchot. Fernow also established the first School of Forestry in North America, in 1898 at Cornell University. In 1908 he moved to Canada, where that same year he established the School of Forestry at the University of Toronto. He is the only individual after whom three mountains have been named in the Cascade Range. (Early explorer Abiel Tinkham has two peaks named after him, immediately south of Snoqualmie Pass.) Correctly pronounced, auf Deutsch, the name Fernow would be rendered in English as "fair-nov" (the "f" as in fine; the "e" is a Latin "e" or long English "a" as in "care, fair"; the "o" is in "not"; and the German "w" is as an English "v" as in "vision"), with the accent on the first syllable. Fernow served as a soldier during the Franco-Prussian War in 1870; he was an accomplished pianist who was particularly fond of the Beethoven piano sonatas; and he came to America because he met and became engaged to a young American lady while he was studying Forestry in Germany. He is the subject of a full-length biography by Andrew Denny Rodgers, "Bernhard Eduard Fernow, A Story of North American Forestry" (1951, Princeton University Press, 623pp.; reprinted 1991, Forest History Society).

Lowell, Brian, and Ursa_Eagle are indeed all correct --- Mt. Goode is pronounced as "good" (the final "e" is silent). Richard Urquhart Goode (1858-1903) was one of the first topographers appointed to the newly created U. S. Geological Survey in July 1879. He served as Chief of the Pacific Division of Topography during 1894-1903, during which time he presided over USGS mapping efforts in the Cascade Range and the Sierra Nevada. (At the bottom left corner of all those epochal 1:125,000 quads, the words "R. U. Goode, Geographer in charge" appear.) Were it not for his premature passing from pneumonia in 1903, he likely would have become Chief of the Topographic Branch of the USGS that year at Washington, D.C. Although Goode himself did not personally participate in the actual fieldwork, he was the immediate supervisor of the USGS topographers who mapped the original 30-minute quadrangles of the North Cascades during 1895-1902 --- arguably the single greatest geographical and exploratory achievement in the history of the North Cascades. These intrepid topographers made numerous first ascents of peaks in this region (including Glacier Peak), and they were the first to record most of its geographic features. Among other achievements, they are the first known persons to have explored the Snowking area and the Ptarmigan Traverse. Although the details of the introduction of the name "Mt. Goode" in the North Cascades have yet to be clarified, I suspect that Albert H. Sylvester bestowed this toponym sometime during 1918-1922, and that he initially intended that it be applied to the mountain now known as Bonanza Peak. Mt. Goode is the highest peak in the Cascades that honors a person who has personally visited this Range, as well as the highest peak honoring a person who has actually climbed a mountain in this Range. --- On August 7, 1883, Richard U. Goode and topographer Frank Tweedy made the second or third ascent of Mt. Stuart. (Two days earlier, on August 5, 1883, Tweedy (of Lewisia fame) made a solo ascent of Mt. Stuart, this being the first or second ascent of that peak on record.) Both ascents approached via Peshastin and Ingalls creeks. In an article on "Naming Alaska's mountains" (1959 American Alpine Journal, pp. 211-232), mountaineering historian Francis P. Farquhar confirms the correct pronunciation of Mt. Goode (pp. 221-222) --- "Also named for him [besides Mount Goode 10,610' in Alaska, east of Anchorage] is a peak [13,085'] in the Sierra Nevada, California, and one in the Cascades. In the latter case there is a local tendency to call the peak "Mount Goody"; perhaps the following will help to overcome it: "A surveyor named Richard U. Goode Left bench marks wherever he stood. The old English word goode 'Tis true rhymes with Buddha, But in this case Mount Goode rhymes with Hood."

Stefan --- To my knowledge, there have been no recorded Native American stories or legends pertaining to the Mt. Index massif, or the nearby Baring-Gunn group of peaks. This is not to say that none ever existed --- only that apparently none have ever been recorded. Mt. Index is situated within the territory of the Skykomish (Skai-wha-mish, Skihwamish), who were closely related to the Snohomish. One of the best ethnological reports on this latter group of peoples is that which appeared in 1953 by Colin E. Tweddell, "A historical and ethnological study of the Snohomish Indian people" (216pp.; Seattle, 1953). At one time, there was a Skykomish village situated at or near the present town of Index (p. 178), and it "was from here that the hunters went into the Cascades for mountain goat and other game, mountain blueberries, etc." (p. 178). It was said that "The Index people . . . would go way over Three Sisters Peak beyond Baring (Mountain) and back to Index in one day picking berries" (p. 114). The name of the village at the present-day town of Index was xa'xausalt, derived from the native term for the saw-bill or merganser duck (pp. 150, 178). Regrettably, unlike Nels Bruseth who recorded the Stillaguamish/Sauk account about the legend and names of Three Fingers, Whitehorse, and Mt. Higgins (the Ska-dulgwas story), the local legends of the Skykomish peoples are not known to have been written down. There are a couple of Native American stories associated with High Rock, just outside of Monroe (Tweddell, p. 69). If a legend or two was connected with so small a feature as High Rock, it is not unreasonable to conjecture that legends were also associated with such larger and more prominent peaks as Mt. Index, Mt. Baring, and Gunn Peak. Unfortunately, none are known to have been recorded.

Bug --- About the year 1990, when I first came across his name, I did make a brief effort to locate Frank Hill ; but I was unable to track him down. Assuming that, as a Boy Scout, Frank was close to 15 years old in 1927 (born about 1912), this would put his age at about 92 today. It is possible that he may still be alive today, in which case he would have a story of epic proportions to tell us. However, I just did a check of the on-line Social Security Death Index, and find that there is a "Frank Hill" listed for Washington State, who was born on Dec. 29, 1911, and who died in July 1978.

tomtom --- With respect to Lionel's cairn --- There are only two recorded accounts of the cairn that Lionel Chute left at the false summit of North Index on Aug. 7, 1927: In his letter to me of Jan. 12, 1973, Lionel mentioned that --- "We found some scrub trees on top [of the false summit]. We built a two-foot rock cairn, stood a tree in it on which we tied a small flag. We put a waterproof matchbox with names and date in the cairn." In the 10-page narrative which Dr. Otto Trott gave me in 1973, describing his 1940 ascent of North Index (as well as his 1939 Hanging Glacier ascent on Mt. Shuksan), Lionel's cairn is described somewhat differently --- "It was possible to proceed upwards towards the peak by holding to the north side of the western ridge until we came to the [false] summit, where we found an old stick placed into a can. This fact alone proved beyond any doubt that Lionel Chute and G. Tepl[e]y definitely had been there in 1929. . . . We climbed only to the summit of the north face [the false summit] and that's where the stick of Lionel Chute was embedded in the can." There is some discrepancy here in the description of what actually was present at the site of the cairn. However, in speaking with pioneer climbers, who were attempting to recall events that had taken place from 30 to 50 years earlier, I found that such lapses of memory were not that uncommon. The amazing thing is that, after so many years and so many ascents, some of these climbers were able to recall as much as they did. Dr. Trott further states that --- "Later on, I had personal discussions with Mr. Chute, and his description of the climb corroborated ours to such an extent that there is no doubt about it that he has been the one who made the first ascent. . . . This is the extent of my recollections of this climb, which I view as a confirmation of the achievement of Chute and Tepley." This, at present, marks the last recorded reference in recorded history to Lionel Chute's cairn at the false summit of North Index. A review of my files and the published literature on Mt. Index reveals no further mention of the cairn. The third party to successfully climb the North Face of North Index (and the first to make the first complete ascent of the North Peak), that of Fred and Helmy Beckey on July 1, 1945, makes no reference to any cairn --- "we followed a ridge over several false summits to the top" (1946 Mtnr. p. 44); "over several false summits to the top" (1946 AAJ p. 43). Lionel read Fred's account, appearing in the Dec. 1946 Mountaineer annual, and remarked to me --- "Beckey didn't report finding our cairn, so I guess the snows must have destroyed it." The two-foot high cairn, or vestiges thereof, may actually still be there. It may, in fact, already have been seen by some climbers, who were unaware of its significance. At that point during the ascent, most climbers are intent on reaching the true highest summit, and disinclined to linger at or scrutinize the false summit. Unless one was actually conscious of its importance in the first-ascent history of North Index, the presence of a small pile of rubble at the false summit would not likely appear as something worthy of notice. If the tree/stick had survived in place, from 1927 to 1940, it is possible that remnants of the rock cairn may have lasted even longer. The first false summit is not really subject to significant disturbance by avalanche activity from above. Moreover, once the winter snows had begun, whatever snowpack that might have built up at the relatively level false summit would have served to protect the cairn (this may have helped protect the stick/tree during 1927-1940). Although the most likely location for the 1927 cairn would be at the top of the first false summit, a thorough search would include the area from the top of the North Face across both the first and second false summits.

But the exact date of the Lionel Chute ascent still eluded me. To confuse matters further, Ome Daiber had told me that, from what he had learned at the time (through the Scout grapevine), Chute's companion on the successful ascent of North Index had been Gordon Knott, not George Tepley or Victor Kaartinen. It was not until about 1990, while going through past issues of The Everett Daily Herald, searching for material on the history of the Monte Cristo area, that I came across it --- "First peak on Mt. Index is conquered," appearing on page 11 of the issue for August 9, 1927. The article was based upon a letter that Lionel Chute himself had written immediately after the climb. So Lionel Chute had been off by two years. And his companion was not George Tepley (who did climb with him on The Brothers), nor Victor Kaartinen, nor Gordon Knott --- instead, it was "Frank Hill, Eagle scout of troop 263." The two, along with Scout Dan Boone, camped at Lake Serene the previous evening. At 6 a.m. the next morning (August 7, 1927), Chute and Hill set out on their climb of North Index, leaving Boone at camp to keep an eye out for their safe return. The climb was done in "twelve hours," thus theirs was the first climb of North Index without a bivouac. Chute and Hill "arrived on top at 2 o'clock in the afternoon" and then "arrived back at the lake at 6 o'clock." Chute mentions in the article that "It is an exceedingly dangerous climb often only a thin root to prevent a 1,000 foot fall . . . . Pictures were taken along the way and from the top." Lionel Chute had been mistaken, not only about the date of the North Index ascent, but even as to the name of his companion. But then, this was an event that had occurred 46 years previously, and which had involved four different attempts; so a lapse in memory is understandable. The first Grade III climb in the North Cascades --- indeed, one of the most difficult rock climbs anywhere in North America at the time. At the time, Lionel Chute was 24 years old, and with no formal mountaineering training. It speaks highly for his courage, his climbing expertise, and his dedication (and that of his companions) that he persevered through four attempts on North Index, over a period of two years, and finally succeeded in conquering the difficult north face --- with no specialized climbing boots, no pitons for protection, a companion with minimal climbing experience, and only a 40-foot length of nearly severed rope. Interestingly enough, it was Chute's early climbing experience in the eastern Olympic Mountains that likely enabled him to climb the North Peak of Mount Index. There exists no granitic bedrock in the Olympics. The rugged mountains of the eastern Olympics are eroded from the Crescent Formation, largely a series of submarine volcanic basalts. These form the bedrock of such peaks as Mount Constance and The Brothers, on which Lionel Chute first learned to climb. As such, Lionel was well prepared for the climbing problems he might encounter on the volcanic rock of North Index. Had Lionel's prior climbing experience been exclusively on granitic rock, the problems he faced on North Index would likely have been significantly more formidable. So, for the North Peak of Mount Index, the early successful climbing history is: Aug. 7, 1927 --- First successful ascent of the north face, to the first false summit of North Index, by Lionel H. Chute and Frank Hill. 1940 --- Second successful ascent of the north face, to the first false summit of North Index, by Dr. Otto T. Trott and Erick Larson. July 1, 1945 --- Third successful ascent of the north face, and the first complete ascent of North Index, by Fred and Helmy Beckey. Fred and Helmy Beckey thus have another first ascent of a major peak in the North Cascades to their credit. Until now, the 1945 party have been unaware as to the incomplete nature of the 1927 and 1940 ascents. The revision of first ascents by pre-dating is not that uncommon in the North Cascades, particularly in areas where the USGS and Lage Wernstedt mapped, or where early miners and prospectors explored. Silver Star and Mt. Pilchuck are examples where a first ascent has had to be pre-dated. However, at present there are only two instances where a first ascent has been revised by post-dating, both of which involve situations where a previous incomplete ascent has had to yield precedence to a later complete first ascent: Mount Rainier, where Emmons and Wilson in October 1870 made the first complete ascent to Columbia Crest (Stevens and Van Trump in August 1870 did not reach the summit of Columbia Crest, but that is another story); and the North Peak of Mount Index. But there still remained one question --- why did Dr. Trott and Erick Larson not continue on, to climb the principal and highest summit of North Index? They had the time, as they had already bivouaced at a point about two-thirds up the north face. Moreover, compared to the difficulties encountered on the north face (getting into and out of the mid-face bowl/basin), climbing the true summit is relatively easy. It lay well within the skill of Dr. Trott, who had "a notable climbing career throughout the Dolomites and other parts of the Tyrolian Alps, the Oetztaler, St. Gotthard, and Kaiser groups; altogether over 100 ascents in difficulties from 'difficult' to 'extremely difficult--lower limit' (European Classification)" (1952 Mtnr. p. 23). When I was preparing the account of Lionel Chute's first ascent for publication in "Exploring Washington," I sent advance copies of the climb description to both Lionel and Dr. Trott for review. Both approved of the account. I spoke with Lionel Chute on the phone; but since Dr. Trott's office was within walking distance of my home, I decided to visit with him in person. After Dr. Trott read the copy, he replied: "That is correct. Lionel and I climbed to the top of the north face, but not to the highest summit." I then asked (discreetly, and with circumspection) if, in 1940, the highest summit appeared as if it might have offered any technical difficulties. The good doctor then replied, "No. We could have climbed it, but we decided not to. That was not our purpose. Our purpose was to confirm Lionel's ascent, not take it away from him." Dr. Trott was an honest and honorable man. In all the annals of Northwest mountaineering history, rarely has there been a statement as noble-minded as this. (Appreciation: John Roper, Lowell Skoog, and Paul Klenke were kind enough to review this essay in advance. Matt Perkins graciously came to my assistance when, at one point, I found myself unable to proceed any further in this matter. Paul, in particular, offered suggestions that significantly enhanced the readability of the text. Their kind assistance is gratefully acknowledged. However, I myself am solely and entirely responsible for any errors of fact, interpretation, or omission. I think John will agree with me that the younger generation of North Cascades climbers has several highly promising and worthy scholars in their midst. It is reassuring to us older scholars to know that the future of North Cascades climbing history is in very capable hands.) (A more detailed account of North Index, including an analysis of the early routes, along with further information on the 1937 accident/rescue and subsequent ascents, will appear in a forthcoming history of climbing in the North Cascades. Because it will still be many years before this history is actually completed and published, I feel it to be in the interest of the Northwest mountaineering community to release some of this information in advance, as has been done here.)

In December 1972, I met with Dr. Trott, and mentioned to him that I was interested in contacting Lionel Chute concerning his ascent of North Index. I had determined Chute's current address --- but because this was so important an individual in North Cascades climbing history, I thought it best to approach Chute through a mutually known intermediary. Lionel was a bit sensitive about his North Index ascent, largely because his climb had for many years been met with disbelief. He had also been censured by Scout leaders for involving the Boy Scouts in so hazardous an enterprise. Instead of being greeted with acclaim for achieving what had been the most difficult climb yet performed in the Northwest, Lionel Chute met with disbelief and censure. Northwest mountaineers, who were in a position to appreciate the magnitude of Chute's achievement, did not believe that the climb had taken place. Boy Scout administrators, on the other hand, did believe that the climb had taken place --- but instead of properly appreciating Chute's achievement, they reprimanded him for what they felt had been a reckless deed. Dr. Trott had known Lionel Chute for over thirty years. In fact, Dr. Trott had spoken with Lionel immediately after the 1940 ascent, and the two had compared accounts of their respective climbs. It was Dr. Trott who had verified the authenticity of Lionel Chute's first ascent; and because of this, Lionel thought very highly of Dr. Trott. The good doctor told me that he would give Lionel a call and recommend that he speak with me; after that, I could then send Lionel a letter of inquiry. As a direct result of this, in January 1973 I received a detailed 2-page letter from Lionel Chute, describing the North Index climb. Some time thereafter, I again contacted Lionel Chute to see if he would consent to a tape-recorded interview. He agreed to meet with me at his West Seattle home, but on a private basis, as he preferred that the meeting not be tape-recorded. I agreed to this, and then arranged for an afternoon on which to visit with him. I met with Lionel, and he described to me the details of his North Index ascent, as have been presented above. At first, Lionel was a bit shy, but when I mentioned to him that my own father had been a Scoutmaster during the 1930s, Lionel immediately warmed up. His years with the Boy Scouts had been the happiest and most important of his life. On the walls of his living room were several photographs depicting various Scout gatherings and activities in the Olympic Mountains. To some extent, Lionel was still living in the past. The Boy Scouts had been the most significant influence on his life; and his ascent of North Index with the Scouts had been his one moment of glory. I was surprised to learn that Lionel had taken photographs during the North Index ascent. He had, in fact, on a shelf in his living room about twelve photo albums taken during various trips and climbs in the Cascade and Olympic Mountains. He showed me several photographs that he had taken during the North Index ascent. Although I myself have never climbed North Index, I knew several individuals that had, and I previously had seen photographs that were taken high on that peak. A couple of the photographs Lionel showed me I recognized as having been taken from a great height, looking down toward the lake outlet and the forested lower north ridge of the North Peak. Narrow ledges, great exposure, brush, the central basin or bowl, the wooded ridge far below --- there was no doubt in my mind that Lionel had taken these photographs high on the north face of North Index. (I suggested to Lionel that he might consider eventually donating his photo albums to the University of Washington Library. He replied that he would think about it and let me know. I followed up with a letter several months later; but at that point he had decided to keep the albums for the time being. I kept in touch with Lionel for over a decade, occasionally reminding him about the University Library, but then lost contact with him during the mid-1980s. I recently learned that he passed away in 1992. The present disposition of his photo albums is unknown. As with the Ptarmigan Club scrapbook and Lage Wernstedt's records, Lionel Chute's photograph albums constitute one of the most important historical records of Northwest mountaineering. I suspect that they hold a number of surprises in them, such as a winter ascent of Mount Rainier, a climb up the northeast glacier on Whitehorse, and a number of hitherto unknown first ascents in the Olympics. Hopefully, one of these days Lionel's albums will come to light, and find a safe and permanent home in a library.) One of Lionel Chute's photographs caught my eye: this one particularly intrigued me. It had been taken on top of the North Peak of Mount Index, but not at the true highest summit. The photograph was shot looking toward the main summit ridge of Mount Index --- but at the right edge of the picture there was a portion of a nearby peak, higher than the point from which the photograph was taken. My initial guess was that the photograph had been taken at the first "false summit," and that the nearby higher promontory was the principal summit of the North Peak. (Although the Middle Peak of Index rises to a slightly greater elevation than the North Peak, the nearby higher peak present in the photograph was too close to the viewer (and lacking a deep separating gap) to have been the Middle Peak. There were no photographs that looked like they may have been taken from the true highest summit of North Index.) I inquired, to the effect of "Did you climb any farther than here?" or "Did you go beyond here?" (indicating the point from where the photograph had been taken). His reply was "No. We didn't go beyond here. It kept getting higher and higher. We had to get back down before dark" My tentative conclusion was that Lionel Chute did not reach the highest and principal summit of North Index. He turned back at the first false summit, situated at the top of the north face. Beyond here, the summit ridge levels off a bit, with a dip or two, followed by a second false summit of nearly the same height, beyond which a steep climb up a rocky prominence leads to the principal summit of the North Peak. I did not pursue this topic with Lionel, nor did I mention to him my tentative conclusion. I knew that, prior to Dr. Trott's confirmatory climb of 1940, the Lionel Chute ascent had been met with over a decade of disbelief, and that he was still a bit sensitive about this. I did not feel this would have been the proper time to bring to his attention that his climb of North Index appeared to have been an incomplete one. Lionel had been kind enough to invite me to his home to discuss his ascent of North Index. I was not about to infringe upon his hospitality by openly questioning the completeness of his ascent. This is something I first needed to discuss with Dr. Trott. I again met with Dr. Trott, and he confirmed my conclusion: Lionel Chute did not climb to the highest true summit of North Index. He only reached the first false summit. I then discussed with Dr. Trott the details of his own 1940 ascent of North Index --- and, in particular, as to exactly where he had found the evidence of Chute's previous ascent. Dr. Trott then related to me his account of the 1940 climb, and described where he had found the "tin can" and "stick" left by Lionel Chute. Dr. Trott emphasized very clearly that: (a) the can and stick were found at the first false summit; (b) Lionel Chute had told him that they had not gone any father than the first false summit; and © Dr. Trott and Erick Larson themselves, in 1940, had not climbed any farther than the first false summit. They had found the evidence which confirmed that Lionel Chute had indeed climbed the north face of North Index --- at which point Dr. Trott and Erick Larson turned around and began their return descent. Dr. Trott then graciously offered to write down and send me a detailed description of both his Mount Shuksan (Hanging Glacier) and his North Index climbs. Shortly thereafter, Dr. Trott stopped by my home late one afternoon after office hours, and presented me with a typescript describing his 1939 ascent of the Hanging Glacier on Mount Shuksan, along with his 1940 ascent of North Index. We talked for awhile about the early days of climbing in the Northwest (I learned that Sigurd Hall had been with Dr. Trott during his first attempt on North Index), and then the good doctor took his leave. That evening, I went through the typescript, wherein Dr. Trott describes in marvelous detail his Hanging Glacier and North Index climbs. In his final paragraph on the North Index ascent, Dr. Trott mentions: "the false summit. I believe we reached the northern face summit. Whether the easy stretch to the next summit would be called the actual summit of the north face I do not remember, but if it should be, the difficult stuff is all before you reach that part. We climbed only to the summit of the north face and that's where the stick of Lionel Chute was embedded in the can." This is why, when "Exploring Washington" was published in 1975, I wrote that "the two [Chute and his companion] soon reached the top of the north face. Here they piled up a two-foot cairn of rocks." I did not specify that they reached the summit of the North Peak of Mount Index. I only stated that they "reached the top of the north face." During the past 28 years, only one person --- Dr. Trott himself --- has picked up on this distinction. (Conclusion to follow.)

For nearly 80 years, the first ascent of the North Peak of Mount Index has been shrouded in mystery and uncertainty. I would like to share with cc.com readers information concerning the first ascent of this peak, some details of which are being revealed here for the first time in nearly 80 years. For years, the accepted paradigm concerning North Index has been: "The first ascent was made some 16 years ago by L. Chute and two others" (1946 Mtnr. p. 44; 1945 AAJ, p. 43). The 1949 guide clarified this slightly: "First ascent 1929 by L. Chute, G. Tepley, and companion" (1949 guide p. 78). Even so late as 1973, when the first edition of CAG-1 appeared, the standard story was still: "Lionel Chute, G. Tepley and (possibly) a companion reached the top in the summer of 1929. Apparently Chute's verbal account was not widely accepted (no printed report can be found) . . . . In 1939 [sic, 1940] Otto Trott and Erick Larson reached the summit and found proof that Chute and party had, indeed, made the first ascent." (CAG-1, 1973 ed., p. 230). In 1975, for the first time in nearly 50 years, new and substantial information concerning Lionel Chute's ascent appeared in "Exploring Washington" (p. 87, item 79). Because this book is not readily accessible, the North Index account is herewith quoted in its entirely. This first complete account of the Lionel Chute ascent is derived from an interview between Lionel Chute and myself, held in 1973 at Chute's home in West Seattle, as well as from written correspondence: "The impressive north peak (5,357 ft.) of MOUNT INDEX (5,979 ft.) was first climbed about 1929 by scoutmaster Lionel H. Chute and scout Victor Kaartinen of Seattle Boy Scout troop 263. The route followed was identical to the standard route used today on the north face. Chute made four attempts to scale this formidable peak over a period of two years. "On the first attempt, with three or four other scouts, they succeeded in reaching the top of the midface snow/brush basin where sheer cliffs turned them back. They managed to leave a white undershirt tied to a pole, at their highest point, which was visible from the town of Index when viewed through binoculars. "On the second attempt Chute veered eastward across the face, but was again turned back. "On the third try, Chute and scout Dan Boone got part way up the gully to the left of the rib on the left side of the north face, but were forced to retreat. "On the fourth (and successful) try, Lionel Chute was accompanied by scout Victor Kaartinen. The full party of five scouts camped at Lake Serene, while the next day Chute and Kaa[r]tinen proceeded to climb the north peak, while Milton King, Howard S. McGee and Vernon Phillips circled the lake to climb the main south peak via the ordinary route. "Chute and Kaartinen climbed via the now standard route on the north face, their only equipment consisting of a 40-foot length of half-inch manila rope. "All went well until the cliffs above the mid-face bowl were reached. Chute managed to reach a narrow ledge about 30 feet up, from which he followed a crack 6 feet higher to a very exposed position. A rock projection gave way as Chute stood on it, but he succeeded in jumping back to safety. "To reach another ledge about 15 feet higher, he had to toss the rope up and loop it over a small rock spike. Disaster was narrowly averted here, for after Chute had climbed hand-over-hand to reach the higher ledge he discovered that two of the three strands were severed. Chute spliced the rope, brought Kaartinen up, and the two soon reached the top of the north face. "Here they piled up a two-foot cairn of rocks, left their names and the date written on a slip of paper in a waterproof match container, and inserted a small scrub tree trunk into the cairn. By this time the three other scouts had reached the summit of the main peak, and the two groups then yelled and waved at each other. "This same route on the north peak was climbed for a second time, during the late summer of 1940 (not 1939), by Otto T. Trott and Erick Larson. At the top of the north face they found the small pole left by the previous party. Essentially the same route was climbed during January 4-7, 1963, by Dan Davis and Pat Callis of Seattle. This remarkable achievement still remains [as of the year 1975] the greatest winter climb yet done in the Northwest." (This 1963 winter ascent was not surpassed until 14 years later, on January 29-30, 1977, when Don Page, Byron Robertson, Mike Marshall, and Larry Cooper made the first winter traverse from the North Peak, across the Middle Peak, to the Main Peak of Mount Index.) Uncertainty has surrounded the exact date of the Chute climb of North Index. At first, the year given for this ascent was "1929." When I asked Lionel (in 1973) if he could recall the exact date of the climb. He replied: "I made the climb in 1929, I think on July 4th." He mentioned that an account had been written up in a newspaper. However, when I checked all of the issues of the Everett Herald, the Seattle Times, and the Seattle Post-Intelligencer for the summer of 1929, there was no mention of an ascent of North Index. Further ambiguity was introduced in the June 1983 The Mountaineer annual, in a study on the early climbing history of Mount Constance (pp. 52-62; addenda in Sept.1983 Mtnr. p. 2). The authors interviewed Lionel Chute in January 1983, and learned that in June 1923 Chute and Walter Thomson (both were then junior Boy Scout counselors at Camp Parsons on the Olympic Peninsula) made the third or fourth recorded ascent of Mount Constance (Constance was the first mountain that Chute climbed (1923), as well as the last (1946/1947)). Neither individual had any formal training in mountaineering. Lionel Chute was one of those rare individuals born with a natural aptitude for rock climbing. During the 1983 interview, Chute was asked briefly about the North Index climb. His response was that the ascent took place "on July 5, 1930 with Victor Kaartinen" (1983 Mtnr. p. 58). The only known published photograph of Lionel Chute, taken in 1923 on the Mount Constance climbing venture, appears on page 59 of this annual, as the picture on the left (the correct caption is given in Sept. 1983 Mtnr. p. 2). Thus, as of the year 1983, the dates given for the Chute ascent of North Index were at variance: Lionel Chute himself first specified July 4, 1929, and then ten years later modified this to July 5, 1930. The description of the Lionel Chute ascent as published in 1975 in "Exploring Washington" specified that "the two soon reached the top of the north face. Here they piled up a two-foot cairn of rocks." There was a reason for this. At this point, the story becomes more complex, and we turn to the second ascent of North Index. (There had actually been a second attempt on North Index in 1937 by three Seattle climbers, who placed a number of pitons during the ascent (Lionel Chute did not use pitons during his ascent). One of these climbers was seriously injured during a fall high on the north face. An epic rescue effort was performed by local volunteers (mostly loggers) from the town of Index (none of whom was an experienced climber), this constituting the first major mountain rescue operation conducted in the North Cascades. The second ascent of North Index occurred in 1940 by Dr. Otto Titus Trott of Seattle, and Erick Larson of Everett. For many years, Dr. Trott was my family physician, operating out of a small clinic just one block west of Broadway, on Capitol Hill. The name Dr. Trott may not be familiar to many of today's climbers. He made only two historically significant climbs in the North Cascades: the first ascent of the Hanging Glacier on Mount Shuksan (Sept. 3-4, 1939, with Andy Hennig, correct spelling), and the second ascent of North Index (1940, with Erick Larson). Of the two climbs, he regarded the Hanging Glacier as the more important ascent, and with good reason. This was the most difficult and most significant ice climb achieved in the North Cascades prior to the Second World War. It was Dr. Trott who was largely responsible for introducing European ice climbing techniques into the Northwest. He was one of the principal founders of the Mountain Rescue Council (along with Wolf Bauer and Ome Daiber), and he was the principal medical advisor to the Council. These three persons, through the Mountain Rescue Council and through the establishment of The Mountaineers' Climbing Course, have exerted a profound and enduringly beneficial influence on the subsequent history of Northwest climbing. For an excellent biographical sketch of Dr. Trott, see the entry on Lowell Skoog's authoritative website http://alpenglow.org/ski-history/notes/comm/corff-nicholas.html. (Lowell, in an outstanding achievement of historical scholarship, has discovered yet a third, extremely important first ascent by Dr. Trott in the North Cascades --- the first ski ascent of Mt. Shuksan --- which, until Lowell's discovery, I had been entirely unaware of.) (Continuation to follow.)

Lowell has just succeeded in making what promises to be the single greatest advance in our knowledge of the Ptarmigans during the past half-century! Not only is there the excellent likelihood that he has determined the present location of the Ptarmigan scrapbook, it would appear that he has also discovered a large, significant, and unexpected collection of additional photographs, scrapbooks, and other materials --- all of which promise to shed new and substantial light on the history of Northwest climbing and skiing during the 1930s. I cannot overemphasize the importance of Lowell's discovery. He, and he alone, is deserving of the greatest credit for this discovery. Lowell --- please accept my compliments and commendation on your truly outstanding achievement in locating the Harby collection of photographs and scrapbooks. If this contains what it promises to, it represents by far the single most important source of material pertaining to the Ptarmigans and their achievements. The Ptarmigan Scrapbook of photographs and trip reports, documenting the first Ptarmigan Traverse and their first ascents in the Picket Range --- this is indeed the Holy Grail of Northwest mountaineering! I believe that you have made the right and wise decision to let matters proceed at their own pace, for the time being. We have already waited since the 1930s for the Ptarmigan scrapbook to come to light. A few more months (or years) won't make that much difference. I shall leave it to your discretion as to when and how to proceed further in this matter. Things look very encouraging. It is just a matter of being patient, and letting things run their course. The important thing is that there is the strong likelihood that the Ptarmigan scrapbook has finally been located, along with other important and entirely unexpected additional materials. I am confident that the Ptarmigan scrapbook will eventually find a safe and permanent home in the University of Washington Library, and that its contents will eventually be made available in published form.

Matt, Paul, Lowell, John, Cavey, along with the other posters, as well as the other readers who kindly sent me p.m.'s --- Thank you for your encouraging words. Your support is deeply appreciated. I believe that what I shall do is to continue to post here, with discretion, and without any specified restrictions. There is much information that I feel should be shared with others. It will probably be years before my final studies are published. Lowell, I believe, has offered some illuminating insight, when he observes that by posting information here, prior to actual publication (pre-publishing, so to speak), "You get a chance to test drive your ideas with an outspoken audience and refine your arguments. I think this can be a valuable process for a researcher and writer." This is wise advice, and I think that I shall heed it. What I am being provided with here is a glimpse into the future --- a glimpse as to how future historians and readers may view my writings. This is extremely valuable intelligence because, as Lowell observes, it allows me to to refine my arguments or modify my views. I will not personally be present in the future to produce counter-arguments or modifications. This is the next best thing. Moreover, I believe it would be of interest to many cc.com readers to have access to much of this information. And I believe it would be to my own benefit to receive constructive input from cc.com readers in such matters. Cavey --- You are a good man. You are loyal to your friends. That is an admirable attribute in an individual. You have my high respect for this.

Dru --- You continue to amaze me. I stand corrected. At least two of us, and probably several others, knew J. Mills Winram. No. No great secrets associated with either him or with Slesse. Mills did mention to me that his son also climbed Slesse about 1970, "and he was apparently as scared at times as I had been, on the first ascent. He has been much more respectful towards me ever since then."

Forrest --- I personally am pretty much in agreement with what you say. I myself don't care that much for the "statistics" approach to a sport/recreation/pastime such as climbing, which attracts many different types of people, with diverse outlooks on life and approaches to mountaineering. I would prefer to write an historical or biographical study on a narrative level, with occasional pauses to offer critical commentary or insight or evaluation, both positive and negative. Numbers can get pretty dry and dull in quick fashion. (1) People differ. There are those types who by nature are interested in quantifying things, and examining things from a statistical viewpoint. Most sports lend themselves to being quantified. Listen to any broadcast of a game. Numbers can sometimes provide us with insights into a situation which purely descriptive words cannot. Science cannot exist without quantification. Indeed, climbs themselves are rated --- so climbing itself, to some degree, is subject to quantification. Other types of people prefer a descriptive approach to things. This, too, is an acceptable approach. There are some things, particularly artistic, musical, and literary creations that simply cannot be properly comprehended by taking a numerical approach to them. The arts can be appreciated without quantification. Now --- I can totally ignore a quantifying approach to climbing. But there are other individuals out there, with a mathematical or statistical bent of mind, who will, on their own, take to quantifying mountaineering data. A problem then arises if I were to encounter such individuals. If they have the numerical data at their disposal, and I do not --- then I am placed at a disadvantage in trying to engage in a conversation with them. If they make a statement, and back it up with numerical data, I am thus in no position to dispute the point with them, or evaluate the correctness of that point. If I myself am not familiar with the numerical data --- all I can do is (a) accept their assertions; (b) dispute their assertions, but offer no proof of my own; © tell them that numbers do not mean anything, belittle this approach, and refuse to discuss the matter any further; or (d) remain neutral or uncommitted in the matter. As an historian and a biographer, I feel that both approaches to a matter are important --- the scientific (numerical), and the narrative (literary). I need to put things in a proper perspective. I am not dealing solely with things of the present. I am also looking at things over a long period of time, seeing how they develop, and how they compare with one another. Numbers and statistics do provide some insights that otherwise would not readily be evident. (2) I entirely agree with you as to the lack of "precision" we have at this time, with respect to certain climbing matters. I thought I had made this clear, when I stated that my figures were "a first-order approximation only," and by my use of such qualifying comments as "to the best of my knowledge at present." (3) I have observed that, in this forum, the topic of Fred, and any critical commentary concerning his achievements, appear to be rather sensitive topics among some individuals. It would appear that it is unacceptable (among some individuals, at least) to speak of him and his achievements on this forum, unless it is in a very positive and praiseworthy light. The same appears to be true in pointing out errors or omissions in CAG. I think that what I shall henceforth do is to avoid the topics of Fred and CAG entirely. This means that a lot of interesting information will not appear here that otherwise might have, but this approach (keeping certain information concealed at present) should also serve to keep the most vocal and persistent persons happy and quiet. Yes, they have succeeded in "silencing" this line of discussion. (This may be too strong a term, but I think that many readers who have been following this thread understand what has just happened here on cc.com over the past few days.) The information will, instead, first appear in published form, in historical and biographical studies that eventually will be forthcoming. (4) I knew many of the pioneer climbers of the past. I myself do not climb. But what I do represent is a direct link between the climbers of today and the climbers of the past. Right now, Fred and I are really the only living major direct links with the past. When we both are gone, this link between the present and the past will be entirely severed. I knew Lage Wernstedt's widow. I knew Hal Sylvester's daughter. I knew the members of the Winder-Farr-Grigg-Blair-Strandberg-Martin group. I personally knew Hermann Ulrichs for many years. On two or three occasions, Dick McCollum and I drove down to San Anselmo in California to visit with Hermann for two or three weeks. We helped him out by doing repairs on his home, re-roofed part of his house, and fixed his car up so that he could sell it. On one of those trips, we brought Norval Grigg with us, so that he and Hermann, two of the greatest pioneer climbers of the North Cascades --- who once had been rivals --- could be reconciled. In some instances, I represent the only living link --- I personally knew Harlan Trumbull (The Brothers 1912), Charles Hazlehurst (The Tooth 1916), J. Mills Winram (Slesse 1927), Lionel Chute (North Index), along with a number of others. These, and other pioneer climbers, told me many things; many interesting things. Some things will eventually be published; some things are perhaps best reserved for private communication to friends, in confidence; and some things are perhaps best left in silence.

Dru --- Yes, the "peak totals" also include those which Fred has not made a first ascent on. For instance, he has done Mount Si three times that I know of: in 1937, with the Boy Scouts (Challenge, p. 258, it was the third time in his life that he had ever climbed a mountain). He was up Si for a second time in April 1939 with the Basic Climbing Course, with Lloyd Anderson (this is not listed in Challenge, Lloyd told me this.) The third time up Si (and last time I know of) was on March 29, 1942, when he did the Haystack with Walt Varney and Tom Strizek. As for the accuracy of the Totals --- This is a first-order approximation only, just enough to give us an idea of how the figures are beginning to line up. The principal data base is the "Chronology of Climbs 1936-1968," that Fred includes on pages 258-280 of "Challenge of the North Cascades." On the whole, this list is fairly accurate and complete. There are a number of errors and omissions --- the Index North Peak ascent was on July 1, 1945, not in 1941 --- his first ascent of the West face of Mt. Thomson in 1940 is omitted --- the first ascent of the southwest face of The Tooth was on Oct 25, 1942 with Lewis Graham (not in 1941) --- it omits the 1959 first ascent of Classic Crack on Eightmile Boulder, with Don Gordon, which has never been published --- and so on. But, on the whole, the list is fairly complete. I have also taken into account his reported climbs since 1968: such as Jack Mountain (1978) and White Chuck (1988). My tabulations incorporate these corrections and additions, but there are probably others which I am unaware of (such as Sitting Bull Mtn., which John has mentioned -- Thanks, John, I will add it to the records). Nonetheless, until someone has a chance to go through his diaries and prepare a new, revised list of climbs, these are the best data we have available to work with at present, and for some time to come. Yes --- according to what he told me years ago, he did at one time keep diaries . The percentages presented in my last post use the peaks listed in the indices of CAG as the basis for selection. This yields a total of 192 peaks that he has climbed, using CAG as the basis. The 192 figure consists of major/prominent peaks, as well as minor technical crags/towers. These are peaks and crags/towers for which he has a first-hand knowledge of. Again, this is a first-order approximation. It is unlikely that he has climbed 500 or 600 peaks in the North Cascades. The actual number is closer to 200, probably less than 300. With what data we have access to at present, this is about the best that we can come up with. Keep in mind that, although the base list is more than 30 years old, since then many, if not most, of his climbs (as Ray has just mentioned) have been done in ranges other than the North Cascades. Peaks which Fred has not climbed --- There are some surprises here. In order of decreasing elevation, the unclimbed peaks are (to the best of my knowledge at present): Bonanza Peak (Poncho&Lefty is correct), Mt. Buckner, Mt. Logan, Seven Fingered Jack, Black Peak, Copper Peak, North Gardner Mtn., Gardner Mtn., Boston Peak, Mesahchie/Panther, Peak, Oval Peak, Mt. Lago/Lage, Robinson Mtn., Colchuck Peak, Star Peak, Remmel Mtn., Mt. Holyoke/Katsuk Peak, Fortress Mtn., Cannon Mtn., Mt. Custer, Kimtah/Gendarmes Peak, and Ptarmigan Peak. (Several of these are Lage Wernstedt peaks.) This brings the list down to 8600' (400-ft prominence rule). There are also some surprises among the lower-elevation unclimbed peaks --- Tomyhoi, Terror, Degenhardt, North Hozomeen, Formidable, Booker, McGregor, Lemah, Summit Chief, Daniel, Hibox, Cashmere, Argonaut. To my knowledge, he has not done the Ptarmigan Traverse, nor has he visited the Snowking area. This, however, is an open category. He can easily narrow this list down after one summer's season of concentrated climbing. First ascents of major/prominent peaks in the North Cascades --- This is a closed category. Lage Wernstedt holds a commanding lead here, with a total of 77 known first ascents of major/prominent peaks in the North Cascades. Fred comes in second with 52 peaks, followed by Hermann Ulrichs with at least 23 major/prominent peaks. At this point, there is a sharp drop-off, as the next climber has 12 peaks. Again, this is a closed category. There are simply no more unclimbed Silver Stars left in the North Cascades. No person can ever hope to surpass the record of Lage Wernstedt.

John --- My data are incomplete, and in need of updating, but here is what is immediately accessible regarding CAG and the peaks therein which Fred has actually climbed: The most recent editions of CAG-1 (2000), CAG-2 (2003), and CAG-3 (2000) are used here. Tabulation is done using the peaks listed in the indices as a basis. These include Fred's published 1936-1968 climbs, as listed in "Challenge" (pp. 258-280), along with whatever has been subsequently published in CAG, AAJ, and other sources. These data include backcountry and alpine crags, such as on Snagtooth Ridge and in the high Enchantments. They do not include lowland crags such as Midnight Rock. I have added and included Exfoliation Dome as one of the 36 climbed peaks in CAG-2, even though it is not listed in the book or in its index. That is a peak in its own right. In fact, I believe is the most difficult "low" summit in the North Cascades. All three volumes of CAG index a total of 1232 peaks, named and unnamed. Of these, Fred has climbed a recorded number of 192 peaks. This is equivalent to 16% If subdivided by each volume, the results are skewed. CAG-1 lists a total of 313 peaks. Of these, Fred has climbed a recorded number of 87. This is equivalent to 28%. CAG-2 lists a total of 451 peaks. Of these, Fred has climbed a recorded number of 36. This is equivalent to 8%. CAG-3 lists a total of 469 peaks. Of these, Fred has climbed a recorded number of 70. This is equivalent to 15%. The reason why the percentage figure for CAG-1 is so high, is because of the comparatively greater number of pinnacles present in the Enchantments, and relatively fewer number of significant peaks present south of Snoqualmie Pass. The Glacier Peak area does not appear to have attracted much of his attention, probably due to the relatively fewer technical climbs on high quality alpine rock. Once you get farther north, into the Pickets and the igneous plutons north of Lake Chelan, then his interest picks up again. There is an immense amount of information present in those three volumes, not only climbing information, but historical and geological as well. I doubt if there is any other person here today who have put together this version of CAG. I suspect that in the future, revisions of CAG will be handled by a committee; or the North Cascades will have to be broken down into separate sub-regions, each of which is handled by an author who is thoroughly familiar with that particular area. Yes, there are errors and omissions. These are to be expected. When you are dealing with such immense amounts of information, obtained from so many different sources, and so widely differing in quality, you are bound to encounter problems in information management. Many errors are due to the fact that Fred has never climbed the peak in question, and had to rely on source(s) which were conflicting, inaccurate, or which could not be independently confirmed. The astounding thing is that he was able to put together a guidebook, having evidently climbed only 16% of the peaks listed therein. Fred is unquestionably one of the most intelligent persons I have ever met. Don't let the apparently rough exterior fool you --- beneath lies a brilliant intellect. Dru --- again, you have been extraordinarily perceptive. Yes, it would appear that during the past 30 years, Fred and I have been engaged in a low-level historical "competition." It has been an honor and a pleasure to have Fred as a "rival." It has been challenging, enjoyable, productive, and beneficial --- not only to each of us, but to the climbing and historical community as a whole. There are things which likely would not have been discovered or written or published, by both of us, were it not for the cross-influence Fred and I have had on each other. Who was the victor? We both won. Everyone benefited in this case. Cavey --- You are a good man. You speak with the voice of reason.

(1) Several very illuminating and persuasive points are being presented here on this thread. I understand the viewpoints expressed by other persons, I can be moved by convincing evidence and well presented arguments, and I am willing to change my mind as the case may be. Moreover (as demonstrated by Gert Harby's married name), I am more than willing to acknowledge those instances where I have been wrong or have made an error. I am always open to the voice of reason. My own personal opinion with respect to Ragged Ridge has not yet reached a final, definitive stage. It may or may not change in the future. The views of the Northwest climbing community as a whole should also be given serious consideration. This website serves as an important forum of debate for issues such as this. (a) Whether or not one likes the original names; or (b) whether one feels that the Chinook Jargon terms are appropriate and/or offensive; or © whether the names should be removed, and replaced by the original or entirely different names, or the ridge just left a Wilderness blank --- these are three separate issues, each being open to rational debate. An entirely different issue --- and perhaps the most important one here --- is the manner in which the geographic names of the first-ascent parties were treated with disdain. The views of the first-ascent climbers were not treated with particular courtesy and respect, for they were not consulted in advance when the new names were put forth. When these climbers did express their views in the matter, they were then evidently cavalierly dismissed. (2) With respect to errors and omissions in CAG --- One reader here on cc.com appears to be a personal friend of Fred, he may perhaps regard Fred in an ideal manner, and he has on several occasions in the past appeared to be a bit defensive of him. This is very noble of this individual. We all should hope that, when we reach Fred's age, we each have a younger person to champion our cause. Fred is a publicly known figure, indeed a prominently known figure in the Northwest mountaineering world. Fred is an historical figure. Fred is also an author. He has published studies in the mountains of the North Cascades, and their history. Fred is a far superior climber than I am, or I can ever hope to be --- But when it comes to the history of exploration and climbing in the North Cascades, we are more evenly matched. Fred is aware of this. He is also aware that 30 years ago I mentioned to him that one day I would likely be writing a biographical study of him. Once authors and prominent figures enter the public limelight --- their actions, and their achievements, and their writings are open to public comment, criticism, and evaluation. I am an author and an historian. I am open to constructive criticism. I welcome it. I also welcome others calling attention to my errors. I do so myself. In the past, I have issued lists of "Additions and Corrections" to my previously published works. I seek the truth. I post here openly, under my own name. I am thus immediately identifiable and accountable. If other individuals detect errors or omissions in my own published works, I invite those individuals to bring these oversights to my attention. I would be grateful for these corrections and additions. It is great-minded of a person to be open to constructive criticism, to be receptive to having their written errors brought to their attention, and to admit when they are wrong. I do not believe it is reasonable to assume that Fred is infallible, or above criticism, or that errors and omissions in his works should be kept concealed. In fact, Fred himself has explicitly stated, in print, that he wants these errors and omissions brought to light. A three-volume climbing guide, containing such massive amounts of information as it does (much of which does not directly pertain to route descriptions), derived from many different sources of varying quality --- is by its very nature expected to contain errors and oversights. It is in the interest of the climbing and historical community to have these errors and oversights brought to their attention, particularly when matters of climbing safety and the public record are involved. If I offer critical commentary concerning CAG or Fred's achievement, I am presenting a glimpse into the future. Long after we of today are gone, future historians and biographers will be presenting critical evaluations of both CAG and Fred. Though some individuals might wish that I be silent now, it will be more difficult to silence those historians and biographers yet to come. My acquaintance with Fred goes back many years, to 1972. In 1974 I submitted a 54-page list of Corrections and Additions to the original 1973 first edition of CAG-1. Fred was evidently not pleased by this --- despite the fact that on page ix of that guide he had explicitly invited the presentation of such information: "it is sincerely hoped new information, missing history, as well as errors discovered, will be sent to The Mountaineers." Fred has thus stated, in print, that he wants the errors and omissions in CAG brought to light. The information contained in that 54-page list was incorporated in subsequent editions of CAG-1, without crediting its source. I interpret this as a sign of Fred's apparent displeasure. As an historian, I can be expected to offer critical evaluation, both positive and negative. But I also make a sincere effort to be fair. (3) With respect to pre-existing names for the peaks on Ragged Ridge. I know of no earlier names that had been applied to the separate peaks of Ragged Ridge, or to the entire ridge itself, by Native Americans, or by early trappers and explorers, or miners in the region. Red Mountain, at the west end of Ragged Ridge, was first climbed in 1926 by Lage Wernstedt. There is no record of the peaks east of Red Mountain, on Ragged Ridge, having been climbed prior to the first-ascent parties of 1966, 1968, and 1970. In 1927, Lage Wernstedt introduced the names "Red Mountain" and "Ragged Ridge." These are descriptive names, based upon the appearance of these features The first published reference to these two geographic features, and the first printed appearance of these two names, appears on the 1928 edition of the Forest Service map of the former "Chelan National Forest." At the lower left corner of the map, it states that the map was compiled "by Lage Wernstedt, 1927." This, and the 1931 Forest Service map of the "Mt. Baker National Forest" are two of the epochal and most important maps in the entire history of the North Cascades. On all previous maps, most of the Pasayten and Picket Range area remained blank. Here, for the first time in recorded history, appear dozens of new mountains and other newly named geographic features in the Pasayten and Picket Range. Lage Wernstedt (1878-1959) was the person who created the names: Fury, Terror, Despair, Challenger, Inspiration, Triumph. The name "Picket Range" was his creation. These are inspired place-names, among the finest and most appropriate in the entire Cascade Range. I did not personally know Lage, for he died in 1959 before I was aware of his existence. But I did know his widow, Dottie (Dot Lake is named after her), and she informed me that the Picket Range names were his own creation. For many years Dottie lived alone in a small home on Guemes Island. She showed me the camera Lage had used in mapping the North Cascades, and she took me and Dick McCollum to visit Lage's grave in the little cemetery on Guemes Island. Wernstedt was one of the most remarkable individuals ever associated with the North Cascades. He graduated from the Royal Technological School at Stockholm, with a double degree in Naval Architecture and Mechanical Engineering. In 1905, Lage was one of the first persons to receive a Masters degree from the newly created School of Forestry at Yale University. He was one of the world pioneers in the use of stereo-plotting (photogrammetry) from vertical aerial photographs to prepare topographic maps; and he conducted extensive mapping efforts for the Forest Service in Washington, Oregon, and Alaska. His methods were later used by the Army Mapping Service, and during the Second World War. Wernstedt was also one of the principal individuals associated with the introduction and development of the Forest Service "smokejumpers" method of fighting forest fires. Few individuals today fully realize the magnitude of Wernstedt's climbing and mapping achievement in the North Cascades. For total number of first ascents of major peaks in the North Cascades --- these are substantial, very prominent mountains, not minor technical crags --- Lage Wernstedt holds first place, with 77 first ascents. These include Mt. Logan, Black Peak, Silver Star, Mt. Lago/Lage, and Tomyhoi Peak. Fred comes next, with 52 first ascents of prominent major peaks; followed by Hermann Ulrichs with at least 23. I knew Hermann quite well, for many years. I have been at work on biographical studies on all three individuals. I may, over the coming years, "pre-publish" some information of interest here on cc.com.