shapp
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Posts posted by shapp
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if hard-bodied 20-something females are flocking to your route, do the ethics even matter?
let's be honest brothers...
Or enough people to keep it clean, so when you want to go climb your own route you put-up, you don't have to bring a big moss raper and face shield every time.
I used to care about how routes were put up, know I just want to climb good routes regardless, just so long as cracks stay unbolted.
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Thanks for the TR shappart. Love the tamale pie pan and that rock looks sweet! Is that all limestone?
That pan is a Rome combo deep fryer. It is cast aluminum and they stopped making them years ago. The lid is a griddle, the bottom is a deep skillet, together they make the most bad ass dutch oven for a meal for 10 peeps.
The rock is mostly some sort of granite-like rock, and some is more like rhyolite. Didn't see any limestone.
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It wasn't around 1.5' last year in early August it was about 2.0. Toward the end of Aug last year it was 1.7. There is a huge difference between 1.5 and 2.0' up top.
We launched at 1.52' at Boundary on Aug 16. We are low water tweekers though. With all due respect, flying into Indian is a serious mistake, the upper canyon is bad ass and very runable with medium to light boats and some skill. Note that the woman rowing the green raft is almost 70. She ran off the top at 1.5 like a pimp!
A video compilation made by my passenger who happens to be a professional video editor:
[video:youtube]
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Trip: Middle Fork Salmon River Rocks! - Boundary Creek to Cache Bar 99 miles Frank Church
Date: 8/16/2015
Trip Report:
I posted a while back looking for info on rock climbing along the Middle Fork Salmon River in Idaho. We won a lotto permit this year finally. The odds are about 1 in 28 or so for drawing one. 3rd hardest river to win a permit on (Grand Canyon is #1, Selway is probably #2). We did the Main Main salmon a few years ago and brought a big old trad rack and put up a few climbs. Thought we might do the same on the Middle Fork. But low water conspired against these plans.
We put in at Boundary Creek on the Middle Fork Salmon River for a 99 mile float through the Frank Church Wilderness Aug 16-23. Bad news is with the very low water and need to go light, we could not afford to bring a trad rack, which is a real bummer cause there is a ton of potential to climb in the canyon! The bad news too is that the USFS limits a float trip to 8 days, and during low water, you need that amount of time to get down the river, with no real time for exploratory climbing.
A pictorial report below:
Brian's mom is almost 70!
and so is his dad!
2 donks on a rock
tamale pie
hot springs
Matti-V about to go in the ditch in the background
Wolf on Sheep
Gear Notes:
2 hyside minixmax, 1 - 12 ft Sotar Raft, 1 sotar cat, 1 - 14 ft Sotar Raft, 1 Aire Super duper puma, vaporizer, beers, 1 liter of gin, 1 liter of rum, 1 liter of whiskey, 1 liter of tequila (just for me).
Approach Notes:
long drive in Tundra ending north of Stanley Idaho.
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With the ever changing popular lexicon, maybe 6-pack does refer to something more!
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Definitely! though its harder than the rest of the climb.Do the Remorse start -
Big Tree is very adequately protected, I think the issue is staying on route the 3rd pitch that is the trick. It isn't any more runout than anything else. It also happens to be the very first route I climbed in the Darrington area back in 2000 when we moved to the area from eastern Oregon. I got totally off route on the 3rd pitch as I was "smooted" by the Washington falcon guide book. I had to lower back a ways and get back on route. I have climbed it several times since and once you know where to go, no worries. As far as better to best protected routes in the greater Darrington area with high concentration and least approach, Spring Mt. is your place.
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a I am hoping to find out if anyone else is planning to hit it the weekend of the
Many folks try to climb outer space every single weekend if it isn't raining. Not trying to be a d-bag but that is sort of like asking if anyone is going to be at Pearly Gates on the weekend. It is safe to say that unless your are incredibly motivated to get there early, someone will be in front of you and likely behind as well.
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OMFG...Shapp- I love you and I don't even know your name!!
Your location says BFE, WA - Of which one can only surmise given the nature of typical "BFE" residents that you are indeed a true goat-on-a-string Aficionado. If so, you must then be a Darrington regular if not true hardcore. If so, have we not met at one of those moss-covered jeweled slabs before?
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For god sake take the blue pill and lead a normal life! I would wager climbing is more than sport for anyone on this forum with more than 50 posts. If you go down this road, just know that soon enough you will only hang out with climbers, all your non-climbing friends now will fade away, you will start eating moldy begals layered with horse cock, smell like chalk and stinky athletic tape, quit your job and move into the back of your pickup. God I hope you are over 18. Just saying.
On a positive note FRESH MEAT! A lot of us sort of taught our selves how to climb before the internet was invented and picked up a lot of tips here and there from old geezers, and somehow we are still alive. Before the interweb, We checked out all the rock climbing books available at the library! Sat around and smoked big fatties and drooled over the latest climbing mags, found some rocks and tried to kill ourselves. Can't say that is the best way to learn. If you are looking for a teacher I would recommend a club. Or else you could put a goat on a string and wait around the start of the Clear Creek road near Darrington, You could likely trade unmentionables with the goat for some serious slab and trad climbing schooling. I would say the goat/string idea would be preferable to a 40 person climbing club trip to Smith Rock for a number of good reasons, mostly because goats are cool and can actually climb better than most of the instructors at said club events, plus they give milk and you can put a dog pack on them and they can carry half your rack or more without complaint and won't drink your beer, though they will munch a medical stash in 1/2 a second. However, you will always have to drive.
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I assume Mountain Project.com is still around for beta?
Flagstone might have what you are looking for. Kid friendly. 25 minutes south on gravel roads off McKenzie Pass Hwy. Turn off at Finn Rock.
Agree, flagstone is definitely the best easy climbing you will find remotely close to your route.
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1/2 my family lives in various parts of Alaska in relatively close proximity to Denali. I don't think I have every been in a conversation on the numerous times when I have been to AK, where someone called it McKinley when discussing the location, thats everyone, not just climbers, kids, grandmas, every day folks call it Denali.
Most everyone that lives near Mt. Rainier calls it that.
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toxic shock and rattle tale are 2 of my favorites
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booty-for-booty trade.
This thread just got interesting!
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Did I mistakenly post in Spray? All I'm getting is trolls.
and furthermore I don't even drink beer, so that is only for my friends when they come over and hang out.
B.S., you would have requested IPA then as the beer type you requested is currently out of favor with the populous
I think you are getting the trolls because you come off as a d-bag for asking for a reward. Obviously, you are due a six-pack and any climber worth anything would give you a six pack and smoke you out without you asking for it.
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Some words from Tyler himself on Morgul Vale stone:
"Managed to climb morgul vale on sunday in a fucking down pour with my friend steve. Was pretty funny, soaking wet on every pitch, but good to know you can still climb it in the rain, fuckin-a that rocks got friction."
miss you a lot budy, RIP
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I have climbed slick rock twice, the first time was the regular route in the mid 1990s, great time, before there were any fixed belays. The second time was in the early 2000s, climbed straight up to the large chimeny area on the right following the line of least resistance.
Climbed the open book on the Finger of Fate in 2007, see trip report with gear recommends
Of note, do not underestimate the difficulty of rock climbing when you are at over 9000 feet, but you live at near sea level. The altitude was kicking my ass. It is a hump up the hill too from Hell roaring lake to the base.
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Also, since the OP is by Smith Rock, tri-cams are particularly relevant as here and there you run into weird pocket features that are hard to protect with anything else. Also way cheaper and lighter than off-set spring loaded cams, and are good extra backups for building anchors once you've exhausted the rest of your gear on lead cause they not only work like cams, but also like stoppers.
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I use camp tri cams all the time for aid and free, in Many cases they are easily C1, where other gear would be way more sketchy. They are super great for horizontal aid placements in shallow cracks where a regular cam would be bent to hell going over the edge of the crack when weighted. But from all your responses to this thread, your opinions are best. Having climbed liberty crack, I would say definitely you want some off-set nuts.
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Based on his initial post he would be over his head here to start talking about hooks etc. etc. He needs some basics before starting talking about beaks and hooks. He don't even know if he needs 2 aiders/daisies or 1? Before he goes to do a Grade V aid route this year (like he indicated was the goal in the initial post) he needs to figure a lot out, "simple?" stuff like how you organize gear on your person, how to high step, how to efficiency jug and clean a pitch, how to haul a bag. He will have a shit show on the first couple multi pitch aid climbs (even at A1). Before he goes off and tries liberty crack at least climb a few multi pitch easy aid routes at smith (which is in the OPs backyard). The best way to learn is to do and figure out your own basic system based on the general tried and true methods, such as described in any of the available big walls books.
Routes the OP should do at Smith: West Face of Monkey Face and North Face and East Face of Monkey Face. Obviously talking clean aid here and no cam hooks. You need some off-set nuts (regular and micro) in addition to your regular large selection of smaller trad gear (small to regular sized cams, and regular nut selections, and the few 4 or so smallest camp tri-cams). these will seam like grade V's for your first multi pitch aid. After you do those with a partner and get your shit figured out, do them solo. Then you should be pretty dialed in for easy aid. Then you can start fooling with pins, hooks, cam hooks etc and Grade V aid on popular routes like Liberty Crack.
Do the West Face first. With all the bolt ladders you can focus on how you move aiders and high step efficiently, how you set up your jugging system for cleaning on overhanging terrain, etc. Try hauling a small bag to get that system dialed in. On the other two, you can play around more with placing trad gear in small cracks/pin scars and organizing/efficiently finding/using that gear. If you do the West Face, North and East with a partner, then solo, that would be good goal for this summer. Then maybe hit up Steins Pillar for a step up on the shenanigan level.
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Robbins climbed El Cap in a matter of days with hand tied aiders and no proper seat harness
That is just frankly unbelievable. Please come back to this thread when you can bring some substantiated truth with you, and not just wild claims.
I believe TM Herbert had an unnatural love for goats, which has been passed down through the genes to most modern aid climbers through incest. However, I have it on good authority that some prefer sheep. Some such as myself prefer both sheep and goats, in addition to good old webbing ladders.
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Robbins climbed El Cap in a matter of days with hand tied aiders and no proper seat harness, "a climber" the specific piece of gear does not make.
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Patient belayer, seriously. Until you get efficient you will be slow. Biggest thing: learn to high step (i.e. get as far upward before placing a the next piece). Good luck. Lots of cracks in the gorge at Smith with no peeps.
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His feats were amazing, but unfortunately we all knew how his story would end in this life. Pretty erie watching the Discovery Channel climbing show a week or so on-demand then this. Condolences to all that knew him in person.
RIP Corvallisclimb
in Climber's Board
Posted
Missing my friend Tyler Adams; a year ago yesterday he made his last flight. An inspirational soul I will never forget.