matt_m
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Posts posted by matt_m
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Skimming the guidebook (non-water) tells me there's plenty to do without getting wet.
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http://home.pacbell.net/takasper/slcd/valleygiant.html
Tom Kasper is still making them...for now. He's talked about stopping. Not reasonable ($175) but new:-)
Good luck
One might re-define "reasonable" near the top when you have that beauty plugged in next to you.
They're [VGs] top notch by the way - worth it for the pro and years of conversations you'll have...
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These guys are out of Austin, TX and make good stuff. Many of these draws can be found around the limestone areas around here.
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Found a great pic of the ledge and boulder...
Photos by Ben Gilkison / www.bentroy.com
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Is John Scurlock available for a custom flyby?
Even better, John S has "ins" with Alpinist. Maybe a dual purpose can be served. A nice article in Alpinist AND pictures will raise MUCHO awareness.
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Any links for information on the wash out? Where is the road closed? I was heading in to take another run on it to best the car-car record...dang!
512 - was just up on 6/13. I've done IB twice now (need to check my CTC time). The taylor bridge is out - see above pic. There's a HUGE tree leaning against it that gives access to the far side OR someone has rigged a cable Tyrollean as well. (I did the tree as I didn't feel like getting the gear out then) It does add a bit of time to the approach as you now have to hike to the TH. (20-30min? I wasn't paying attention this time).
The big news for you is it's WET up there right now. Lots of water coming down. P6 (as you leave the lower slabs) has water all over it (waterfall on a few of the bolts). I think you could climb around it to the right (bring some gear). I bailed as the weather was threatening (thunder and a few drops) and I didn't feel like rapping off the wet chains INTO the water. Hit up Fee Demo instead.
M
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Just and FYI to the OP. IB is NOT a small undertaking and if you're just starting out WAY out of your skill set right now. Not trying to be condescending, just being truthful.
Edit: Realized I still sounded like a duche. Basically you're looking at a STEEP approach followed by 23 pitches of climbing. The climbing can be runout, there's challenging route-finding in places, a funky bit of 4th+ class with no pro or anchors etc etc. Then you add in the raps down (figure 4 hours if you haven't done a lot of long and sometimes wandering raps)
I'd check out some more stuff in L'worth first. Condormorphine Addiction or link Heart of Gold to Prime Rib? (not sure on that without my book) Or head up to Darrington / 3 o'clock rock.
Longer Trad stuff in the PNW is really the domain of UTW at Index, WA Pass or Squamish.
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You mean this washout?
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Page
Ramuta:
pros:
Always excellent consistent amazing workmanship!
Great glue
I personally like the vertical finishing grind
cons:
You have to ship them and wait a while.
The soles are thicker than even Sportiva puts on their beginner shoes, thus you can't feel the stone while on hard routes for almost three weeks until they wear down.
And RuMr, you should have been climbing on Kendos instead. (even for edging routes)
Just FYI - RAMUTA (Who I'll ship shoes to till the day I die) does different thicknesses, you have to request them and VW isn't very good at telling you the options. I email him last month and this is the info:
"We have xs Grip in 3.5mm, xsv in 3.5mm and 5.10 C4 in 4.0mm and 5.5mm. Thanks, John"
Me? I have 2 pairs of my fav shoes, one with XS Grip for hot days and one with the Stealth for the colder ones (he had ONYX I think last time - need to ask about that)
Send em to Ramuta - QUALITY period
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While in San Antonio last year, most Austin-ites were pretty upbeat on the scene there. (I never made it down due to conflicts every weekend I had the chance!) There were concerns last year as well. No military personnel were allowed in Mexico PERIOD. The vibe I got was once you're there it's a pretty sleepy climbers area - you are not in town but up canyon near the rocks. People did insist on only driving there during the daylight hours and avoiding any time in the border towns. It does seem to be getting worse.
http://www.woai.com/mostpopular/story/Spring-break-travel-warning/wjGlfP29nEa85D78hBE1tg.cspx
This is the best place to get the "local" info.
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I've been on here 5+ years and the "it's coming" has been a running joke on here since AT LEAST 6 years ago. Buy the select book if you want an "update". A new book will be "almost here" when I see it on a shelf.
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Big Bros - Never climbed with - just placed on the ground once or twice to practice. New baby means when I do get out it won't be for OWs. Like new and already slung with 5.5mm tech cord.
#2 - $55
Pics available
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Used on one snow outing. Never got into the snow climbing. Has a couple of dings from being on the gear shelf but is pretty much new. Includes the BD Slider leash. Retail would be at least $95 for both. 70cm
Raven Pro: Created for weight-conscious mountaineers, the full-function Raven Pro is a lighter version of our Raven. Built with an aluminum shaft and a more compact investment-cast stainless steel head and spike, it provides all-around performance. 382g
Price: 70US
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Never got into the snow thing. Still new in box. Pics if you need them.
The 10 point Stubai Ultralight Universal Crampon has proven itself as the top rated lightweight crampon for mountaineering again and again. Tough and durable aluminium alloy make it possible to cut the weight down 40% or more compared to standard Steel Crampons. The Zytel binding/attachment system is the best on the market for being fast, secure and working with a variety of footwear. Ideal for non-technical mountaineering, glacier travel, steep couloirs, snowfields, etc. Features Lightweight at 20.6 oz Climb Very Well Semi-Flexible Easily Adjusts for Shoes and Boots Aircraft Grade Aluminium Alloy Excellent for Mountaineering
Price: 65 USD OBO
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Are tricams very usefull here? I've never used them here but my uncle who climbs in North Carolina has them and I love using them when I climb with him there.
Having climbed in the NE (Gunks, NH etc) I found the Tricams very, very useful there. Lots of horizontal placements and things where they fit just perfectly. Out here I've almost NEVER found a use for them except in the Alpine for belays etc. A set is nice but not for the PNW.
As for doubles and your prefs, Yellow Alien, Red Alien, .75 camalot.
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1) Wild Things Bivy Sack - Like new. I've slept in this thing for 2 nights total on a pad in the Chief campground. I'm just not a snow/ice/bivy guy. Spec here: Bivy Sack Mine is a bit more gold and red in color - I can take pics if needed. Includes a mesh storage bag and zip-in bug netting. $180
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Nice send and thanks for the service - Midnight needs the traffic and fresh hardware to stay "un-mossy" in the long run. The rust and slime I saw last time was dis-heartening for the hike I'd just done. Looks like it's getting the love it deserves now.
I laugh at this topic - I moved away for 15 months, return and the same 2 have the same tired complaints they always do.
That said it's evident at index and elsewhere there's some fresh blood breathing a lot of new life (and upkeep and cleaning) into the local crags (index, lworth etc) and for that I say THANKS
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UPDATE - Drill and the Stainless hangers are gone.
Got all this stuff for some big wall and crag up keep (no new routing aspirations, just rust relief). Pending Parenthood means all this will likely sit, unused for some time. Give it a good home. Full list of items here: RC.com Classifieds link
Short list of stuff: Hangers, Bolts, Chain, Fixed Draws, Static Rope, Haul Bag (new)
Thanks!
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It goes both ways. I laugh every time I go into one of the "local climbing shops" only to be reminded by the staff of how "core" they are and how "newbie" I am.
Any "experienced" gear shopper knows what to expect from stores big and small.
As Always - Caveat Emptor
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Bought this stuff for projects that never happened. All new or nearly new.
Metolius Half Dome Haul Bag - NEW - $190 - Tan Color. Never touched rock.
Bosch 36 Volt Lithium Ion Rotary Hammer - Like New - $495 (One hole drilled)
Climbing Quick Draws - Project Draws 9 for $90 - Great for 32. New OP Gym Dandy steel wire gates with quicklinks, Petzl Strings and Nylon Dogbones. Never used.
Blue Water Static Rope 10mm Big Wall 300' - $180 - This is a still in box spool of 300' Blue Water Static Big Wall Rope.
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The debate seems to be about what the "risk style" of the route was during the FFA (croft) and whether or not that should be restored. As it is right now - the bolts are manky and need replacement - period end of story. What's really being debated here is whether the new stainless should be a 1 for 1 same location replacement, a 1 for 1 replacement with location adjustment, or most controversially, SS replacement of the original bolts with the addition of 1 more bolt lower down. From all the posts, it certainly seems like the FFA and many repeats were done with slings off the older bolts, essentially creating more "clipping" locations than there were bolts (3 at least by my count - long sling, bolt that sling is attached to, 2nd bolt above)
All the recent climbs sound like they were done sans sling. Proud to be sure. Strong, impressive climbing that should be commended. But their style should in no way negatively influence how a climb is protected during other ascents. What I mean is, just because someone does a climb in a way BOLDER than the FFA that shouldn't mean everyone after them must follow the same way. If we did follow this mantra we'd have chaos every time bolt replacement came up. "I did it back in 95 when there were rusty, loose, 1/4in spinners so that level of boldness must always remain" or worse "I skipped those bolts and used crappy trad gear so should you." I don't think so. There are always bolder people out there and if the "I did it 'better' than you so now you have to too" idea were accepted - climbing would become exclusionary to the extreme.
Route maintenance should try to faithfully restore the protection LEVEL found on the first ascent (or FFA if that applies) while also taking into account current impact levels. In some cases this means pulling and plugging a hole since wide pro that provides THE SAME LEVEL of protection is now available. Pulling a bolt because you can wiggle in a marginal 00 TCU doesn't count. More controversial would be pulling a rusty pin and replacing it with a bolt.
In the SPM case, one has to look at what Croft had as his level of protection during the FFA - It certainly seems to me like he had at least 3 points of solid pro. So how do you restore the route to this level of protection? Replace two bolts with new locations or place 3 bolts? I tend to think that 3 SS Camo bolts have far less impact on the rock than a 4 foot piece of tat that makes climbers look bad with land managers. (The same conclusion has been made at the very anti-bolt Gunks where rap anchors have been bolted for several years to REDUCE impact). Do 1-1 replacements on the originals and add a new one where the sling would've been clipped.
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Rumor also has it that that bolt had a looonng sling on it back in the croft day. If it ever gets replaced (it's getting old) it should be moved lower for a similar clip to the FFA.
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Just got my copy in the mail. Very well done with lots of newer / undocumented stuff that looks great. Makes me want to check Nov flights to LV now. Highly recommended.
REI Sucks
in Climber's Board
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THIS. Marmot is the store for all the funky hard goods etc. 1/2in Webbing is hard to find ANYWHERE.
Climbing Hards Goods = Business FAIL without softgood support. PERIOD. The ONLY place you might pull it off is in the heart of a climbing mecca (yos valley, gunks, boulder etc) Any other place where climbers are less than common and you need the mom's with TNF and Arcteryx. period.