RichardKorry

Rad - PM Sent

Cleaned out two different book shelves and are passing these books on to anyone interested. I live in North Ravenna in NE Seattle. The climbing guides are generally a few decades old. I have photos of the covers if you are looking for something specific 101 Hikes in the North Cascades by Ira Spring and Harvey Manning 102 Hikes in the Alpine Lakes South Cascades, And Olympics by Ira Spring and Harvey Manning Visitor’s Guide to Ancient Forests of Western Washington Best Hikes with Children in Vermont, New Hampshire and Main by Cynthia and Thomas Lewis The Smiling Country – a history of the Methow Valley by Sally Portman French Rock Climbs by Martin Atkinson (to be clear – this is about climbing in France and not Frenchman’s Coulee) Vantage Rock – compile by Matthew Stanley Shards of Blue – A guide to Ice Climbing in New England by Peter Cole and Rick Wilcox Changabang The Washington Desert A Climber’s Guide by John Eminger and Jon Kittel Northwest Mountain Weather by Jeff Renner How to Rock Climb by John Long Face Climbing by John Long Freedom of the Hills 5th Edition The Climbing Art – Literature poetry and art for and about the spirit of climbing On Mountains – Thinking about terrain by John Jerome Ski Faster, Easier by Lee Borowski The Avalanche Book by Betsy Armstrong and Knox Williams Surviving Denali – A study of Accidents on Mt McKinley by Jonathan Waterman The Games Climbers Play – A collection of Mountaineering Writing – Edited by Ken Wilson Field Guide to Snow Crystals by Edward LaChapelle Snow Sense – A guide to evaluating snow avalanche hazard by Jill Fredston and Doug Fesler Snowboard Know-How by Christof Weiss Everest The Testing Place by John West MD Climber’s Guide to the Olympic Mountains Leavenworth Rock Climbs by Viktor Kramar (white cover) A Climber’s Guide to Washington Rock by Don Brooks and David Whitelaw (brown cover) Backcountry Skiing in Washington’s Cascades by Rainer Burgdorfer (1st edition) Bicycling with Children – A complete How-To Guide – by Trudy Bell Cross Country Ski Tours 1 Washington’s North Cascades by Tom Kirkendall and Vicky Spring Cross Country Ski Tours 2 Washington’s South Cascades and Olympics by Tom Kirkendall and Vicky Spring Breakthrough on Skis – How to get out of the Intermediate Rut by Lito Tejada-Flores Ski Skating with Champions – “How to Ski with Least Energy” by Einar Svensson Exit 32 – North Bend Rock – by Bryan Burdo (tan cover) Rock Climbing Washington – A Falcon Guide - by Jeff Smoot Exit 32 Rock Climbing Guide by Garth Bruce (spiral bound w/ photo on cover) Exit 38 North Bend Sport Climbs by Bryan Burdo (spiral bound w/ photo on cover) 100 Best Routes on Scottish Mountains by Ralph Storer Avalanche Safety for Skiers and Climbers by Tony Daffern Cross-Country Downhill by Steve Barnett (3rd edition, revised and enlarged w/ Steve on skinny skies and steep slope) Stretching by Bob Anderson Snowboard – PSIA teaching manual of American Teaching System Nordic - PSIA teaching manual of American Teaching System A Step Beyond: A Definitive Guide to Ultrarunning Edited by Don Allison

Dear valued member, We recognize this has been an unsettling week for members. The sale of MEC’s business, and the decision to move the business away from the co-operative model was, after all, a very difficult decision – but it was the right one. Facing a stark choice, we chose to preserve employment opportunities, a larger store presence, and a commitment to MEC’s ethos rather than fold up the MEC tent for good. As you may know, this week, MEC filed for protection under the Companies' Creditors Arrangement Act ("CCAA"). Effectively, this was a recognition that MEC was financially insolvent, and in dire need of support to continue moving forward. Fortunately, at the same time, our Board of Directors announced unanimous support for an agreement with Kingswood Capital Management, LP. The agreement with Kingswood will ensure that MEC has a brighter future. We’ve heard your questions, let us attempt to answer them: First, you’re probably wondering, “what happened?” MEC has experienced increasing performance issues since 2016. In July 2019, new leadership was brought in to develop a plan to turn MEC around. We were making significant progress but then the global pandemic hit and exacerbated MEC’s financial challenges. A Special Committee of the Board engaged in an extensive examination of options to address the persistent financial issues. As part of the review, the Special Committee, in concert with expert advisors, sought refinancing from over 65 potential lenders, proactively explored and leveraged applicable government support programs, and examined funding MEC through voluntary member assessments. Ultimately, a sale was the only option that would save MEC from bankruptcy or liquidation. We’ve been asked, “what is CCAA?” and “why don’t members vote on this decision?” Our persistent financial challenges combined with the pandemic created a situation in which MEC became insolvent, and this necessitated a filing under CCAA. In CCAA, the court oversees the restructuring process to ensure fairness. A member vote (or in the case of corporations, a shareholder vote) is not required. CCAA allows an organization to maintain its business ‘in the ordinary course’ while giving it the breathing room necessary to restructure its affairs. This is done to preserve as much of its business as possible for the benefit of employees, members/customers, suppliers and other stakeholders in the communities in which it operates. Many are wondering “why wasn’t the board more forthcoming or transparent?” First of all, we understand that many are upset and apologize for not communicating more or sooner. As a member-based co-op, we know the importance of transparency, and value co-operative principles. But in exercising our fiduciary duty, the board’s top priority was preserving jobs and saving MEC from bankruptcy or liquidation. In short, we prioritized MEC’s survival. Since our founding in 1971, MEC’s deeply loyal members have been synonymous with who we are and what we do. That will not change. MEC will continue, and our values will be maintained, though it may look a little different. Kingswood's commitment to honouring the MEC ethos through their Canadian affiliate and the solid financial footing from this transaction gives us tremendous confidence in the future. The Kingswood team, and the incoming CEO, Canadian and longtime MEC member Eric Claus, are very optimistic about MEC’s future. That optimism was at the heart of the board’s decision to enter into this agreement. For more information see: www.alvarezandmarsal.com/MEC. Guided by the last 50 years, we look forward to MEC’s continued service to communities across Canada enabling everyone to lead an active outdoor lifestyle. Thank you for your commitment to MEC, Judi Richardson Chair of the Board of Directors

Thank you thank you for your efforts to keep us all safe! I've clipped way to many Leepers and home made hangers in Darrington over the years so it's great to see these replaced

The answer is that it is still fenced off although I also saw folks that moved the fence out of the way so they could climb

Since King County is in Phase 2 does anyone know if the Mountaineers instruction wall is open? Last time I went through there it was all fenced off.

Thanks for the info. Is there any relationship with how crowded the routes are and their level of difficulty? I'm happy leaving the easier ones to the crowds if so. In general I prefer to use public transit and walk but if having a car is way more efficient then I'm up for trying. How was your experience renting and driving cars in Italy? Where there any huts or towns you found particularly noteworthy?

Next summer I'm going to be in Europe in the Mount Blanc area to do the UTMB. Since I'm there I thought it would be fun to do some Via Ferratas in the Dolomites I am waiting for one of the guides to the VFs from the library. I'm looking from some beta from folks that have done some VFs there and to try and get a better idea of the experience. I've looked around on the web and most of the sites are geared to get you to hire a guide. I'm hoping to avoid the cost of a guide and to do 2 or 3 fun VFs. I'd be happy climbing 4th class to mid-5th class routes. Information on any particular refugios or hostel/hotels in towns that were stellar (or not) would be appreciated. Thanks

Nice job! John - I can totally related being old and getting my ass kicked out in the mountains. Glad to see that you are still at it. Logan is a really long trip no matter what your approach. When I finally got on the summit after 4 attempts it was in a 100% white out so I'm glad to look at your photos of the views I missed.

It's been 25+ years since I was in the Bugaboos so I expect somethings have changed. It looks like people still are using chickenwire to safeguard their cars. Last time we showed up and stayed at the Kain Hut. This time there's online reservations that show that it's already full. So we are are looking to stay at Applebee campground and I have some questions. Is water available at Applebee? Do people usually boil it or filter it or neither? Is there any day use allowed for the Kain Hut if you aren't staying there? It might be nice to sit at a table and play cards on a rest day. The Hut apparently has outlets allowing for one to recharge devices/batteries. Can non-hut users use this luxury? Thanks for any answers or additional beta that we might find useful

I hadn't heard about the fire - no matter - JBo6 gets them to enjoy

Cleaning out the closets Alpinist magazines 14 (Winter 2005-2006) through 28 (Autumn 2009) in perfect shape I'm in NE Seattle

My partner Curt Feig and I have been talking about doing the NE Buttress on Goode for many years but circumstances never worked out for us. This year we finally found the sweet convergence of weather, availability, health and luck to go climb this classic. There's a lot of descriptions out the route which I won't repeat but I will pass on some beta that we would have found useful if known to us. Quick summary for those with a short attention span: Amazing moderate alpine climb that requires a lot of effort to get in and out. There's a whole lot of mountain. The rangers at Marblemount said they leave the self issue permits out till they open at 7am. They don't. We got there at 6:50 and the permits were gone. Instead we took a number and waited just like at the DMV. I was at the door when it opened at 7:01am and walked in with my #6 ticket prominently displayed. No one else followed me through the door apparently everyone else was content to talk about custom van conversions in the parking lot. Hmmm. I walked up the ranger and waited with my #6 ticket in hand. "Can I help you?" Sure can! We were out with our permits by 7:10. Doing the approach from Bridge Creek trailhead off SR20 converts the adventure from being primarily a climbing trip to a climbing hiking extravaganza. There's a lot of miles to cover. If we had done it via Stehekin it would still consume a lot of time (lots of waiting for boats and shuttles) but that reduces the amount of miles hiked significantly - over 20 miles. Bridge Creek costs less and you have more control over your destiny. In the end, the hiking was fine but we did it in really hot weather going in and coming out which really sapped our energy and kept hydration a constant concern. Bring a Forest Service parking pass as the Bridge Creek trail head isn't in the park. We found no logs to cross the North Fork at the normal crossing point which is described by the endless beta and hand drawn maps. We continued up the trail even when you couldn't see any trail due to the heavy foliage. We continued up till we broke out of the dense undergrowth. At that point we were well right of the normal crossing but the snow field over the river allowed us safe easy passage over the North Fork. We climbed up snow and rock areas to ascend low fifth rock left a water fall to move through the cliffs. We continued angling left towards the traditional bivi areas. Eventually we found a flat spot at 5500' that others had bivied at as well with room for our two bivi sacks. This was before we'd need to either drop down hundreds of feet to continue left or ascend hundreds more to move above. You can gain the buttress on the right without needing to go way left to get on the glacier. However, snow is melting fast so that approach may or may not still work. It did for us and made that section quite quick and easy. Approaching spot to gain ridge The route itself is amazing and stunning. The rock is incredibly well jointed and there is always one more flat or in-cut hold for the entire 3000 feet. You are climbing moderate rock with a pack and thinking that perhaps this section will blank out. Nope - look around, the holds always appear. The beta for the climbing we found the most helpful came from Steph Abegg: "Just stay on the ridge." I felt the climbing kept moving me off to one side or the other but there was always a good way to get back on top of the ridge itself. If you feel like the route is harder than 5.6 then you are off route. Lots of 5.fun climbing on the ridge The views are incredible and we were the only ones on the route that day. It was quite special. We dropped our packs at the notch and climbed to the summit free of that burden - it felt wonderful. The summit bivi looks amazing. There are three rap stations from the summit to the notch. A 60m rope worked well - 55m might be a stretch. There are three rap stations from the notch into the gully. For the second it is better to rap over the rock trending rappers left of the gully as that allows you to finish your rap at the third station. The gully is chossy and tedious but not dangerous like the Bedayn. We were given beta to stay left of the washout and descend the burn. We did that for a long way but it sucked as in unconsolidated soil dusty charcoal dead burnt tree too steep sucked. We eventually came to our senses and traversed to the right side of the washout to the climbers trail. Life no longer sucked. Our beta: as you exit the gully and terrain begins to mellow go right of a spiny ridge and head towards the top of the washout. After that it is just lots of miles, liters of water and lots of pain. Accepting and embracing the pain made it much more tolerable. Gear Notes: 60m 8mm rope - we climbed with it doubled the whole time a set of nuts w/ double of larger nuts single set of cams to 1" 20 slings and 20 biners ice axe crampons we used approach shoes for the hike and climb which worked fine

Photos are in craigslist I have a variety of older screws that from the 1990s when I thought I was going to get into ice climbing but it never really happened. I'm finally cleaning out the closet. Titanium screws have never been placed. Steel screws have placed once or twice for practice but never really used. One photo is of 5 ice pitons (hammer in/screw out) from the 1980s (or earlier) that I'm giving away for free. One photo is of 2 titanium screws that I got for alpine climbing rather than ice climbing. $10/each Two photos are of 4 steel ice climbing screws that Black Diamond knock offs that were designed in the USA and manufactured in South Korea. $10/each $50 for the whole lot. I'm in NE Seattle. I'll ship if buyer covers the shipping.

PM sent about camp ice axe