sepultura
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Posts posted by sepultura
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Sweet Steve! our stupidity is finally paying off!!!!
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Solid work!
I recall the volume of down climbing on that route to be plentiful and exposed!
I remember thinking at the time that It would be a long time before I would consider wanting to repeat it....and that Dallas(Kloke)was probably the only one alive that had completed Lincoln twice. With his passing, now it is Tom who may be the only one with 2 Lincoln summits under his belt. Nice!
I wonder Tom, have you summited Seward yet to complete the Black Buttes?
I am thinking that I may never get that opportunity to complete the foursome if I have to get up that damn Assassin Spire!
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OK, it is true Trent and I have been a bit confused a few times.... descending off American Border Peak comes to mind, but hey whats an extra 4 or 5 miles at 2 a.m.? And then there was that confusion on the Cross Over descent off of Slesse, but who hasn't had an un planned Bivy 10 minutes from the trail? and what about....oh never mind!
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A great day out, thanks for posting! We had a stellar crew
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Wicked, Nice TR, thanks for posting!
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Trent and I skied under the NF on the 14th. Looked thin, wet and out of shape
by my standards. A lot of wet slides as well. Problem with the HWY opening so late these last few years, is that the temps are too high to keep this face together.
Better luck next year.
Trent took some pictures....got some Steve?
We did summit Graybeard via the South side, skied almost from the summit ridge in challenging conditions, it was a warm day.
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Nice work Jason and Kit. And great pics as always Jason.
I like the idea of going up the Park and down the Coleman and rolling all the way to the car. Not sure how Lowell pulled it off, but we had a LOT of transitions doing it the standard direction last year. Either way it is a stellar trip.
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Thanks for the heads up Jason. It would be great if the BC community would rally behind getting this road fixed.
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It is impossible for most of us to go to Mt Erie and not feel the presence of Dallas at the crags. We locals fear a lot of routes will be taken over by the jungle with out
all that Kloke energy to keep things tidy. This is great way to preserve the crags and honor the man. Thanks
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Girth hitch a small loop of twine, something strong like Spectra cord, which can be obtained at a commercial fishing supply- like LFS in Seattle/B'ham, something like 2 or 3mm is strong enough for body weight. If you want to give the twine more rigidity and make it easier to clip, run the working end through some small tubing, like what you would use for fish tank hose. Attach this just above the hand shelf on the bottom of your tools. Then wrap some strong electrical tape like 3M super 33 (which does not lose its strength in cold temps) around the bite of line that cinches to the tool handle. Not Ideal, but keeps you from drilling a hole in your tools and will do the job. Inspect your tape and rigging before each use. If you use thin Spectra or Dyneema cord your hand will hardly know it is there.
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Great pics Jason, I missed this trip report the first go around!
We will have to head back some day.....
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Sounds like the whole thing was going so sweet.... until that whole glissading in crampons thing.....
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Jason, I think the peak in question behind Baker and Rhondda is Mt Forbes.....
I am waiting a confirmation from Lynn.
Thanks for the trip guys! Always good to get on the Wapta! not sure what I would do in those parts if it was not January.
Let shoot for a spring trip!
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Sweet! nice work guys-glad somebody got after this.
A pretty stiff first lead of the season Daniel! impressive I would say....
What grade would you say this climb is at right now?
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Thanks for the photos Jason!
Too bad you were not with us Running Dog- I hope you are still drinking the Brawndo down in San Fran.
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Thats cool! This thing is rarely climbed....any pictures Tom?
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Looks like a full 80 meters to the trees. Skied by it agin yesterday, looks even fatter! it may not survive these rising temps for the weekend though...
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Death Picnic is on the NW face of Table Mountain, 2km W of the upper Mt Baker Ski area parking lot. Death Banquet looks pretty thin.
West Coast Ice by Don Serl has a more in depth description...Looks like its ready to live up to its WI 6 rating to me!
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Skied underneath Death Picnic on Table Mountain today....looks like its ready to roll! a wee bit thin. Just right for some Cascadian hard person.
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Thanks for the great trip Jason and Trent...here is one more shot-Jason cresting the summit ridge.
http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/uploads/3601/IMG_01392.jpg
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Hey Tom, was just skiing below Colfax yesterday(got back fro AK on Monday).
The Polish route looks way thin and sparsely connected, the Cosley-Houston is thin as well, the first pillar is still buried under an apron of snow.
It was really cold up above 7500 feet, probably not much chance of things dripping and freezing under current conditions.
Lets get out!
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A landmark accomplishment Tom! Congratulations. Dallas would be proud.
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The missing list is found! Thanks for digging it up Tom, and putting this to rest.
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Sweet photos as always Steph. We all can start planning that Robson bid again! Ok everybody, stay healthy! That means you Trent
[TR] Spider, S, and Magic Mountains - Standards 7/30/2012
in North Cascades
Posted
You got that right Jason, far to much time on the boat....
Now that I am back at work, I am dreaming of those trips. Thanks for making it happen!