skyclimb
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Posts posted by skyclimb
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Heading up Friday to climb. Curious as to the conditions of the Fuher Finger, and the DC. Thanks.
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JoshK said:
The weather forecast for this weekend wasn't questionable, it was just plain shitty. No reading between the lines was nescessary to determine that a big ass snowy volcano was *not* the place to be. I'm not one to wait for perfect weather, but given a forecast so poor with a high level of confidence, you have to realize what you are in for and change plans. I mean, c'mon, 5k snow level, winds and rain in June...that should tell you the last place you want to be is rainer. The forecast also specifically stated the worst weather events were going to be on Saturday and Monday. I'm willing to say leaving Schurman and heading up on Saturday despite this is stupid. They should have gone earlier (sounds like one group did...and summited) or waited a day. Also, given the fact that they knew they were walking into worsening weather, they should have been prepared to descend in whiteout conditions by wanding the route, etc.
Many people have pointed this out before, but I think when people make plans to "do rainer" (or whatever else) months in advance they will force a climb despite good reasons not to.
Very good point on the permits issue. In my opinion the danger with inexperience is clarity of thinking in "stormy" conditions. Unfortunatly these events will always happen, and will become more common in the coming years due to population increases, and apathetic reasoning.
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Right On!!
Thanks!!
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unfortunatly i have the grind monday through friday, however am considering options for next weekend. Please post a conditions report next week.
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The situation is as follows, a friend of mine owed me and i was paid in rope. The rope is a few years old, and is dry treated. It has only seen top-rope. It is 10.5mm so i will need to get a nice super-dry 8mm sometime in the future, however this will work for now. My main concern is taking care of it, and making sure it is water reppelent before my next trip.
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Debating on using NIKWAX, or any other good alternatives you may know of.
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I lived in Denver, and have ridden Vail many times. Are you doing the triple-bypass?
The problem with Vail and Colorado is the air is dry as well, so you will dehydrate much faster. The key is to get there about 5 days in advance, and let your body acclimate to the dryer climate. You may want to stay in the foothills for a few days, and ride the red-rock trail near Morrison, White river ranch, climb Mt. Powell in the gore range outside of vail near piney lake( Do this in a day for 15-20 miles, and 13,500 feet elevation). Awsome climb this time of year. Vail is at like 8,000 feet. Give yourself 5 days if possible. Also is it a team 24 hour race? I may know of a team that is lookign for two more members. PM me if you need any beta.
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I usually take a toilet paper roll and steam roll an ounce the week before the trip. I then give myself two days to let my lungs start to work again, and it is amazing. It is like training with a 55 pound pack, and then going to a 25 pound pack for the climb. REMARKABLE!!
Patent pending
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Was up on the emmons 10-12, and there was no ranger at the station. Don't know if that has changed, but anything goes, its a free for all!
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Look in the kananaskies lakes area.(period)
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Heading in via pole creek on the morning of the 28th. Planning a 1 day trip of the N. Sister, and possibly the middle. North sister via the south route accesses by the hayden glacier, and the middle obviously by the north ridge. Let me know if N E one wanna go!!!!
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YEEEEEEEEEEEESSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!
Oh yeah, i got a teenage daughter, when did you say that was, and what route??
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SMC, any further questions?? How can you disagree with something so time tested and honored??
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Is it still in? Will it be for one more week?
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I decided on a pair of the REI Sp glacier glasses which are rated a 6 on a scale of 1-6. Tested them for three days earlier this week, and had a great success with them. They are a bigger design than the julbo's but I can get used to it. Eye protection was great. My eyes are still pearly white! They did cost 55$, but i am happy!
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Never ridden this trail or whatever, but if some fuck wants to TRY and give me a ticket he can try to catch me. Its like DUI on a skateboard. What next?? Promote biking to prevent destruction and pollution. What do these measures do?? People who are trapped in a box, and are making rules. Lets see if they are faster than me!!
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After mtb. many miles for many days in a row i find that my legs start to max out. Is there any types of foods that can help the re-cooperation process so i can break the plateau?
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Nice pics. Thanks.
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heat induced hallucinations are key. Doesn't cost anything, and no paranoia. Life just doesn't get any better than this!
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I use one of the blue pads period! I sleep on my sides, but have learned how to stay cofortable with just the foam. The thermarest is WAY to much wieght. Don't beat yourself up, just master your technique. Never had the money for any of that mountain hardware shit! Best i get is MEC>
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Old_Man said:
SMC hinged, XL. Strap-ons...won't roll off an overboot when traversing steep slopes. Put on three buckles...one on each outside post. The inside posts...make all straps that connect to the buckles. With a little practice, you'll be as quick as a clip-on user getting them put on, and climb with more confidence---without the worry of them flipping off. Or as an alternative, go with a "mitten strap" system...or scottish.
http://www.smcgear.net/catalogfr.htm
Givel also makes some too, that are popular and is a good compromise. G12 model...they should fit. I also seem to remember they had an longer bar as an option...
http://www.grivelnorthamerica.com/index2.html
My sentiments exactly. Maybe it is cause i am a cheap, or maybe it is just cause i don't know any better, but I love my SMC's.
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sketchy, never trust money orders. Always use intermediary.
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I have not been on other sides of the mountian, however on the south side Avy gulch i am sure is still in. When i was down there tons of people were skiing it up! I have seen many people also ski the old ski bowl. I personally haven't skiied shasta though.
Anybody going to Rainier this weekend!
in Climber's Board
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leading a party up the DC. Starting the climb first thing friday morning. if can't get permits, then divert to fuhrer finger/wilson headwall.