jefffski
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Posts posted by jefffski
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many a party have been benighted on this climb. it's a terrific climb but requires experience.
jeff
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there's more to it than vo2 max. also recovery rates (fitness), lactic acid carrying ability, aerobic threshold (the point where your body can no longer satisfy its needs through oxygen and begins to use muscle), the percentage of oxygen that your body actually uses, pain tolerance, desire and motivation. all play a part. what did i miss?
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it's a long route with lots of hard parts and exposure. ideal partner could swap leads on any pitch
jeff
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looking for a partner to swap leads with, on angels crest, rock on, (or anything similar), this week.
thanks
jeff
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hi
i'm hoping to climb some moderate routes (8-10ab) in squamitch, anytime this week.
jeff
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looking for a partner to do a nice mp tomorrow.
jeff
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would that be colin c? and nick --new dad?
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When these climbers get to an icefall, burkshard, or a hanging cornice...
burkshard--definition anyone?
hanging cornice--as opposed to a non hanging cornice?
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ever grateful don.
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thank you for the report. you are heroes for doing everything you could to help.
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route beta for crackclimbers
jam right, jam left, step up. repeat.
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at whitesaddle helicopters (think wwaddington) there is a sign that says-paraphrasing
"be careful around the back of the helicopter--rotors are expensive to replace"
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Monstrousoties In Lowslungpants and Frillyunderwear
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I bet that a lot of people don't even know the proper way to set up a weight transfer with tied off munters and all that jazz.
okay. i didn't. but now i do. thanks for your (not so) subtle encouragement.
jeff
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if the knot had to be passed through the belayers device, then clearly the climber would have had to anchor himself to the wall during that process.
i just don't see another way the knot could have been passed.
A prussik, klemheist or bachman knot used in conjunction with a load releasing knot would give one the ability to transfer the load to a cord or a sling. Then one can disengage the belay device, and move it to the other side of the knot on the rope.
Erden.
Thanks. that makes the most sense. but what is not mentioned in the report is how the belayer was planning on making the pass.
i can understand that the ropes were undone without the belayers knowledge, but what system did he have in place?
was he just waiting for the knot to hit his belay plate, attach a prussik from the weighted rope to his harness and then transfer. that is almost reasonable but the coroner made no mention of it. i think the belayers role would be mitigated by his intentions.
i was involved in a serious rappeling accident that almost took the life of a friend. it was partially my fault. only by a careful analysis of what i did wrong did i learn something-which was btw, always weight the rap rope while being anchored separately.
the point here is not to lay blame but to learn
peace
jeff
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from a journalist reporting on an accident:
he did not have his "eye sacs"
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i remember this tragic accident.
however, the report does not make one thing clear.
if the knot had to be passed through the belayers device, then clearly the climber would have had to anchor himself to the wall during that process.
i just don't see another way the knot could have been passed. with all due respect to the coroner and the belayer, this fact was omitted, unless i have really misunderstood something.
comments appreciated.
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a few bolivian beers. you`re on.
yucchh. bolivian beer is almost as bad as bolivian pasta. but everything else is terrific.
check out:
hostal maya on sagarnaga. clean, great beds, tv, pretty cheap.
ocho de agua on fri and sat nites. great bolivian music and dancing.
and
cabeza de condor!
have fun.
here's a news site
http://www.livinginlatinamerica.com/se/archives/cat_bolivia.shtml
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heroic efforts by many to save a life. condolences to his family.
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unlike say rebuffat. multiply his times by 3 or 4!
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squmish is facing similar problems. a week ago friday i returned to my car in the loggers lane parking lot and spoke to a woman parked beside me who had her truck broken into and had the battery disconnected (weird). they took her credit cards and cash. i dumbly asked why she had left that stuff in her car and she replied that she had nowhere else to put it. and get this--she's a local!
live and learn i guess.
angel's crest
in Climbing Partners
Posted
partner, dru as in swing leads, or lead in blocks. sharing the fun.
gotta partner for wed. now looking for thursday or friday. blazing saddles is another alternative.
jeff