Dan_Cauthorn

Rob Newsom?

EMS was dry... I think the snow patch is a victim of global warming. The T-F Traverse takes about 12 hours from the start of Torment to touching down in Boston Basin. I would not recommend the West Ridge Coulior on Forbidden for ascent or descent. It is a mess. The rib to the climber's left is your option. Probably a pitch or 2 of 5th class going up. With another rap station, it would be a great descent, despite the loose rock. It's great to see all the traverses and link ups in the Cascades... as the saying goes, once you've climbed everything up and down, then you start going sideways.

Trip: North Cascades - Early Morning - Forbidden Traverse Date: 7/27/2007 Trip Report: Greg Foweraker and I spent 4 days traversing between Marble Creek cirque and Boston Basin. Along the way, we linked climbs on Early Morning Spire, Eldorado Peak, Mount Torment, and Forbidden Peak. On Friday, we hiked up Eldorado Creek, crossed Triad Col, and desended to the Marble Creek cirque. Camp in Marble Creek cirque below Early Morning Spire and Dorado Needle. The next day we climbed the SW Face of Early Morning Spire. Greg leading the traverse pitch. Weather rolled in Sunday morning, but the forecast was for dry and sunny weather to prevail, so we packed up and headed for the West Arete of Eldorado Peak. Cloud and fog surrounded us all day as we climbed. 5.7 is hard with a big pack! Descending the East Ridge of Eldorado. From Eldorado, we crossed the edge of the Inspiration Glacier and gained the high alpine ridge that leads eastward to Torment Col. We camped just short of the Col. Hiking to Torment Col with Moraine Lake far below. We finished our trip with the Torment - Forbidden traverse. Fog returned Monday morning as we pinballed our way around and up Torment basin trying to find the start of the South Ridge of Torment Thar she blows. After tagging Torment's summit, we began the traverse to Forbidden. The first few pitches are distinctly alpine. Our last night. Tonight's special: Ramen Albacore boiled in snow water. Tuesday morning we continued the traverse After reaching the summit of Forbidden by the West Ridge, we descended that route back down to Boston Basin and hiked out to the car. Future parties may want to add the SW Buttress of Dorado Needle and the Nelson Route on Sharkfin Tower to round out the traverse.

Congratulations on the second ascent! Surprising that it is in shape so late in the season. I think the 5.7 finish to NY Gully is a bit down and left of the awkward corner.

Grade VIII! Wow! When the NW face of NEWS is tacked on, will that make a grade XI? Seriously, I think it was Wayne Kamara that did the FFA of DEB. Not me. The holds are too small.

That would indeed be the fitting final note, but I was knackered and it was dark.

We didn't free climb anything harder than 5.9+ or 5.10- on either route. The aiders were used by both leader and follower on the Lithuanian Lip pitch and on the next pitch (pitch 3), clipping the scary rotten tat until the crack opens up. All the rest of the climbing on both routes is either moderate free climbing or pulling on fixed gear. The bolt ladders on the Direct East Buttress are pretty easy to climb w/o aiders, just yarding off of quick draws. It's kind of fun. And just to set the record straight, I've never been one to "cruise 5.11". But thanks anyway.

Climb: Liberty Bell & South Early Winter Spire-Liberty Crack / Direct East Buttress Link-Up Date of Climb: 9/7/2005 Trip Report: 2005 appears to be a busy season for traverses and link-ups in the Washington Pass area. Here's another: Yesterday, Greg Foweraker and I climbed Liberty Crack on Liberty Bell and the Direct East Buttress of South Early Winter Spire in a 14 hour day. We started up Liberty Crack around 6:30 am and topped out a bit after 1 pm. After descending the regular route on Liberty Bell, we hiked around and up the Blue Lake basin to the saddle next to South Early Winter Spire. Leaving our approach shoes at the base of the South Arete, a descending traverse below the south face of the spire allowed us to access the Direct East Buttress route. We started up the first pitch around 3 pm. The climb took a little over 3 hours. We descended the South Arete in the evening light and hiked out the Blue Lake trail, arriving at the highway at 8 pm, just as darkness fell. A recommended, full value day at the Washington Pass crags! Gear Notes: Cams to 3.5. RP's for the Lip. Many draws for the fixed gear and bolts. Light aidders. No jugs. 1 70M rope.

I too am saddened to hear of John's passing. He was a good friend of mine and we shared several adventures in the mountains. His memory bring back a special time. During the 1980's in Seattle, John was perhaps the most motivated of an exceptionally talented group of climbers who were pushing the limits of Cascade climbing. I don't have many photos, just memories of John blowing us away with stories of his latest exploits, or getting us psyched to try something new and hard. There was a saying, "the psyched one motivates" to attribute the success of a climb to the guy who got up the earliest or kicked the most steps. John was the psyched one. He will be missed.

There is a route called "Slings and Arrows" done by Mark Weigelt, Julie Brugger, and Dave Anderson somewhere on that formation. They climbed it in the late 70's and, as I recall, rated it III 5.10. Given the bad ass nature of the first ascentionists, this could be your route.

Thanks for posting the picture... Pineapple Express is the orange line, New York Gully is red, and LA Express is yellow. Slot Couloir (hidden) is green line. I think that the easier mixed gully to the right of LA Express has been done as well. Here's the pitch by pitch description of PE: P1. AI 3+ R, 200ft. Right facing corner, Scottish style fun! Tree belay. P2. Start up snow, then head up and left, pulling frozen heather into a mixed gully that leads straight to base of steep rock headwall. Belay at tree. M5 190 ft. P3. M6 190 ft. start on right side of right facing corner, steep, but great gear to #3. Follow corner to tree belay. P4. Cimb frozen mixed up and right around to trees. M4 120 ft.(Possible access to Slot Couloir at this point.) P5. M3, 5.8 200ft. Scramble up through trees and squeeze right between the wall and a dead tree stump. Don’t traverse too far right, at 150 ft, pull a bulge (5.8) and climb up to a tree belay. P6. Easy mixed straight up to flat belay at base of huge headwall. 5.4-ish,200ft. P7. 5.2 200ft. traverse right below headwall and belay just before joining NYG. P8. Step right into NYG, follow for 50', then break up through blocks and mixed ground to shoulder. 5.7, 200ft. P9. Low fifth to summit.

Climb: Mt. Snoqualmie, NW Face-Pineapple Express Date of Climb: 2/9/2005 Trip Report: On my third attempt this year, Roger Strong and I finally climbed the line going up the longest part of the NW Face of Mt. Snoqualmie. It starts just left of the lowest point of the face in a hidden right facing corner. 7 long mixed pitches lead up and then right to an intersection with New York Gully. Follow last 2 pitches of NYG to the top. 1000' of primo Snoqualmie pass mixed climbing. We dubbed the route Pineapple Express, grade IV, 5.8, M6, WI3+ R. Gear Notes: 60M rope,pins,nuts, cams, and lots of slings Approach Notes: Straight up Phanthom Slide, then drop into Thunder Creek basin and traverse to lowest point of face.