cman
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Posts posted by cman
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I did the route last year. with the topo and kevbone's beta about the long pitch on the ramp you should not have too much trouble. It is mostly just a long way to climb up and rappel down and the last pitches are cool. the lower part has water running down it so it could be wet right now.
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oops, our initial bid may be rejected!
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There is definitely some rock in those pictures. Not the most inspiring thing i have ever seen but it might be kind of cool to have in your backyard.
We should buy it, i've got $50, do you know 9999 other people?
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Thanks for the info fern. i am headed over there this weekend and the weather looks pretty crappy at the pass so it looks like we will mostly be in mazama. restless native sounds good.
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Does anyone have any Beta on climbing in Mazama. I know about fun rock
and the goat wall. i have climbed prime rib and have some info on sisyphus, restless native and inspiration route.i am looking for info on a newer crag beyond the goat wall? also looking for route info on additional routes on the goat wall. Do the North Cascade guides still give out topos?
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I saw several dogs that were with a group hiking down from lookout point. one of them stepped on our rope while i was belaying NTM, very poor manners but not as bad as being bitten, but they weren't aggressive towards me. one of them was brown, i think.
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i found the same, we did steel pulse and a few at private idaho and didn't see anyone up there. parking in town we saw a party of 4 headed up towards rattletail.
steel pulse was fairly dirty, it could use a little more traffic, and maybe another bolt or two
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i have used a 9.8 and a 7mm static line and it has worked out great. yes you have to pull the 7mm and needs fixed anchors but it works well most of the time. the best part is the climbing on a single rope, which i prefer to double ropes.
we did IB with double ropes and the rapping was easier, also we got a rope stuck and had to lead back up on one of them, something i would not been happy to do on a 7mm static.
no one system is going to work for everything, luckily my partners seem to have doubles when they are required.
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I was wondering about that myself. i seriously doubt that guy who fell in had a climbing permit.
the winter permit seems like BS to me. I would like to see an actual account of what they do with that money before i pay it.
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Watch out at Trout Creek this weekend as well
http://www.chemeketans.org/Crack_Climbing_Clinic_2008.htm
The indoor gym session will be taught by Club Sport climbing gym staff member Gent Mende. Taping for crack climbing, shoe selection, basic hand and foot jamming techniques will be presented. Participants will have a chance to try out the techniques on artificial cracks in the gym. The outdoor session will be one weekend at Trout Creek, where participants will have plenty opportunity to practice "jamming" techniques with various sizes of cracks on top rope.sounds like the perfect weekend for me to check that place out.
Who are the Chemeketans anyway? -
i did that route a couple of years ago. It was a fun route and pretty solid, for goose egg. we did knock one or two large rocks though. did you find any looseness?
we skipped that first pitch so i think it is only 5.10 after that. but overall some decent crack and bolted pitches.
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Sounds like it will be out this spring?
Check out the Burdo Zone http://verticalworld.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=45&Itemid=31&phpMyAdmin=579c467844det1d779064
Sounds like it will be a good one.
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i agree that doubles are great on wandering routes. recently i climbed a bunch with a regular 60 and a thin static 60 for the double raps. It is a great system for a lot of routes, makes the climbing & rope management easier. also if the static is thin enough you hardly notice it in the pack. Rapping is not quite as easy and the system works best with fixed rap stations.
plus if you already have a 60 you can pick up the static line cheap.
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The fixed #4 was a little ways up the crack. I put in my #4 and made a few moves before i got to the fixed one. i was glad i had it but you could fit a #3 right at the bottom and go for it.
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Mark with those mad crack skills. i thought the 4th pitch was hard, i am glad it was not wet on saturday. I agree about the big cams. we had 3 and only needed 2.
we seem to be climbing all the same routes, what are you getting on next?
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Good to see you up there CBS. Little Gorilla and i were the ones camped at near Ingalls Lake. LG had the idea to climb ingalls the next day, which of course we had no motivation to do.
we hiked up behind the 2 car to car guys. crossing the glacier with crampons on approach shoes was interesting. we simul climbed all the way to the pillar, passing everyone and getting up the pillar first. we happened upon CBS and partner chilling on a ledge partway up, they looked a little bored waiting for their second party.
we were pretty tired and pitched it out to the summit at 2pm. after the brutal hike down i was wishing we had camped at the base of the couloir. anyways 2 hrs later and a ton of mosquito bites we were back at camp.
post climb breakfast in cle elum was the place to be. great climb & awesome rock. the pillar had 2 great pitches with some nice exposure.
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you should post some info, i'll check the place out. it is always fun climbing at a new area. I hiked around that area one day and saw the bolts of the shorty sport climbs, WW2 i think?, and figured the bouldering was around there somewhere.
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i was up there about a month ago and it was fine. there is a tree down and a washout right near the end of the road. there is a little turn out that we parked in before the downed tree.
the guide book description is accurate except that you will cross lots of medium size washes. Also there is one culvert almost right in the trail about 5 minutes before the turn off, don't be fooled by that one. Also the trail is a pretty nice trail, if you are bushwacking you didn't find it.
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i did an aid climb last year to those anchors, that smaller roof just below sagitarious finishes right there. granted it was not a very exciting climb but still worth doing for some easy aid.
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yeah it was a little chilly that day. We climbed crimson arete at the end, it was in the shade and hands were numb by the top.
it was pretty windy on wednesday when we topped out on cruel shoes so we did not get the chance to hang out on top, no time for pictures.
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Trip: City of Rocks -
Date: 5/4/2007
Trip Report:
Did a road trip to city of rocks from 4/28 through 5/5. The first 4 days were great weather. It snowed and was colder the last few days but climbing was dry. We warmed up on some sport the first day, met a woman who tried to sell me a townhouse in seattle, after some future discussion it turns out my brother currently lives in her place. after a few laughs i turned down her offer
climber on rye crisp, elephant rock
Climbers on Skyline. We did this one, a super fun classic. It was a little runnout to the top, we found a few climbs like that.
We climbed Cruel Shoes, a 3 pitch 5.7 classic on the large dome rock in the center of the pic.
On the 4th day we heard snow was in the forecast for that night, but the weather was so nice we did not believe it. Our denial ended when we were sitting in the truck sucking back beers and it was dumping.
Castle Rock. We climbed there one day and it is really cool. We climbed a 4 pitch 5.7 and a bunch of other stuff. Tons of route development here. There is a newer supplement to the existing guide, a printout really, that you can get in town.
Twin sister. closed to climbing due to some mormon historic crap
Left on saturday, cold and high winds, and bouldered near shoshone falls.
This is the site of Evel Knievel's historic Snake River canyon jump. That guy must have been crazy, it must be 1/2 a mile wide there
A really fun Trip. Cheap eats in Almo, 2 restaurants now!!, and a sweet hot springs. The camping was pricey, $12.72 a night?. Can't wait to go back and explore Castle Rocks some more.
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You still have those camalots available?
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I'd be into the silver skis race, sounds like fun. we should set something up, quietly of course, when paradise opens up. winner gets some free beer.
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weather can be crap that time of year. raining in the valley and wet snow up high. if you get a stretch of nice weather it can be awesome skiing. Also FYI they have had a low snow year and it has been pretty warm out there recently so expect low to no in the valley.
[TR] Red Rock National Conservation Area - 11/25/
in Rock Climbing Forum
Posted
Nice pics! I need a little sport climbing in the sun. I was there last year but it was too hot to climb at the gallery, looks like some fun stuff.