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bDubyaH

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Posts posted by bDubyaH


  1. duct tape. i should have thought of that. just goes to show that the more education you get the less intelligent you become.

    i climbed a gully on mt bullard in juneau, mostly 60-70 degree snow with some grade 2+ ice. the top of the route was beautiful a hard snow gully from 3-10 ft wide with rock walls on either side. we timed it perfect, as it started snowing partway up the route and now we are supposed to get 18" of pow = death trap on that route. oh, the worst part of the route (other than the 3 hr descent) was taking the boots off at 6am to cross a stream...bbrrrrr.


  2. Hey does anyone know where I can pick up some plugs for the vents on my petzl helmet? I had a few spindrift showers yesterday that froze so much hair to my helmet that I had to wait until the ice melted during the ride home take my helmet off...it was worth it for the 800 meter route we got to climb. smile.gif


  3. Mike,

    Climbing in Juneau can be a bit of a pain. We do have a gym which helps out a lot. "Out the road" there are a few bolted routes that are short and easy. We have some great ice when it is in. There are a few areas that have some potential to be decent rock routes, but a southeast bushwack is a big deterent for most. Our biggest problem is our weather, rain rain rain.

    However, if you are into alpine climbing there is some great stuff to be had. The local hiking peaks are a blast to shoot up in the winter, and they can definitely get you prepared for bigger badder things. Example, a few weekends ago the girlfriend and I got pummelled by 133 mph winds while trying to hike up to a mountainside cabin. Check out this site http://www.rockclimbing.com/links/index.php?PID=115

    look at Alaska's Mountain Magazine and Rain, Heavy at Times. The Mendenhall towers are roughly 500-650 meters of fantastic granite. There are a number of towers all over the Juneau ice field. Plus if you have access to a boat there are a number of huge granite walls coming straight out of the ocean to the south of Juneau.

    So climbing in Juneau boils down to being ready and able to go when the weather/conditions are good. There is tons of unclimbed stuff all over the area. If you have any questions just ask.

    Cheers,

    Ben


  4. jordop~If you were to write a column in Alpinist titled "Get Back in the Car Bitch" I would be happy to extract from my pitiful graduate student pay the cost of a subscription. Even though that subscription price is worth a couple of bottles o' whisky out on the glacier! bigdrink.gif

    Cheers.


  5. Fairweather,

    My buddies flew with TAT a couple of years ago into that area. Actually we always fly with Paul (TAT owner). If I remember correctly it was around $450 for him to fly down from Talkeetna and pick them up in anchorage then drop them off on the ice. Pretty pricey. It would probably be a good idea to shop around a bit with Anchorage/Girwood area pilots. Plus that makes it easier if you have to wait for good weather. Good luck!


  6. Here is a great book about climbing in the area that includes route beta as well as an overall history of climbing in the area. I would bet that fewer than 200 people have ever gone climbing there. Tordrillo: Pioneer Climbs and Fights in the Tordrillo Mountains of Alaska by Rod Wilson, Paul Crews and Lowell Thomas Jr."

    It is kind of hard to find though. May try checking with mountaineering club of alaska

    www.mcak.org.

    cheers!

     


  7. I saw the photo...depressing since juneau hasn't gotten much more than rain. After climbing along the seward highway for a few years I have to agree with the climbing mags status of one of the worst crags. I always found that ice climbing along the road was more fun than the rock climbing is. Always fun to get to yell at tourist for standing under the tons of manky ice you are knocking off. One would think that large chunks of ice falling around you would make you think twice about wanting to stand there to take a picture of my ass. fruit.gif

    but what do i know anyway?


  8. Mid may probably should be ok. if weather is like it was last year it might not be. i was in littte switzerland the end of may last year and there was no possibility of ice/snow climbing. some folks came over from the ruth becuase ham and eggs and shaken not stirred were "waterfalls". oh and don't forget about the million other climbing options if your targeted routes aren't in.

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