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cartman

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    Psychology of climbing

    in Newbies

    Posted

    The above advice and points are solid. Everyone has doubts at one time or another. I do mostly mountaineering, and overanalyzing/overplanning sometimes gets me sick of thinking about a trip before I've even left. Seems to lose some of the mystery and adventure.

     

    Breaking a big trip down into smaller parts and visualizing what/where you need to do and go can help a lot. Occasionally I get a gut feeling about a trip; this actually happened this past weekend, so I didn't go. Today I feel like doing the same trip RIGHT NOW. Sometimes it's just how you feel that day. Also, asking yourself why you're doing that trip can help you decide whether you should go.

    [TR] Logan - Douglas Glacier 6/15/2008

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    Trip: Logan - Douglas Glacier

     

    Date: 6/15/2008

     

    Trip Report:

    Matt, Carla and I went in to climb Logan via the Douglas Glacier this past weekend. We chose this route since it is the shortest way to do this remote Cascade peak, and this time of year is reportedly the best time to do this route as much of the slide alder should still be under the snow. Pics will be forthcoming...

     

    We started up the trail to Easy Pass Saturday ~10am. Snow was encountered immediately, but were able to follow the trail for about a mile before it was lost in the snow for good. We had no trouble getting to the basin below the pass on generally firm snow, then booted up to the pass in bright sun, where we had our first view of Logan.

     

    We bore right and descended several hundred feet before encountering the trail mid-slope where there was less snow. We booted down to the marker near the creek then turned west along Fisher Creek and into the woods, paralleling the creek quite a ways in snow before finally encountering the trail not far from where we were going to leave it to cross the creek.

     

    We found a good log crossing and headed south up valley to the east of the tributary draining the glacier. Note that from Fisher Creek on, this route has LOTS of running and standing water and is going to be Bug Central very soon. In the upper valley is a fair bit of avalanche debris that overall probably made the going a little easier, as it wiped out some of the alder that otherwise would have been obstructing the route. All told, we had no more than an hour of schwacking through the alder, so this was definitely a good time to do this route. In a normal snow year, it would be best done even earlier. Made camp at 4700'.

     

    Except for on the far left, the entire basin below the glacier is ringed by cliffs. Klenke's report on summitpost shows a route on the right up the cliffs, but that looked sketchy. Matt thought he saw a route on snow through the cliff band left of center, and we decided we would try that the next day.

     

    Sunday we awoke at 7am to find low clouds obscuring everything above the top of the cliffs. We kept checking and eventually started to see signs of clearing. We left camp at 9:45 and headed for our target gully; sure enough, it was a good though steep route entirely on snow to the top of the cliffs. We roped up here for the traverse of the Douglas. From here to the top of the distant couloir (which is hidden behind the left ridge of Thunder Pk. as viewed from camp) the route was a straightforward traverse west, staying high under the cliffs and buttresses above the glacier and then directly up the couloir to its top. Very few crevasses were seen. Matt and I swung leads along the glacier to the col, where we unroped and booted to the top of a very small subsummit, scrambled up the next one to the west and saw the summit was yet still farther over. The rock was the usual mediocre Cascade choss with some large loose blocks. Scrambled off this subsummit into a dirt gully, went down ~50 feet, found a short chimney then more scrambling up to the not-very-spacious true summit. We were the first party of the year to sign in.

     

    Rapped off the top bit but in retrospect probably would have downclimbed it. Returned to camp the way we came without incident. Summit day was about 11.5 hours.

     

    Pics here (scroll down): http://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7967618&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=30

    [TR] Sherpa Peak - East Ridge 6/24/2008

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    Trip: Sherpa Peak - East Ridge

     

    Date: 6/24/2008

     

    Trip Report:

    Matt, Carla, Yana and I went in with the fine forecast with the intention of climbing this 8600' summit next to Stuart. The East Ridge is supposedly the easier route but the dearth of beta made route-finding up high interesting. Also, a loose and not particularly aesthetic route.

     

    The trail up to Longs Pass went quickly and is still completely snow-covered for 500-700' down the other side. Good log crossing just upstream from the trail crossing. Then headed down the Ingalls Creek trail to the Beverly Turnpike junction. The climbers "path" to Sherpa is 30' before the junction. This is no path, but an excellent trail headed up the hill, all the way to the first gully where it ends. This gully has a waterfall higher up; we followed it up and exited below the waterfall to the right and ran the ridge to decent bivy sites at 6500'. Interesting note: the ridge above was extensively cairned and marks what appears to be good route to continue on to scrambling Stuart, as this route would avoid the Cascadian Couloir scree-fest since it seems it would join the couloir at its head.

     

    Tuesday morning we dropped down the slope on the east side to the basin (or large gully) and crossed it aiming for a Y-shaped couloir east of the summit block. Entered it at ~7000' and climbed it and then part way up the right-hand fork, then exited scrambling up and to the right to the East Ridge. Scrambled this a ways until encountering a small, narrow gully with slings which had been placed for aid to exit it. Doing so, we dropped axes and crampons and continued easy scrambling west, first along the ridge a short ways then to the left onto the South Face. Then, blocked by an obvious wall, we climbed up from a large bench and over to the North Face where the actual pitched climbing began.

     

    The first pitch is an airy, exposed low-5th class traverse of ~200' across downsloping slabs, then blocks. We decided to belay the leader and last and tie off a line for the middle climbers to prusik across. We then scrambled up to ~100' below the Balanced Rock trying to find a route. No go on the ridge between the Rock and the summit. None of the visible gullies appeared to offer other than high 5th class climbing either. After a bit of exploration, Matt decided on a somewhat exposed and occasionally loose 3rd class traverse across the face to the farthest visible gully, which ran all the way up to the West Ridge just west of the summit. This gully is 4th class; Matt free climbed it and set up a line for the rest of us to tie a safety prusik to.

     

    Summit was now only a 50' pitch away. This pitch had two airy steps across gaps on downsloping slabs, the second harder than the first. Yana led out. After tying off the line, Carla and I prusiked over and then Matt was belayed. Summit register was placed by Mike Fitzpatrick and Paul Michelson in June of 1985. According to the register, Sherpa saw a total of only seven ascents last year.

     

    Returning we belayed/prusiked the summit pitch and rapped the gully. Repeated our climbing back to the end of the first traverse, then rapped down to the bench on the South Face. We also rapped the small gully, setting up a good rap station above the the aid sling boulders. Considering the amount of lichen on the route, it doesn't get done much--not a place to be if it's wet. All in all, a lot of work for a not-so-classic route.

    a donut and coffee

    in Spray

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by iain:

    you're the one drinking something called café au lait and finding sexual innuendos in donuts. I recommend therapy, or at least check out the san francisco apartment market.

    would you recommend castro street [Eek!][Razz]

    just because i used the french translation for coffee w/ milk doesn't make me gay! the french aren't gay. if they were then they would be long gone having failed to reproduce. however, bisexuals can reproduce [Wink][laf]

    it was your preference in donuts, and consuption thereof that was suggestive. devouring the bar shaped donut in one bite (chuggin' cock) vs. the slower consumption of the "holed donut" [Roll Eyes]

    a donut and coffee

    in Spray

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by Muffy The Wanker Sprayer:

    Coffe is an artificial sorce of energy... you realy shouldn't drink it
    [Razz][Wink]

    well literally its a stimulant. consuming coffee for "energy" could be viewed as not unlike consuming beer as "liquid courage" [big Drink]

    a donut and coffee

    in Spray

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by iain:

    quote:
    Originally posted by cj001f:

    quote:
    Originally posted by Mr. Natural:

    posted by dfa:

    -

     

    thats a maple RAISED, not a bar. a far inferrior pastery.

     

    ummmmmmmmmmm....doughnut........

    The hole makes that much of a difference?
    the bar allows rapid consumption by just shoving with hand, kindof like using a wood chipper. This is a messy operation with a round pastry.
    how many sexual inuendos are you going for here

    [Confused] you should just come out of that closet [Roll Eyes]

    shells

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    i have a SD peak bagger that i bought online for under $50... money well spent IMO.

    i went to the patagonia store to try on the R1 pant (on sale at sierratradingpost) and had a look at the regulator jacket. sure looks and feels nice and no worries about breathability... anyone have some experience w/ a patagucci regulator shell in the b/c?

    Hmmm...

    in Spray

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by Greg W:

    quote:
    Originally posted by cartman:

    ... never tasted shit though

    I heard you were into the chocolate trombone...
    his name was mr. hanky, and no it wasn't me [Wazzup]

    Hmmm...

    in Spray

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by trask:

    quote:
    Originally posted by jordop:

    I'm a Canadian and my beer ACTUALLY HAS THE ALCOHOL CONTENT WRITTEN ON THE SIDE OF THE CAN

    Most high alcohol beer tastes like shit.
    i guess you would be qualified to make that comparison considering you are spraying from someone's colon [Razz]

     

    barley wine from boundry bay in bellyham tastes good to me [big Drink] ... never tasted shit though [Roll Eyes]

    vegetabledude

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    "Breasts are basically lumps of fat. What makes them bigger is large doses of the female hormone estrogen. Breasts are, therefore, a symbol of a woman's femininity," he tells Shukan Gendai. "That's why looking at a woman's breasts can help in predicting what sort of character she has and the type of sex she enjoys."

    Hmmm...

    in Spray

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by Dru:

    quote:
    Originally posted by eric8:

    quote:
    posted by Dru
    Who beat your ass and burned down the white house in 1812?

    Wasn't that the British and how many times did we kick there ass oh yeah and we won the war of 1812 i believe to.
    Canada was still part of the Empire then and we whupped your ass in 1812 so bad you have never dared to attack Canada again
    [sNAFFLEHOUND]
    bullshit! didn't you see candaian bacon?! omega farce is all around you [Eek!]
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