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Posts posted by Dustin_B
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maybe if you used hotmail all your problems would be solved?
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Low of -26° on Saturday night and windy. Please post TR if you make it back.
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Nice work! Toast - that is how you should be spending your time off, not sitting behind a computer!!!
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I've been watching these reports as well. We were hoping to head there for Sept / Oct of '06 but are beginning to get second thoughts. Anyone else planning a fall trip there?
I am. I'll probably be there from early November through the first half of December. I cancelled a trip there last year and i don't want to cancel again. I'll be in Tibet regardless though so I can decide when I'm over there.
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Somebody's post about using a firstlight in the cdn rockies made me wonder just how good (or bad) these tents are in wind. I was thinking of trying mine out in the cold and moderately dry Colorado Rockies climate since there won't be any chance of rain. My concern is how it would hold up in the wind since it seems to always be windy in the mountains here.
Anybody try it or have any info on this?
thanks,
-josh
I have a Lighthouse (bigger version) and used it 3 weekends ago on an overnighter in the Tatoosh. There was snow storm that night but the winds probably didn't get over 35 mph or so where we were camped. I had no problems. I've used it in the rain a few times and have never had a problem with it leaking. Its seam sealed in all the right spots.
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This is not directed at anyone in particular, but if you are complaining about rain, then you are saying you liked last winter more!? I mean, its snowing like shit in the mountains, what more do you want??
I pity those that are afraid of the snow and live in the PNW. Must suck to live for those "30 year winters"....
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Are you kidding me? There's not 4 pages of spray about this yet? What a great freaking game!! Do you people live in caves? Helps to have W on your side apparently:
http://sports.espn.go.com/ncf/bowls05/news/story?id=2281349

Hook 'em -
The following is a quote from a relative of a deceased miner.
"Three hours later he come back and said they wasn't."
Ignoring the context of the mining accident, isn't it embarrassing that in a country as rich and modern as ours, we can't get full-blooded Americans to demonstrate elementary-school-level understanding of verbs?
I wonder if there's some more evil underpinning, e.g. mining companies know that they need to exploit undereducated impoverished workers, so there's no incentive to promote education, economic growth, etc., in the area.
Sounds like this person could have used a grammar lesson from good ole W!! W is a "full-blooded American" and he " demonstrates an elementary-school-level understanding of verbs." He is the president so he has to be, like, really smart.

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7 summits my ass! No Carstensz, no 7 summits.

http://www.daniellefisher.com/gallery.cfm
Regardless though, her 6 summits are impressive, as are her two other lesser summits.
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Thanks I have a pair of Nepal extremes for winter and I love them but I would like to get some boots for the other seasons. Do the Evos fit the same as the nepals or did you have to buy a different size?
I actually got a half size larger in the EVOs (12). In my other pair of Trango Ss (non-waterproof version), I had the same size as my Nepal Extremes (11.5) but they felt too short and hurt my toes. I'm actualy probably right inbetween sizes in the EVOs so I comprimised. the 12s feel better when I walk but I have less feel when climbing. the 11.5s in the Nepal Extremes are the perfect size and most all my other shoes are 11.5.
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Anybody at work today?

Anybody physically working today?

Anybody have plans to get out Christmas Day?

I hope I didn't offend anyone with the word "Christmas"

If there was any work going on would we be posting or reading this? But yes people still work on December 22nd.
And I for one am offended by the word 'Christmas'. I prefer it be hyphenated as in 'Christ-mas'. Thank you.

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http://nwac.us/products/SABSEA
MT HOOD AREA-
MODERATE avalanche danger above 4 to 5000 feet and LOW below
gradually increasing Wednesday and becoming locally CONSIDERABLE
above 6000 feet on north and northeast exposures and MODERATE
elsewhere late Wednesday through Thursday morning. Danger further
slowly increasing Thursday afternoon and night, becoming
CONSIDERABLE above 5 to 6000 feet on north through east exposures
and MODERATE elsewhere. Slightly decreasing danger early Friday.
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Treetoad, I haven't used them enough in wet weather to know yet. They climb rock really well though.
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Go find a dirty crack and pound away.
Are you talking about aid climbing here or something else?

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I have a wide foot and own 2 pairs of La Sportiva boots (Nepal Extremes - great boots, and Trango S EVOs) that fit fine. I also own a pair of Scarpas (Alphas) and I dare say the Scarpas fit narrower.

I guess the moral of the story is you won't know what fits you until you try them on!
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Maybe some day I’ll learn to post pictures correctly but until then here are some links to pictures in the gallery from this past Sunday (12/11/05). We went up Snow Lake trail to Millennium Wall to find the “easily top ropeable routes” mentioned in ‘the book’. It was my second time ice climbing and my friend’s first, so we were looking to top rope something although I’m sure it would have been a fun lead for someone (see first picture). After much wallowing, we couldn’t figure out a way to top rope the damn thing, so we had to settle on top roping this little 15 foot flow we passed on the way up (see second picture).
Funny anecdote, as we were packing up from climbing our little beginner-sickle and staring at Snow Creek Wall, a couple walked by and asked if we had just climb it (SCW). We said, “no, we climbed that” and proudly pointed to the 15’ foot flow we had been top roping behind us… guess you have to start somewhere!
Millennium Wall
http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=15410&size=big&sort=1&cat=505
Unknown flow on Snow Lake trail about 100 yards before Millennium Wall.
http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=15413&size=big&sort=1&cat=505
White Slabs route on SCW
http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=15411&size=big&sort=1&cat=505
http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=15412&size=big&sort=1&cat=505
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Okay folks....I know this question has probably been asked a million times but I need to ask it anyway.
Down or synthetic fill for a mountaineering bag? I understand that a down bag is highly compressable, warm, and must be kept dry, and weigh less that synthetics. I also understand that a synthetic will insulate when wet but is bulkier and heavier than down.
So....with that said....for those of you that use down for mountaineering / climbing....how do you go about keeping it dry? You use a bivy sack? If so....what are the best bivy sacks out there? I've been looking at some of the sacks made by Integral Designs with the eVENT fabric. eVENT appears to be better at breathing than Gore-Tex according to the gear reviews I've been reading.
F*ck....looks like I went on too much. SO...down or sythetic. That is the question. What do you prefer and why?
I didn't read the other posts, but I will say this. I can think of very few reasons or places to own a synthetic bag and the PNW isn't one of them. "how do you keep your down bag dry" you ask? simple, a waterproof stuff sac (<2 oz). You keep it in the wp stuff sac until your tent is set up. get in your tent, take bag out of stuff sac, sleep, repack, repeat. its so simple, I really don't understand why people have problems?? maybe I have been lucky that my tent hasn't blown apart during a rain storm? I don't know. It seems pretty simple from my end.
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I'm sure the person that told you his opinion was only trying to keep you safe, he wasn't trying to keep you from having fun. Maybe his advice was legit, maybe it wasn't, but he was just keeping an open line of communication which is what we all should be doing all the time.
A danger with digging pits is misreading what your find, so it can be dangerous (and I'd say downright stupid) to trust your life solely on what you 'read' from the pit. The human, terrain, and weather factors together are more important than the pit and these are the factors you should be making your decision on. The snowpack analysis is only a small piece of the puzzle in helping you make your decision.

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they may all be filled in buy now, or at least the ice may be covered.
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that seems a little long for your weight but it also depends on the side cut. The Shukans a couple years ago were slimmer so longer might be okay with those. nowadays the Shuksans are fat, so you don't need as long of a ski for the same floatation. I have the old model Shuksans in a 185 cm but I weigh 215 lbs with out gear. That length is good for me. You own them now though so I don't guess it matters.
PS - you asked for "any opinion" not the correct one
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my buddy found most of his stuff piled behind a dumpster.
How come it seems like stolen stuff always turns up by a dumpster? Are theifs getting environmental these days and are trying not to litter or something??
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Hi Dustin,
Thanks for your reply. Just to be sure-- You're talking about the Trango Extremes, not the Trango S, right?
Cheers,
Steve
oops, no I was talking about the Trango S and Trango S EVO. guess I need to read more closely next time. I didn't know there was a Trango Extreme EVO. sorry about that.
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Hi,
Does anyone know the difference between the Trango Extreme vs the Trango Extreme EVO GTX? Does the gore-tex make a difference, or is it just more acronyms for marketing purposes? I'm looking for a boot for winter in the Cascades.
Would appreciate hearing from folks who have and use the Trango Extreme.

I have both kinds. The EVOs have a gore-tex liner, the old ones don't. I haven't used the EVOs enough in the snow to find out if they are really completely waterproof, but I suspect they still aren't. I'm sure they will be more wp than the old ones though. They are light, comfortable and climb well, regardless of the waterproofness outcome though.
IMHO they are not warm enough for 'winter' in the cascades. They have no insulation. They are strictly a 'summer' boot for me.
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Wow, yet another reason to visit Vantage. Can't wait for my next trip there.....

Lack of right wing posting
in Spray
Posted
Sorry, I've been busy planning the "W in '08" campaign. Its going well and i have a good feeling he will get re-elected in '08.