COL._Von_Spanker
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Posts posted by COL._Von_Spanker
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The route was a good mixed test piece for me. Do you know much about the area? We climbed some of the spires on the western side of Eldorado, between eldorado and dorado needle, and I can't seem to find any info about them. Nothing like high alpine crag climbing.
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what time will the festivities begin?
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I'd love to see someone flash the viaduct crack in thigh high boots. Talk about a photo-op...
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If you knew what kind of places 'R' place and The Cuff are you would understand...
See ya at the O&T
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Or how 'bout 'R' Place, great for climber ladies.
Seriously though, the back patio at linda's rocks...
I have carabiner pants
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peoples whos lips are the same color as the rest of their skin scare me. ..
![[Mad]](images/icons/mad.gif)
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quote:Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:Right on Col. (saluting)Less rope to manage could be deemed as quicker too.
![[big Drink]](graemlins/bigdrink.gif)
Yeah, Clove hitching twins in a regular locker is a bitch
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What gym do you climb at?
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Yer right CPT. It' not necessary and there are plenty of anchors. It just seemed to go faster, and I'm used to a twin system.
![[Razz]](images/icons/tongue.gif)
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quote:Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:I can't say I would bring 2 ropes for rappels. Nor would I recommend carrying the extra stuff in there.It sounds like you hit some wind.
Twin ropes are the answer. it's easier to split up anyway.
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car 2 car is nice cause you don't have to carry as much crap, especially if yer carryin' a trad rack. Regarding driving home, just remember, if you are suffering on the hike out think how much it will suck driving home.
You can party down at the car, after a car 2 car trip, with lots o food and beer and music, then get waffles the following morning in Little Bavaria
I would usually rather hump the gear up and spend a night in the wilderness, But sometimes car 2 cars is a must.
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fuckin' back button
bring two ropes for the rappel, it'll help. But I had to rap to the end f my rope, untie the shoes that tied to them to get it down with all the wind, and then drop off since they didn't reach.
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quote:Originally posted by Jim:If you're talking about the crack throught the face left of the ridge that goes through black lichen I thought it was a stiff 5.8, but I lack finesse on cracks.
Are you referring to the "first pitch" If so, everyone free'd it, though it was a little tricky with a rope in one hand.
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quote:Originally posted by Jim:If you're talking about the crack throught the face left of the ridge that goes through black lichen I thought it was a stiff 5.8, but I lack finesse on cracks.
Are you referring to the "first pitch" If so, everyone free'd it, though it was a little tricky with a rope in one hand.
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Great day huh? I was one of the twoin the party that was behind you. Did you take the direct route on the final pitch? The guide books said there was a 5.4 chimney and I looked for it didn't see it so I went direct, it seemed to go at 5.8ish. After doing some research I read the 5.4 chimney is to the right, but that seemed to drop off the s. face.
The weather coudn't have been better.
I wa glad I brought my down jacket. I see why they call them belay jackets.
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Anyone for stone gardens tonight? I'll be there between 7 and 8. Then to the sloop to sloopersize it.
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I work in the east, but this sun sets in the west, thus I can possibly give a ride to, but not from
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quote:Originally posted by Crackbolter:quote:Originally posted by COL. Von Spanker:I wa glad I brought my down jacket. I see why they call them belay jackets.This is when you are supposed to say, "I was glad I brought my 800+ fill goose down Feathered Friends down jacket with Epic by Nextec shell fabric. Man, you guys gotta get one!!! I see why they call them belay jackets"
Yeah, that's what I meant.If my jacket doesn't have the patented Feather Friends proprietary YKK hood zipper can I get one added on? I am planning on doing the half-bag jacket combo.
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Gotta love the alpine start. Did I see you in the lot? We also had the same departure schedule, and bumbed into a party of two going up that route (we were heading up prusik).
We sure got lucky with the weather up there Huh?
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There is no new snow to be had. The old stuff might be a little treacherous if you are heading up dragontail, though certainly doable. What little snow I came across near the lakes above asgard pass was VERY hard throughout the day, so if yer doin' a route that heads up the snow you may want to bring some screws.
The weather was great, but blowing hard on and off all day, probably about 25mph on Prusik, and blowin' REALLY hard coming down Asgard.
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Does anyone else have the trango s'. I have a pair and really like them, though I am curious how cold I can go before I switch to my plastic foot anchors.
They are good on vertical bergschrund top-roped ice, though they have a signifacant amount of rocker, but it hasen't been a problem yet. Great ankle flex for those who be diggin' on the french technique. On the approach they do great as do they on rock (up to about 5.7 alpine shtuff so far).
How cold can ya go?
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quote:Originally posted by fern:are carabiners cast? I was under the impression that they were forged, stamped, extruded, bent etc into shape?What do you mean by 'suffer a blow' ?
Drop a rock on one, drop the bean, close it in the hatch of yer subaru legacy and I reckon it has suffered a blow.
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This site is like crack in that i all the BS usually frustrates me, but I find myself coming back for more.
I have even recently registered, after vowing that I wouldn't.
Chorizo Please
![[HORSECOCK]](graemlins/HCL.gif)
Eldorado NW couloir conditions??
in North Cascades
Posted
As of september 14th there was no Ice or snow and due to the still warm temperatures and conditions lately I would speculate there is no Ice.
If you want a fun route try the west(?) ridge, but not the one in the nelson book, it's not in any books. It's sort of a mixed climb and really fun. Here is a link to a site of someone elsewho climbed it and actually took the time to post about it
http://www.mtnphil.com/Eldorado2/Eldorado2.html