joepuryear
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Posts posted by joepuryear
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I'm trying to post a rather lengthy TR with lots of pictures. Everything shows up fine in the preview, but when it is posted, it cuts out the last several pics and text. Is there a size limit to posts? There actually isn't a lot of text and all of the pictures are linked from my CC gallery. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
(I tried the little help ticket thing, but nobody is responding.)
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For the old Arctis Expedition - standard boot liner. Used maybe once or twice before I switched to the aveolite. Basically in new condition. Size US 11.5. Pick them up in Leavenworth and they are yours. Email joepuryear at hotmail. Please no PM's.
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Cool, thanks for your help!
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Hi, I'm trying to get a hold of Ben Kuntz (sp?): a Seattle climber, works for Microsoft, Canadian citizen, girlfriend is Lindsey. If anybody can help me get in touch, I'd greatly appreciate it. I've got some photos for him.
Thanks,
Joe
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Hey all,
Glad you are getting out and enjoying the routes. Just a quick note on bolt placement there. That type of igneous rock (a type of andesite?) is pretty tricky to bolt. Bolt placement is more dictated by where there is an area of solid rock, not necessarily by where the bolt should be placed in relation to a move or crux. The rock is very "platey" and we were very careful to place the bolts in non-hollow sounding and non-fractured areas.
Have fun out there and be careful!
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Ah man the weather was beautiful the whole time and hardly any crowds either. That seems like a good time to be there, we had nearly every route to ourselves and sometimes entire campgrounds to ourselves. It definitely started to pick up though as soon as spring break happened. We got lucky with the wind too - I've heard the stories - but it was calm the whole time.
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Thanks guys. Hey that route on Washerwoman looks great. Some friends of ours headed out to do that the day we left.
Yeah the Priest is definitely a must do next time I'm down there. -
I don't remember a 100 foot runout on Off-Balanced Rock, but perhaps I avoided it by climbing into the chimney right off the belay, only recommended for the tiny and flexible.
Fern - yeah I just did it the stupid way. One guide said to climb the outside edge of the chimney, which has no pro whatsoever and is probably harder than the 5.6 they say. After I got down I read another book that said to go all the way back into the chimney and follow the crack up - that definitely sounds like the way to go.
if you haven't climbed it yet, next time your down there, put lightning bolt cracks on the north six shooter on your list.That looks like a great route too and was next on the list for sure - can only climb so much in two weeks - can't wait to go back and do more.
Awesome TR Joe! You ever going to get around to writing one for the pencil?We're still working on editing the video footage
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Trip: Utah Desert Tower Tour -
Date: 3/20/2007
Trip Report:
My wife Michelle and I just returned from a two week trip climbing desert towers around Moab, Utah. Overall we had a great trip, climbing 11 routes on 10 towers (actually 9 towers and 1 mesa).
Our first stop was Arches National Park. We decided to warm up on Off Balanced Rock, North Chimney (5.7). The 100-foot runout on the second pitch was a little unnerving but luckily the chimney was fairly secure.
Here's a shot of me taking a picture of Michelle coming up the chimney:
On top of Off Balanced Rock:
Next stop was the obligatory Owl Rock, Olevsky Route (5.9), definitely a must do tower for anyone visiting Arches.
Michelle rapping off:
That evening we hiked out to Delicate Arch for the sunset.
Next it was time for the Fisher Towers.
It rained a little the night we got there, so climbing Ancient Art the next day was out, as climbing dry mud is bad enough. Instead we did the really cool hike through the towers and out to a viewpoint.
Later that evening it seemed to dry out enough to give Lizard Rock, Entry Fee (5.9) a go.
Leading up:
Michelle on top:
The next day we headed up to do Ancient Art, The Corkscrew Route (III 5.10d)
The route climbs up the central chimney then up the highest point on the left.
Following the first bolted crux:
The summit has to be one of the top five coolest spots in the world that I have been.
We came back down and I decided to give a go at The Cobra (5.11 R). I mean, how much longer is this thing going to be there? I had to get it while I still could.
Chalking up under the lip:
One more day in the Fisher Towers and we wanted a little bit more, so we climbed the Kingfisher, Colorado Northeast Ridge (IV 5.8 C2).
Kingfisher, the route ascends the left side of the tower:
This was actually Michelle's favorite route of the whole trip! Not because the climbing was that great - mostly a bolt ladder with a few very C2 mud placements and some good free-mudding. But the overall line, exposure, and summit were fantastic.
Looking straight down the Northeast Ridge:
Summit views - The Titan, Echo Tower, and Cottontail Tower:
Next stop was Castle Valley. We of course had to do the obligatory route on Castleton Tower- the Kor-Ingalls (III, 5.9).
Castleton Tower:
The route follows the central dihedral:
The line is good, but the climbing leaves a bit to be desired. The crux offwidth is only cruxy because they tell you to bring so much god-damned gear up the route and you have to squeeze up the thing with all this crap. In reality you only need a number three Camalot and 4 quickdraws to lead the crux pitch. Anyways, cool summit.
Michelle coming up the crux OW/Chimney:
The Rectory came with many recommendations, and although it is a mesa and not a tower, it still has a tower feel and is a really cool desert formation.
The Rectory is the Mesa in the foreground, the route climbs directly up the facing wall:
We climbed Fine Jade on the Rectory (III, 5.11a). The first two pitches are the crux and are both interesting and sustained. The warm up pitch is a steep but short 5.10d hand-OW-hand crux.
Michelle following the first pitch:
We hiked across the Rectory to watch some climbers on the Honeymoon Chimney of The Priest.
Climbers on Fine Jade, The Rectory:
Later that afternoon we decided to climb the North Chimney of Castleton Tower (III, 5.9), as many people consider it the better of the two moderate routes. The first pitch was ultimately classic. Two parallel cracks, mostly hand jamming, and interesting moves for an entire 150 feet. The second pitch, however, was mostly junk and I linked all the way to the notch in exactly 200 feet.
Michelle following the first pitch:
The next mission was Sister Superior, Jah Man (III, 5.10c). Another fine desert route, with a stout but short crux on the 3rd pitch. And one of the finer chimneys in the area - the Sister Squeeze chimney on the 2nd pitch.
Sister Superior:
Up close:
Looking down the 3rd pitch:
On the summit looking toward Castleton and the Rectory:
And for the final hurrah we took the long drive out and climbed Moses, Primrose Dihedrals (IV, 5.11d).
Moses is the tallest tower:
The route is everything it's cracked up to be - short but sustained pitches, interesting climbing, and an awesome position.
Michelle coming up the 4th pitch:
Pitch 5:
Summit success:
Gear Notes:
SuperTopo: Desert Towers - a great guide for these routes.
Approach Notes:
High clearance 4x4 recommended - even for parking lots.
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Here's what it looked like about 10 days ago. You could easily drive all the way up to the high point - the road was snowed in beyond that. Temps were plenty warm enough for climbing. Looked like less snow that normal.
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Nice pics! I'll agree that a lot of stuff is in good condition, but I'll say that Zenith is not in the greatest. Started up it with a light rain coming down it and by the time I was half way up I was greeted by a small stream. After battling up the wetness a ways and becoming completely soaked to the bone, I decided to bail. This was early in the morning Sunday, so without some really cold temps, I don't suppose it will get any better. The cable was also a bit drenching but not as bad. Also we think we saw someone on the climb across the lake you have the picture of (I thought it was Tea in the Sahara, but I'm not sure). Is anyone going to fess up to this?
Edit: Here's a shitty pic of it, but there is an unmistakable climber-like figure on the left side of the 2nd tier.
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Hey Dan, I've got your screw, got the pitch, and I've got a good story to go with it. email me at joepuryear at hotmail and I'll get your gear back to you.
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letsroll, I camped at the notch a few weeks ago and I was able to go down the couloir to the east (toward Icecliff Glacier) and collect snow from a snowpatch about half way down. It was a huge chunk of snow so I'm sure its still there. It's about half-way to the glacier and there is at least one tricky chockstone to climb around. Took about a half hour round trip to bring up a big stuff-sack full of snow.
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Mark, I remember one of the belays being a #5 offset and a blue Alien, and maybe another mental-anchor-backup nut. Definitely bring some small gear.
As far as the rockfall goes - I've studied the route carefully since climbing it and there is a gigantic rock scar high above the route in addition to a lot of loose blocky terrain directly above. It's kind of a crap shoot for sure. Be careful and climb fast!
That said, those 5 or 6 pitches are some of the best I've climbed in the area (except for maybe the Dragonfly headwall). The rest of the route leaves much to be desired - good route-finding needed for sure.
Have fun!
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magnetic style, black case - from Seattle Vision Clinic.
PM me.
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Thanks everyone for coming out and showing support. Had a great time doing it. Good to put some faces to avatars. The new venue room at Feathered Friends rocks! Definitely an awesome space for future shows.
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bump...
See you tonight!!!
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Yeah, went up last weekend. Check out our Mt. Rainier blog for current conditions. We'll be keeping it up to date and should have some good pics posted in a couple days:
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Thanks you guys. The guide book is finally here and is shipping now. I'm really psyched how it turned out - amazing how the full color enhances a guide. See you at the slide show at Feathered Friends on the 17th!
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Mammut Schoeller Women's Pants, Size 38. Worn only a few times, excellent condition. $70 + shipping or pick up in Leavenworth. Please no PM's. Email: joepuryear at hotmail dot com
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Zoran - that is the best deal on the SuperTopo site. Afterwards, you'll only be able to get either the print book or the ebook for the same retail price. If you'd like to get a personally signed copy - check out my site.
Thanks for your support!
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Hello good friends of cc.com!
Well a lot of you have been asking about it and my new Alaska Range guidebook is finally done, printed, and on its way. A big thanks to everyone here that helped out with the project. More info about the book Alaska Climbing can be found on the SuperTopo website: http://www.supertopo.com/packs/alaska.html
Or on my website: www.cascadeimages.com/home.htm
If you’d like to preview some of the book and one of the climbs – the Cassin Ridge on Denali – check this out: http://www.supertopo.com/freetopos.html
I’d love to hear what you think of the book. I invite suggestions, corrections, or updates either here or on the SuperTopo forum. Thanks!
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Climbed Drury yesterday. Its in pretty solid and the approach is hard-packed with low avy danger. Should be in for a while longer if it stays moderately cold. Lots of other flows are formed up in the drainage as well.
Hubba-Hubba is fat too, with several flows on either side.
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30 days would be a good amount of time to allow yourself for the entire trip to Alaska. As far as the route itself, if you are planning on doing it expedition style and acclimatizing on route, 2 weeks or less is plenty. If you are acclimatized and fit, the route can be done in 4 to 7 days round-trip from base camp.
[TR] I Love the Desert - 4/28/2008
in The rest of the US and International.
Posted
Trip: I Love the Desert
Date: 4/28/2008
Trip Report:
This spring I was fortunate to make a really fun desert Southwest tour with my wife Michelle and a few other friends. We visited Colorado, Utah, Arizona, and Nevada. During the trip I climbed 32 desert towers and a half dozen other routes.
First stop was Colorado National Monument. It was pretty cold, but we managed to climb Independence Monument, Otto's Route (III, 5.9).
Colorado National Monument, with Independence Monument on the right:
A close up:
The route was pretty "cool" with snow all over the ledges,
But fun none-the-less. Love the history of the route with all the manufactured holds and staircases. You can see one of the staircases in the pic below, and Michelle is grabbing on to an old pipe hole:
With temps dipping down to 10-degrees, we decided to head farther south to the Moab area.
We did a quick climb of South Six Shooter, South Face (II, 5.8). On South Six Shooter Peak, with North Six Shooter in the distance.
It snowed on us, so dreaming of warmer weather we decided to head farther south into Arizona. We had long wanted to climb in the Superstition Mountains outside of Phoenix.
The Superstitions. The Hand, the Tower, and the Prong are the first three towers on the lower left. The larger Grandfather Hobgoblin Spire is on the right, but blends in a little with the cliff behind:
The rock at the "Supes" is really interesting, some kind of crazy conglomerate. The protection is often sparse, and when there are bolts, well...
One of those plant towers:
The first day we did a collection of towers on the northwest side of the range. We climbed The Hand (5.6), The Tower (5.8 R), The Pickle (5.4), The Periscope (5.4R), and The Prong (5.6). All of them were unique little climbs and summits. Very cool.
The Hand:
Here is Michelle at a small belay on The Hand. The 3-pitch route we climbed was called the Razor's Edge and the climbing was on a 3-foot wide, steep ridge crest:
The Tower had 25-feet of unprotected, overhanging 5.8 climbing to start the route, then a long and thoughtful 5.7R pitch above that. It felt good to get on top of that sucker.
The Pickle was fun - it looks steep and hard from the base but it really is only 5.4. The climbing is on huge cemented together conglomerate rocks.
Michelle rapping off the Pickle.
The next day we woke up for two more climbs of Grandfather Hobgoblin (III, 5.9), and the really fun North Buttress, Spider Walk (III, 5.6).
Here is Grandfather Hobgoblin, the 4-pitch route climbs up to the notch on the left, then right up to the summit:
Looking down at Michelle atop the first pitch:
View from the summit out towards the suburban sprawl:
After rapping down we went directly over to the North Buttress. Spider Walk takes an improbable looking line (for 5.6), meandering up 4 pitches of run-out slabs, with hard to find bolts, then up a chimney/crack system up a very cool feature.
Here's a shot of the North Buttress. The route starts on the left side, then works its way up to the chimney near the top:
Michelle following the second pitch:
At the end of the route, you can scramble up to a high spire that overlooks everything.
A final sunset:
Next stop was Red Rocks, Nevada.
We spent a few days climbing Dark Shadows (5.8), Frogland (III, 5.8), Sour Mash (III, 5.10a), then met with our good friends Chin and Raleigh and climbed Eagle Dance (III, 5.10c A0) and then a twisted variation of The Gobbler and Yellow Brick Road (III, 5.10c) on Black Velvet Wall (this to bypass the cluster on Dream of Wild Turkey's and other routes).
Hiking up to Eagle wall:
Me leading the second pitch of The Gobbler, with Raleigh belaying:
Michelle following Sour Mash:
All in all we had a great week in Red Rocks, with splitter weather and pretty moderate crowds.
Next stop: Zion. I really love Zion, and this is partly why:
We only had a chance to spend two days here. The first day was a bit of a lazy day. We rode up canyon in the shuttle and climbed The Pulpit, Original Route (5.9, C1) - a cool little spire at the end of the road.
Here's Michelle following the one and only pitch:
Day 2 we climbed the Iron Messiah (III, 5.10) a 10-pitch route on the Spearhead. You gotta love chimneys to like this route:
High on the route (see Michelle at bottom of crack and shuttle bus below), the second to the last pitch was a stellar 200-foot corner.
It had been a few years since visiting Zion and I was really psyched to climb there again if only for a couple days. Michelle had to head back home and my buddy Jim flew down to meet me for some climbing around Moab.
Our first stop was the Bridger Jack Towers in Indian Creek. In two days we climbed Sparkling Touch Tower (5.11-), Thumbelina Tower (5.11), Sunflower Tower, East Face (III, 5.10), Easter Island Tower (5.10), and King of Pain, Vision Quest (III, 5.10+).
Shadow of the Bridger Jacks on the desert floor:
Jim's picture of me leading Thumbelina, a great single pitch of 5.11, and a cool spire to boot!
Jim's picture of me leading the first pitch of Sparkling Touch:
The King of Pain. Vision Quest climbs the split between the two towers:
Here's Jim in the 5.10 slot on Vision Quest. After this pitch, I won't disagree with the guidebook description calling the route "burly".
Jim taking the lead on the last pitch of Sunflower Tower. South and North Sixshooter can be seen in the distance.
I was psyched to finally climb on these towers. The ease of access, quality rock and routes, and relaxing atmosphere made for a great couple of days (and a great warm up for Jim!)
Next we headed into Canyonlands National Park. We stopped by the ranger station and got a permit to camp down on the White Rim for a couple days, then later that afternoon we climbed Washer Woman, In Search of Suds (III, 5.10+). The route was super-classic just like everyone said it would be. Gotta be one of the most unique looking towers in the desert. Can't wait to see what it looks like when that chock stone falls out!
Washer Woman and Monster Tower:
Looking down from the last pitch, with Monster Tower behind:
Jim's pic of me leading the final summit block:
Gotta love that rappel!
Next we headed into Monument Basin.
Our first objective was the ultra-classic Standing Rock, Kor Route (III, 5.11). You can tell this route gets climbed a ton because there is no loose rock or mud typical of the area to speak of. I can only imagine what it must have been like on the first ascent.
Jim's pic of me leading the great roof (way easier than it looks from below):
Jim following the second pitch:
That afternoon we climbed the Shark’s Fin, Fetish Arête (III, 5.10c R). This route doesn't seem to get as much traffic and one gets a taste for some more authentic Monument Basin climbing. This picture was taken from Island in the Sky. The route follows the lower angled right side for 5 fun pitches:
Jim's pic of me starting up the first pitch:
I thought the 1st and 3rd pitches were more R rated than the 5.10b R second pitch according to the guidebooks.
Jim rappelling off of Shark's Fin - awesome rock striations:
....continued...