eric8
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Posts posted by eric8
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I think you could get some air time on the routes at the mesa verde wall too. But I don't know I have been to smith in 3 years
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Spank the Monkey Arete
Dreamin
Full Henious
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reread it, it was not a ff2
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Wew…..that only took about an hour before some person on here would discount what I wrote. Would you feel better if I changed the title to big fall instead of huge?
I would've.
On seeing the title Huge fall at Smith:
first thought = hundreds of feet
second thought = then it would have been "fatality at Smith"
I was thinking 80+ or fatality too...
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Actually, this year I have seen the busiest days at index I have ever seen. I guess it depends on what your climbing as the main part of the lower wall had folks on almost every popular route from model worker to thin fingers.
Edit, I actually had to wait to get on a non 5.9 route that wasn't thin fingers...
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Agree lots of Brits not many Americans. Maybe a Canuck or two
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The Thin Fingers slab feels impossible and totally sandbagged. Then you see how to do and its 11a.
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anything within two letter grades isn't that big of a sandbag.
What about heinous Bosch
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Thanks guys, keep them coming. Sorry about the grade restriction I am looking for routes to get pumped silly and make me commit, make me wonder if I have the juice to place...routes that hurt. But you can post easier ones too or routes I won't be touching this year or next ie never never crack.
I must be remebering things wrong because I don't remeber grand daddy overhang to be overhanging at all or I have been spending to much time bouldering so my definition of overhanging is skewed. And Easter Overhang felt like 1 overhanging move
Anyone done Rising Expectations at Smith?
Sol I ran into Mrs. Sol the other month at Index she said you where down in the desert sounds like quite the trip you got going. I should quite my job.
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Pumpline 11b, leavenworth
It's 11a and not overhanging. That one move at the top doesn't count.
How about Carnival Crack, overhanging 10D offwidth.
Its okay I wouldn't call Poison balance, Grand Daddy Overhang, Perry's Lieback, or pressure drop overhanging either...
Air roof good call guest I will finally have to go find and try that
Blake that does sound like a cool route. Is astroledge the one you can only reach by climbing Alaskan Highway?
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cool sounds like I will have to make a beacon trip later this year
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So is Astrologger good? I don't own a squamish guidebook but I remember reading about multiple hand size pieces so i was thinking it must be pretty steep. Was it clean.
alaskan highway would be another one too I guess. Though I'm pretty sure it would chew me up and spit me out at the bottom.
Ryan probably just wants to know about Mastodon so he can TRY to talk me into leading it for him.
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Kevbone and the rest of you, is Beacon and Broughtons Bluffs worth a weekend trip for someone from Seattle? Remember Squamish is the same distance and index is a 1/3 of that.
Is there camping? Recommend routes? What is the Beacon season?
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that omak crack looks awesome.
Anyone done the Serpentine crack on Liberty bell? I have heard 10+ to 11+...
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Is "A swingin Affair" The thing left of exotic dancer? I did that a several years ago, I few steep hand jams then your done?
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thanks, though I guess I should have specified I routes that are just truly overhanging not just vertical routes with little roofs... but I totally forgot about earwax thanks
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Roman chimneys
anyone done astrologger?
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From 10d to 11d. By local I mean Index, Leavenworth, Tieton, Squamish, and I suppose Smith but only if its really a classic.
Marginal Karma
Debs Crack
High planes drifter
others...
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Castle is also nice because there are basically no sport climbs.
Das Muzack is the only hard route I have ever seen people on at Castle and its bolted. Unless you count DDD which is a top rope probelm and requires even less due paying.
Almost all leavenworth crags have about a day worth of climbing on them if you get after it, with the exception of Midnight and SCW. The best climbing in leavenworth is actually bouldering...and I don't even boulder so the top crags
1. Forestlands
2. Mad Meadows
3. The Icehouse area
4. Midnight
5. SCW
6. Pearly Gates
7. Rattlesnake rock
8. JY boulders/crag combo
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mine would be
Supercouloir Mt. Blanc du tacul
Beckey Chounaird- south howser
West ridge of prusik
As far as the whole whats moderate. Most weekend warriors can obtain 5.11 and wi5 in a couple years but few of these ever climb this level on grade VII or even grade VI. I think if your going to include grade VI routes you should probably drop it done to 5.10 A2.
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I don't think i have ever felt sandbagged at squamish but certainly come across some soft ones
Grand daddy overhang
peasents route
arrowroot
seasoned in the sun
10d pitches on unfinished sympthony
birds of prey
And... the spit pillar always feels like 5.9 to me
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Sorry for the thread drift but Jens the last part of your statement is simply incorrect.
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Blake (or anyone), did you end up climbing his new route on SEWS this fall?
Huge fall at Smith
in Spray
Posted
hmm, i just read the part about nobody naming anything besides latest rage. So I throw out the only ones I knew. I don't really climb in Oregon but I could name several routes in Wa where 30fts are possible. And not just obscure routes either.