quote:
Originally posted by Paco:
The beauty of leading trad with half ropes is that the impact force on the gear is reduced and that you can minimize fall potentials. I think that using half ropes is a great way to safely push your trad climbing limits. .
I have to second this opinion. While climbing on a set of half ropes, one is really setting up two rope systems. If one fails, the other one is there as a back up and has not been loaded or stressed. When a piece fails under a loaded situation, the rope might not have the time to disipate the energy and recover its elasticity before another shock is initiated. A set of twins gives a climber that cushion.
Long runners are a must on marginal placements. I typically leave all my sport draws behind on an apline outing.
SImulclimbing- On my last trip to NR of Stuart, we used one 50m 8.5mm rope. Light enought to travel fast. I tied into both ends and Ade tied into the middle with a figure eight. It was an idea that I had found here. This worked great. Keep us close for communication. Gave us two rope systems between us. Reduced rope drag and we didn't have to climb with any loops of ropes around our necks.
-Mike