JoshK

Hey all, I'm down in the Salem area for a wedding on Saturday night and a fellow wedding attendee and I want to climb on Sunday. Does anybody have any recommendations for some fun climbing anywhere around that area? If it's on the way back to Seattle, that'll work too, I just don't want to way out of the way to Smith or something. thanks, -josh

bcollins, as I replied to another post, when we did the NR a few weeks ago, I did it in tennis shows, strap on crampons and a superlight aluminum axe. The snow was soft as teh weather was warm. If I, personally, was doing it again, I would probably leave the crampons, but that's just me. I actually found the snow from the false summit to the top of the cascadian coulior more sketchy than crossing the stuart glacier. -josh

I've never done what you are suggesting, but I have climbed from the la bohn gap side of hinman to nearly the summit. The "summit" of himan is basically a long flat walk from that point over what is on the map as a glacier but I think is pretty much gone. If you end up doing a one way trip, that side of hinman (la bohn gap, la bohn lakes, necklack valley) is really beautiful. I spent a day up there exploring alone and had a wonderful time.

Oh, and it's probably also worth pointing out that I found the snow coming down from the false summit to cascadian couloir (assuming you are descending that way) considerably steeper than the stuart glacier. There was enough of it that I bet it's still there now. You are also most likely going to be quite tired by the time you cross it and you'll have to downclimb it, rather than go up it. I'm only pointing this out because *I* was tired and ended up slipping when some soft snow gave out beneath me. I had to arrest and got kinda cold from that little event. Not the most fun thing to do after a long day climbin.

I did the NR of Stuart a few weeks ago and crossed the glacier from goat pass using some Goretex tennis shoes, strap on crampons and a full aluminum axe (a cassin ghost, about 9oz). The crampons were nice cause kicking steps in tennis shoes sucks. If I, personally, were to do it again I would either leave the crampons or take some of those cool lightweight aluminum ones. This was in warm sunny weather , so even in the morning the snow wasn't very hard. -josh

5.5mm Spectra x about 25'(??) feet has always worked well for me. It's always long enough, even when you have widely spaced pieces in an anchor and I can just double it up if need be.

...not a bad deal if you're looking for a new pack in that size range. -josh

I'm thinking of climbing Prusik peak this weekend. Being a popular peak, I'm afraid even with the permits the route might be a clusterf*ck. I've been in the area many times, but always off-season. Am I better off going elsewhere? thanks, -josh

I'm pretty sure I'm doing Sahale peak this sunday via sahale arm. Anybody been up there recently? I'm wondering if it's worth hauling my skis up with me. Also, I've heard the summit rock described as everything from 3rd class to 5th class. Is it worth protecting?

Hey matt, thanks for the info. I just realized I should have clarified a little better. I planned on either climbing the northside *or* skiing the south side, not carrying over or anything like that. :-) Looks like the weekend this weather is going to be quite warm, so the chutes seem like an option. Any clue where I could get some more info? thanks again.

Hey all. I'm looking to do something solo on mount adams this friday afternoon through saturday. Since I'm soloing I'd like to stay away from the glacier routes. North ridge looked decent (will it still be mostly snow at this point?) for a solo climb. I was also thinking of skiing the south side but not sure what conditions will be like now. Any advice? thanks!