RikRik

Lambone - climbing ain't fishing. If someone on this site dies because this guy says he is comfortable with hanging belays and gear (made sure of this before we started on the main pitches), but has no concept of gear anchors (was truly shocked when he reached the first belay and there was no bolts) - what then? Is that all part of the game of climbing? Screw that - would rather appear petty on this site and possibly save someone's legs, arms, or neck.

"You talking to me?" [ 07-23-2002, 02:07 PM: Message edited by: RikRik ]

Wow - two pages on this subject. Enough is enough, but wanted to get my dog's picture up on the site. eric - wasn't going to trash him, but when i started getting reports (now up to three) on this guy, general safety is a bit more important than tactfulness. I got no problem going and doing 5.7 single pitch routes for a day or two - just like getting out and can learn something wherever. But this guy just ain't receptive to mentoring. He just wouldn't admit he was uncomfortable with something even after repeated falls. Here is an edited excerpt from one email i received: "just thought i'd add my horror story to your list. Climbed with him ... and the cruxes were over his head, even though he talked confidently about doing it. He tried to lead one crux, fell about 10 times and finally lowered down and said it was too tough for him. It was really no problem for a 5.9. He got to it following me and grabbed the rope and hauled his way up that way. This was his way to get through many of the semi-difficult parts... Constantly throughout the day, I kept hearing up rope even if I was holding him on a tight belay. As soon as he would move, he would say up rope. After awhile I was very uncomfortable with him belaying me and was tempted to head back down. But I figured I could pretty much solo the rest of it, if I had too. He even got off route about 2 or 3 times when he was leading." Mehrdad: as far as wanting to retreat - yeah sure. I was afraid for my future continued existence on this plane. And yeah i run it out a bit on 5.4-7 areas, but on a hand crack that is fairly uniform in size gear conservation for harder sections is the way to go. And how is it that you were pointing out the holds to me when you didn't lead a single pitch? Actually pitbulls come in rather handy. Ever in a crowded area, get up early, chain the dog to the route, and then go back to bed for awhile. Happy climbing all. [ 07-23-2002, 02:04 PM: Message edited by: RikRik ]

Regardless of MEHRDAD or kainsacad - i am still looking for someone to climb with this week. Don't really want to discontent myself with the new and improved bouldering in Bellingham. Maybe some seracs at Baker.

Apron = Squamish = normal to soft ratings. So, i have received two other reports (horror stories) concerning this guy. As one said "An accident waiting to happen." Strange thing is is that this guy really thinks he can climb. After falling and being hauled up each pitch (at least my fore arms got a work out pulling him up) he still insists that he feels comfortable. Throughout the climb there is a constant litany of "up rope, up rope" at each and every step. Gear belays - "What's that?" Even at Skaha this guy would still be a 5.6-7 climber max and definetly not a leader. Just going on about this because he is really going to get someone else hurt or killed. Needs to stick to single pitch or top ropes for now.

Camera? Where you guys been? It is Camcorder so my partner can capture all my wonderful dynamic lunges and leaps. I'm a regular Tom Cruise up on the rocks.

So what/where kind of 5.10's are you free soloing? I'd like to come and watch.

Long shot - Lost a trango #8 cam in Squamish on Saturday. Either on St. Vitus or at base of Snake or somewhere in between. Thanks, R.

Don't want to trash anyone, but could have developed into a rather dangerous situation. No problem with being a novice 5.6-7 climber who wants to work on first trad leads, but don't tell someone you want to work on 5.10a-d leads and set off on a multi-pitch climb. So his name is kainsacad or Mehrdad. A nice guy and all right to travel with, but leave the ego at home.

Once again looking for a partner to hit something this week. Doesn't matter when or where. 5.8 - 5.10. Trad, sport, crag, multi, alpine, snow, glacier. Only thing i ask is for you to be generally honest about your abilities. A bit unnerving to get up on the Apron and find that your partner can't place a cam. R.

Anyone up for some climbing Fri, Sat, and/or Sun. Squamish, Leavenworth, Darrington. Whatever. R.

One day Mickey Mouse drags Minny into court. The Judge asks "What is this all about, Mickey?" Mickey says "I want a divorce." The judge asks "On what grounds?" Mickey replies "Insanity, your Honor." "How's that?" asks the Judge. Mickey replies "Everyone keeps telling me she is fucking goofy." [ 06-13-2002, 03:19 PM: Message edited by: RikRik ]

Anyone interested in someclimbing over next couple of days? Possibilities - Baker North Ridge one day, Darrington (east side sounds too hot), whatever. Richard 360-527-2810