for me, strap-on crampons on approach shoes worked well for the short-ish traverse on Stuart glacier (and ice axe, as indicated above an unmitigated fall would be costly).
two summers ago there was an over-cammed #4 Camalot stuck in the Gendarme OW--looked like a 3.5 would work fine. of course the hex is lighter, but perhaps less readily 'walked'. I used a big booty hex, don't know which number. as i recall the crux is short and difficulty quickly moderates. the Gendarme definitely adds to the climb. have fun!
[ 08-09-2002, 04:12 PM: Message edited by: lunger ]