Layback

There are all kinds of cool badgers. I looked at my profile. I have a lead belay certification badger, a top rope certification badger, an intermediate climbing class badger, and a basic climbing class badger. The last badger is really puzzling because I never took the basic class but I'm all about badgers. I think my TR of Willis Wall provoked the climbing committed to remove my climb leader badger because that furry critter appears to be missing. My apologies to my pirate friend. It's better on the outside Steve. You get to laugh at the ridiculousness of the introverted engineers who make dumb decisions like this one.

Not a joke: https://mountaineers.org/volunteers/leader-badges/leader-badges

Sad news. I climbed Das Toof with Tyler back in 2011. He's pictured on the left in this photo: And here's another one of him shouldering an enourmous pack for Das Toof so that his rope mate, who weighed about 100 lbs soaking wet, wouldn't have to carry the rope: I was very impressed with his climbing ability and willingness to help others. In the brief time we spent together I felt strongly that he'd be someone I'd be willing to share a rope with on other, more committing climbs. Regrettably that never happened. Rest in peace Tyler.

The problem isn't specifically guns or laws. The problem is that our society has eroded to a place where this is happening more and more. I had already forgotten about the Oregon Mall shooting when my mother in CT texted me this morning to share the news with me. Had this not been in my home state I probably would have shrugged it off like I did Virginia Tech. We're all getting numb to this sort of nonsense. 50 years ago if there was a homicide it was BIG news. Now homocides are commonplace and we rarely hear about them unless they're nearby. When was the last time any of you raised an eyebrow when you heard that someone had been shot in Seattle? So while guns aren't specifically the problem, and the fact remains that tighter gun control couldn't have prevented this, I submit to you that there are a lot of other murders and school shootings where tighter gun control could have made the difference. That dude pulled the trigger because someone already took violence to a level where it was imaginable to shoot up a high school or a college. It became thinkable for the Columbine gunmen to commit mass murder because someone else had raised the bar. More gun control means less murders means the bar won't get raised as quickly. I'm all for second amendment rights but there has to be a place where right to bear arms and right to safety meets in the middle. Clearly nuclear weapon aren't specifically accounted for in the second amendment yet we're not permitted to posses them. Regrettably, I believe that we're at a place as a society where school shootings are here to stay. I'm sad for my kids and the lack of freedom they'll enjoy as a result.

You certainly didn't finish on an "easy" peak. Nice work. I'm hoping to either finish on Colden via the Trap Dike in winter or on Whiteface in summer so my kids and parents can drive the auto road to the top and meet me (and my wife) with a big cake and some booze. Two different options on either side of the spectrum but both equally intense endings to what has been a very long, calucated, time-consuming, awesome journey. As you all were...

Since we're sufficiently off course, May I ask which ADK peak you finished on? I'm up to 18 (been working on the list for 10+ years). Bagging those suckers from WA takes a long time...

I dont like the idea of tent platforms for guided parties. Sleep in the snow like everyone else. Also, I'd like to see guided parties restricted from use of Ingram Flats. Their large, semi-permanent camp detracts from the wilderness aspect of that camp and sadly they need to be asked to be quiet while those who are real members of the climbing community sleep and prepare for an unguided ascent. The behavior of the guides and clients this Friday evening was disheartening.

I had a similar experience via the other approach and yet it remains one of my favorites. Weird how the suffering later turns into something special. Congrats.

Well said. Congrats on a fine accomplishment Josh!

Trip: Unicorn Peak - South Side Date: 7/7/2012 Trip Report: On Saturday myself and 4 other Seattle Mountaineers climbed Unicorn Peak via it's classic route on the south side. There's some great low 5th class climbing with great exposure on the summit pyramid. and an even better ski descent with good coverage for all but the final 500 or so vertical feel currently. Gear Notes: Small to mid-sized cams and nuts and a #3 camalot were all useful.

I didn't get a good look at it KK. Sorry. I know there was a party camped out last night, who looked to be having a fun time, that was planning on attempting it today.

Since you ask, those are my skis on his back. I had a shitty morning. After spending all day on the toilet on Wednesday I was a little dehydrated. I vomited and started cramping up so I quit skinning and just walked in. He was cool enough to hook me up.

A group of 6 Seattle Mountaineers including myself climbed SEWS yesterday via the SW Couloir. Fantastic snow conditions throughout much of the climb with thinning snowpack at the top of the 50 degree section with a little 4th class "mixed climbing" above. This was the first alpine climb for a couple of these guys and one I'm sure they'll remember for a long time. Go get it while it's still good. My guess is that there's enough snowpack up at the top of the couloir to last another week or two at best (to make conditions worthwhile). My pickets were bottoming out at the top of the 50 degree section. Bring 60 meter ropes for the rappel or be prepared to bury a deadman for the final rappel.

Nice work guys.

Nice work. If I'm not mistaken you've been trying to hit this for a while. Congrats.