HeadSpace
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Posts posted by HeadSpace
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spys like us
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anyone have any current beta on this climb; old bolts?, pro to 4"?, pitch 4 complete or not? not interested in grade difficulty. just compiling tick list notes, thanx........
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hey crackbolter, I really think you've lost it.
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i tr'd it while Tony had a rope on it. should you come off the crux, the only thing keeping you off the deck is a #1tcu, the rest of the gear is absolute crap IMO. a mandatory onsight, should someone consider it. Congrats to T for headpointing it.
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planning on purchasing a couple in the larger sizes. i'm interested in first hand knowledge; placing, removal, falls taken on them, any tricks in riggin them. thanks.
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something entirely different eh? clip..clip.clip.....
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this van needs to go. has alpine cd player with 2ways in front and 6x9 speakers in back. $450 and a 6pack of stout. come on all you seattle dirt bags, it WILL make it as far as Index and back!
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87 MITZUBISHI VAN. $650.00 cash. rebuilt motor with 20k on it. does burn oil. add about a quart every fill up. good tires and brakes. couple of small dents. white ext. with brown int. new tabs. sold in "as is" condition. pm or email me. be kind.....
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mmmh, yummy, do you like
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that flake has tighted up some since the earthquake, just yard on it.
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5.11 NO ROPE OR HARNESS INDEX OR RATTLETALE WHAT THE FUCK?
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here's my two cent's that i'm sure nobody will like. step one: drill 5/16" holes, make them shallow and really low to the ground, insert 5/16" r.b.'s and equalize. better yet, just drive some rebar into the dirt and tie off. or even better, just free solo well below your limit, wear a walkman and rock out to TOOL while climbing. Fuck, just grab a partner or consume copious amounts of
before setting off. 
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pierre's polaris in kenmore, wa. has new tracker avy beacons for $260.00. thought it was a good deal, just passing it on. 425-488-8600. wasn't there looking at beacon's though, vroom-vrooom!!!!!
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one thing that is certain, is there are no "ordinary moments" while climbing, no matter what the specific disipline.
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try "perscription for nutritional healing" kind of a all encompassing reference guide.
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frank'ly, i enjoyed it with the bolts. my first flash of a sport route at index. what's up with the bolted hand crack on angorro grotto?(circa three years ago)
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ushba basic ascender. no teeth to ding your rope, cams like a grigri. you can also down climb with it, with relative ease. i paid $70 canadain from onsight in squam. i think nelson sells them as well.
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you're actually going to get a job, are you kidding? come on, move to bellingham, what the hell? oh, by the way how was canmore?
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the heading "RETRO" was in reference to retro-bolting. if mitch, whom i do not know, chose to post uner this thread, i'd welcome his comments as much as anyone else's. let me say that the o.w. had seen a previous ascent, there was a pin at the top of it and i clipped it, at that point "purgatory" goes left. micth's line goes up and right at the pin if i'm not mistaken. i wasn't trying to fan any flames around here. this was a topic i had brought up with some friends this season. just looking for a broader opinion base and i sure did get one. all things being said, i'll let the chips fall where they may. the gear worked for me, it will work for someone else. thanks
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if the sliders failed you'd take a small whip. i just feel the climb may be out of character with the rest of the area and a bolt would entice peolpe to try it. hey ,i'm baised what can i say?
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i would agree, a bolt over a pin would be bomber. the route would likely see more traffic with a bolt in place. anyway it's just a crag climb . thanks for the comments.
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the climb is a the pearly gates. viktor's preliminary topos call it "plucking the harp", it's going in the guide book as "purgatory". as far as i know it has only seen 2 ascents including the first. it starts in a o.w. climbs up 20' and traverses left on a finger tip seam taking blue and purple tcu's for 10' or so. you get a .75 cam in after the traverse, pulling the roof is where the sliders go in. i think the gear is good, but how many people carry sliders around anyway? the o.w. through the roof is 10+.
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wondering what the going opinion is on adding a bolt to a climb i had cleaned and led on natural gear, said gear being two equalized sliders(red&gold) protecting the crux. any suggestions?
FOR SALE: Arcteryx Theta LT Zip Pant
in The Yard Sale
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sweat deal, thanx.........