Juan
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Posts posted by Juan
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Cool! What is your tele no. and regular e-mail again?
John
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I need a solid partner (or two or three) to join me on Goode N.E. Butt. June 25-27, weather permitting. I have climbed the N.W. Butt. in 1995 but want to do the classic route.
Please PM me here, or e-mail me at jsharp@windermere.com.
I'll carry the whiskey, you carry the rest.
Just kidding about that last part,
John Sharp
Bellevue
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Great TR. I did that one by myself last June 17, the day before my 41st birthday, in a day door-to-door from Bellevue. We were up there the previous weekend (June 12-13) to do the Adams Glacier, and camped at one of the moraine camps below that route. A storm blew in Sat. night and hammered us. The same storm nearly killed four guys on Lib. Ridge (recall the long TR) and did kill the two guys behind them (from MT) who were likely blown off the ridge. I later met one of the four who survived the storm on the summit (ER Doc Tom Burke from CO -- we were at the same wedding in late June in Leavenworth last year -- small world).
By contrast, my solo day out on the NR was wonderful and sunny. It's a great route when it has snow on it. Not hard, and very pretty.
Way to go,
John Sharp
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Good job Tom. Maybe we need a category for the over-40 climbers. You're in that group right?
Sharp
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Guys:
What is the normal approach and bivi spot for that route? Does one go all the way to the basin below Stuart Sherpa Glacier? I'm guessing not -- if that is right, at what point do you leave the valley bottom while you are next to Mountaineer Creek? Any info would be helpful.
Thanks,
John Sharp
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Awesome. I have ideas . . .
Juan
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Who wants to do a fun aun alpine route Sun./Mon.? My wife may let me go play. Thought I'd cast around.
e-mail me at jsharp@windermere.com
John Sharp
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Jim:
Which John? I don't think I took a good shot of the NW Face on May 1 when we climbed it. I'm sure it's getting thin by now -- much more so than when you did it earlier this year.
Sharp
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Jason:
You are right about the rhyme. Maybe a PT Cruiser is not so bad after all!
John
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Too funny. I think all of men driving the cars we passed were wearing bad hair pieces. Go figure.
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My thoughts on this great climb:
(1) The steps put in by Gyselinck and Rasta Climber Dude really helped speed things up, but we weren't clear on where they went on the rock climbing portion based on what they told us;
(2) The route is in perfect shape now, and should be for several more weeks I would guess;
(3) The way that Jason (Heinrich) and I took for the first of the two summit block pitches was an ugly grunt, but at least we made up for it by scratching frantically up the final short crack pitch. Only Kurt made it look pretty with crampons;
(4) I may be old, but at least I never stop complaining about it;
(5) Please shoot me if I ever join the PT Cruisuer Club of Washington. Remember: Cruiser rhymes with loser.
Cheers, all.
John Sharp
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P.S. Julian: Good luck in AK. You guys will have fun.
Juan
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Thanks for the beta guys. I'm thinking, based on all reports so far, that this was the first warm spring weekend when so much stuff slides. Seems to happen every year. Hopefully things will harden for this weekend.
Cheers,
John
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Did anyone go up there this weekend? The rangers told me you can drive to MP 21 or so. How much snow is still hanging around on J'Berg, Cascade, etc.? Still winter or is it spring?
Thanks for any beta you may have.
John Sharp
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Dan: I've seen your ass, and it's not fat. It's . . . well . . . it's tight, Dan. And I mean that in the best heterosexual kind of way.
Sharp
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Good job Kurt. You ready for AK?
Sharp
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Would "Direct Doug" be Doug Walker?
Sharp
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Yeah sure, Wayne.
=;-)
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I just read this latest issue quickly while on the pot last night, and I did not see Fred Beckey mentioned anywhere. Did I miss something? Nice piece about Colin Haley in the up-and-comers, though. But note that he is the only alpinist in the group.
Let me know if I missed something. Maybe the fumes were getting to me. But it seems like the emphasis is too slanted toward Yosemite climbers. I'm going to write the editors and bitch just for fun.
Woozily yours,
John Sharp
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Hmmm. Thanks for both responses. They certainly are light and they rock climb well. For once in my life, I'll try to work with what I have -- using the paste -- instead of springing for the new ones. Yet.
Thanks again,
John
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I bought some of these at Second Ascent last summer before the addition of Gore Tex. I love them but for the fact that they leak like crazy. This fact has been noted in various publications. I have worn them maybe twenty days since purchase.
Marmot carries the new Evo version with Gore Tex. Can anyone tell me whether this is a meaningful solution to the problem; if it is I will get them.
Thanks,
John Sharp
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Way to go Colin and Marko. You are my alpine heroes.
Sharp
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Dark grey Jetta. I almost stopped and walked up to talk to you, but I had to be in Bellevue at 9:30 for a meeting and was tight for time.
I'm glad you did the route! I was trying to find a partner and couldn't get anyone, so opted for the easier Wy'East. It was fun, but the Reid looked much cooler in your pictures.
Keep up the good work; hope to meet you in person some day.
John
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Sky:
I was pulling out of the Timberline parking lot on Friday morning at about 4:45 a.m. and saw someone get on the snow and start heading up hill. I slowed down for a second, then headed off. Was that you?
John Sharp
Goode N.E. Butt. June 25-27
in Climbing Partners
Posted
Hiking from Rainy Pass as I understand it. But I'll call the ranger just for grins.
John