Juan
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Posts posted by Juan
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Earlier this summer I found a well-worn black nylon camera bag with blue trim in the gully leading up to the W. Ridge of Inspiration. There was no camera in the bag, but there was a Lexar 512 mb card in its plastic case. I have not looked at the images. If it's yours, contact me at jsharp@windermere.com.
John Sharp
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I have a full set of issues 1-16 in great condition. I never bought issue 0, though. Any interest, please e-mail me at jsharp@windermere.com.
Cheers,
John Sharp
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Wow. Assuming this is recent, I'd like to report to the proper authorities that someone stole the snow route. Amazing. Thanks for this!
John
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Does anyone have a clue whether the std. N. Face route on Buckner is still accessible? Big schrund at the bottom? Can the snow be skirted on rock easily enough? Any recent beta would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
John Sharp
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Hurray -- you can finally take this off the list!
Way to go.
Sharp
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N. Face of Buckner in a day Wed. sleeping at TH? Crazy idea?
John Sharp
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After arriving in Calgary to the start of a stretch of unstable weather (beginning July 30), Brad Platt and I scuttled our plans for Mt. Temple E. Ridge (bear restriction -- we were a party of two) and Robson Kain Face (no point in trying this past week -- bad weather and too much new snow, we heard) but did manage Silverhorn on Athabasca on Tues. 8/1 (two tools and steel crampons for the ice, but no rope) and Stanley Peak, N. Face Kahl Route on Sun. 8/6 (two tools, crampons, six screws, and rope).
Silverhorn has a crack at the bottom that was easy to cross on 8/1. Stanley's N. Face is very broken at the bottom. We found a way through that was reasonable -- but won't be for long. The face itself was almost all ice and really fun.
We made it to the big bench on Edith Cavell E. Ridge on Thurs. 8/3 in three hours from the car, but were thwarted from even trying the upper section by 1' or more of new snow on everything, icy rock, ugly cloud on top, and threatening weather. It looked like an epic waiting to happen, so we downclimbed. Bummer.
Thanks Joe McKay for the beta prior to our departure. We'll be back next year!
John Sharp
Team Pansy
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Ran into "two guys" planning W Ridge of Inspiration? Man, Richard, where's the love?
Did you hear us yelling to you when we were on top of McMillan and you were on Degenardt?
W. Ridge gully on Inspiration was nearly dry (snow would make it much, much easier) and deemed too dangerous, so we bailed after 60 meters with one piece of pro.
After three trips in there since 1987 with only the N.E. Ridge of Chopping Block and three trips up W. Ridge of McMillan to show for it, I think my S. Picket days are over.
We hiked out Sunday after McMillan and got home late. Glad you guys had fun -- sorry about Inspiration.
Cheers,
John Sharp
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Hey:
I had to park at the gate after talking to the road cleaner guy Friday mid-morning. They weren't ready for cars at that point. By the time my wife arrived and bumbled around, the gate was open, so she parked at the TH. Were you on the route?
John
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About 10 of us climbed W. Ridge of Forbidden on Sat. 6/24 and about 12-15 yesterday from what we could tell. The gully is fine -- some holes appearing as mentioned above, but nothing major.
J'Berg N.E. Rib is in great shape from what I could see. The gash below the arete has plenty of snow which will allow people to rap in and climb it instead of doing the harder 5.8 ("5.3") rock variation to the left.
Cheers to all,
John Sharp
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That being you?
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This is an interesting TR. Doug Walker and I did the route in 2002 (Feb. I think). I led the first pitch and had to move from left to right above a small schrund on mixed terrain to get to the wall/corner on the right, which took two pins and a cam, I think. I kept going and did the leftward traverse that you describe. It was thin and sugary and I was really focused. I remember that Doug was climbing at that point because I think we only had a 50-meter rope. A fall by either of us would have sucked. I got to the trees and set up a belay at an exciting, cramped spot where you can look down the face. The rest of the route seemed easier -- two pitches to the N. Ridge, then we simulclimbed to the top. We rapped the S. Face. I think it took us 4.5 hours total from the base to base to pack up and snowshoe out. I think we had just enough firm snow to make it work, but I don't remember very much ice at all. Seems like a VERY conditions- dependant route. You should go back and do it.
Cheers,
John Sharp
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Yeah, Big Four is the kind of peak that easily allows two winter routes in a weekend. With a lot of Red Bull I suppose.
=;-)
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Dan:
It's not clear from your TR whether you enjoyed this trip. Did you like the route?
John
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These are good ideas. Alas, new real estate clients e-mailed this morning and want to see houses Thurs. Duty calls.
Go get on Hood, someone.
Cheers,
John Sharp
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Hey Jens: Any sense on the viability of the Dry Creek Route? I've done it in July, but not with snow cover.
Thanks much,
John Sharp
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Yeah, but the only guy I know who has done it in a day is Colin. Solo. The only thing I have on him is the ability to grow a full beard.
What do you think, Dan? One-day for an older gentleman?
John
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With high pressure on the horizon, the inevitable question comes up: If you have a day to climb later this week and a gung ho partner, what would you do in WA or northern OR?
Anyone know about Chair, Eldo Couloir, or other stuff that might be in/doable in a longish day?
Your thoughts will be appreciated.
John Sharp
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Thanks so much Michael. I had a great time with you and Kris -- it all went beautifully.
I helped Daniel Patrick Smith and spouse Rachel buy and sell in 2004, and helped Dr. Jay 4X4 (Jay Goldberg) sell in 2005 as well. There's no group I'd rather represent than climbers. That was true when I was a lawyer, and is true now as a realtor with Windermere.
On the East side of the state, people should call climber/ex-N. Cascades Ranger Geordie Romer at Windermere.
Cheers,
John M. Sharp, J.D.
Associate Broker
Windermere Real Estate
Bellevue, WA
(425) 765-7747
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Hey Daniel: What do you think the recent snow fall will have done for this route?
Thanks,
John Sharp
Bellevue
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You bear lovers should all read Nick Jans' excellent book titled "The Grizzly Maze." It is the Timothy Treadwell story in all its glory. I just read the part about the attack itself last night. The recovery team found a grand total of 40lbs. of human remains on the ground after the mauling/eating of Timothy and his girlfriend. More remains were found in the tummy of Bear 141.
Another great book for animal lovers is "The Devil's Teeth." Great white sharks off the CA coast. Awesome book by Susan Casey.
Cheers,
John Sharp
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Twoshay turtle!
Hey Kurt -- could you photoshop in some more tan on my white face?
Julian -- sounds like Doug dragged you guys up Serpentine at Mach 3. Fun I'll bet.
Juan
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Yeah Kurt -- Julian showed me one picture he took of you with your hand in your shorts. Long day, eh?
=;-)
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Not bad except that he owns a house. I represented him in the purchase. I called Ken (the author of the article) and he politely agreed to print a correction, which should be in the next issue. Fred has slept on many hundreds of couches, but he has been a member of the "landed gentry" for two years now (and was so once before as well).
Cheers,
John Sharp
Chair Peak Conditions
in Ice Climbing Forum
Posted
After way too many months of parenting, my wife and I want to get out this weekend. Does anyone know whether the N. Face of Chair is well plastered with ice/snow at this point? I would think so, but thought I'd check. I saw a "non TR" but nothing else.
Thanks much,
John Sharp