jordop
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Posts posted by jordop
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It's freshying outside my window right now in Vancouver. I can't concentrate. Snow in May
![[big Drink]](graemlins/bigdrink.gif)
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Here's a picture of the NE face of Dag from an account of the first Canadian ascent of the North Face by Shaun West and Pierre Kaughman in 2001, published in Kootney Mountain Culture, a magazine I seem to get every few years from Snowpack Outdoor Experience in Nelson
[ 05-02-2002, 08:35 PM: Message edited by: jordop ]
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Mulvey Basin does not exist. It is a fantastical assemblage that Terry has obviously put together using shots from Kyrgystan and the Sierras. Okay, if you have to know, it is in the Valhallas outside of Nelson, BC. The 4500' face on the left is the N face of Mt Dag, its NE face is HUGE and the entire N. side contains only three routes: "Sweet Judy Blue Eyes," put up by Roskelly et al in the 70s, and "Ankles Me Boy"/"Ankles as Far as the Eye Can See", both aid routes put up two years ago; see this year's AAJ. The opposite side of the cirque out of view is just as impressive. What keeps most suitors away is the three day approach through bug and grizzly infested swamps. That and the rock is absolute choss!
![[Wink]](images/icons/wink.gif)
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Trollin, trollin, trollin
Keep those doggies trollin
(instead of the usual "on belay bullshit, I have now taken to informing my partners, "Rawhide in G. Watch for the changes")
p.s. Did I mention were on a mission from God? (Actually from Guinness)
[ 04-29-2002, 12:40 PM: Message edited by: jordop ]
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Hey, who's the clown that recommended that pic on bivy.com? You guys got in the way of some good McBride Range scenery in the background!
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I wish I did have a pair
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I wish I did have a pair
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C'mon, I know there are hapless mountaineering loners out there with nothing better to do than go on a collosal suffer fest-I mean ski traverse. Come see terrain that few people have ever seen, lose some weight, earn some alpine snobbery points, and in general gain an appreciation of all the wonderful things like beer and Squamish that most people are smart enough never to leave in the first place. No seriously, it will be pretty cool. We know you're out there, we know where you live, and we know you are reading this right now. Join the team, and have a really good excuse to drink pitchers of Baldwin/Coopers when you get back.
[ 04-28-2002, 08:33 PM: Message edited by: jordop ]
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Yeah, the one thing TNF has got going for them is there "we'll take anything back" warranty. I wore out a pair of trail shoes (no real defects or anything, just wore through them) so just for fun, I sent them back through the shop I was working for and, sure enough, a brand new pair came back! Take advantage of that and send anything crappy back (okay that would be a lot of stuff!)
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As per Dru's advice, schoeller kicks ass for general mountaineering and skiing, but for rock, especially gritty Squmaish, it rips worse than any canvas. Besides, you should be climbing in shorts to give you more motivation not to fall on run out slabs. Schoeller is expensive, skin heals.
![[big Grin]](images/icons/grin.gif)
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quote:Originally Posted by Dru:My alpine problem bolts are on the Grimface to Matriarch traverse in Cathedral Park BC. There is a good topo in Beckey guide. What it doesnt show are about 10 bolts out of 14 on the route which are totally unnecessary. some are on 3rd/4th class slabs. Some are right next to good anchor cracks. There are 4 bolts on route which do make sense (two for aid and two at a rap station with no natural anchor) but the rest were placed by an unnamed Penticton guide so that he could guide the traverse without placing gear, as near as i can tell. if i ever go back there i will go with a wrench and remove the offending hangars and make sure the bolts are nailed in and unusable (7 hr hike is a long way to carry a crowbar).
All you have to do is start talking really loud at Skaha about how you REALLY liked those bolts that someone put on the traverse, how they totally made that third class sketch fest go smooth. Sooner or later, somebody says, "glad you liked it." THAT'S when you use the crowbar!
[ 04-25-2002, 08:44 AM: Message edited by: jordop ]
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You know, i feel sorry for TNF sponsored athletes; sure they're getting support so they can climb without having to hold down a conventional job, but they HAVE to wear all that crap! Do you think they actually LIKE wearing obnoxiously loud, poorly made clothing that lumps them together with Joe six pack who wants to look hardcore? Next time you see a TNF athelete at a slide show, you should go up to them, put an arm around them, and say, "Dude, I'm so sorry. I know what you're going through, it's rough. I dunno why they had to put eight pockets with storm flaps, plus pit zips on this year's HyperChogulatsehyVent parka." Have sympathy on the less fortunate.
![[laf]](graemlins/yellowlaugh.gif)
[ 04-25-2002, 08:30 AM: Message edited by: jordop ]
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Passable iambic pentametre. With some forced stresses and unstressing of "Hex", it could be right out of Lear
![[Roll Eyes]](images/icons/rolleyes.gif)
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That's some good stuff you got in yer pipe there Dru! Tried thinking about that, but it made my brain hurt.
You'd think it would be the reverse cause Ct is closer to Gari.[ 04-23-2002, 10:58 AM: Message edited by: jordop ]
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Driving by the Chief yesterday at 3pm, there were three parties on the Grand . . . in April . . . in the rain. Jeeezus! Come July you're going to need a permit.
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Seen at yesterday's gear swap: brand new pair of trango pluses: $70, alpha ice boots $70, tonnes of co-op warranty goretex jackets for $50. Oh, and a hell of a lot of crap! Only in Vancouver (and Seattle) would people form a line a block long for the priviledge of tearing through other people's junk. I'm just mad cause nobody bought my stupid useless superfangs!
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Here is the knowledge that you seek.
http://www.bivouac.com/UsrPg.asp?rq=Pg&UsrId=105
[ 04-11-2002: Message edited by: jordop ]
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All the three north couloirs have sizable cornices overhanging them; have seen one collapse more than once while on the Wedge Glacier. Yes, before August is a good bet. Check out Dru's Snowy Owl; probably a bit more technical/longer? Dru? Calling Dru? Probably actually doing something! I hate posting on weekends; it's so obvious that once again I have crapped out of my climbing plans to do work.
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I got a TNF roadrunner 2 through a deal, but would not buy it retail. The seams are not sealed and are a bitch to do by hand. The upper pole/canopy deal is awkward. Tent is spacious and relatively light, but the MEC Tarns are a much better deal. (make friends with someone at a TNF dealer -- the deals ALMOST make TNF gear worthwhile).
Newbie in Vancouver looking for climbing partners/mentors
in British Columbia/Canada
Posted · Edited by jordop
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