svilar

In case you're unaware, Black Diamond has updated their ice tools. http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/shop/climb/marko-s-alpine-kit/cobra-ice-tool/ I was up in the basin the day before - see any size 12 tracks?

My wife and I had fun watching you guys from the lakes. I was envious until you disappeared over the N side and into the shade. Brrr.

Next time we'll have to bring you the see-through liner.

I'm not a wealth of San Juan climbing knowledge, but I'll be on the island from late July to early October. I'd love to meet up with some other climbers/bikers/kayakers on the island. My number is x4674

Durango (Fort Lewis) is unquestionably the best. Ouray, Silverton, and even Durango itself have ice. The best part is the desert (Indian Creek and others) are only a couple of hours. My sister spent two years going to school there and never paid out of state tuition. She started at Central WA and did some sort of transfer that never required high tuition. Check it out.

Two by Mac Bates: "Three Fingers" - good if you've been to the lookout and are curious about the history of the fire lookouts "Cascade Voices" - perfect for reading while on the can, filled with short interviews of legendary Cascades climbers

Unless you're talking about alpine climbing, everyone who climbs in western Washington ends up driving to the other side of the Cascades where there's good weather and... rocks. B'ham is a long drive from Leavenworth, Vantage, WA Pass on $4/gall gas. Depending on your job look at Mazama, Leavenworth, Wenatchee, Ellensburg if climbing is that important.

Thanks for sharing. We were watching you guys as we headed down Wiley Ridge on Saturday. We thought you might get screwed on that schrund, but were happy to see that you found a way around.

Trip: Pickets - Luna Col - Wiley Ridge Date: 9/12/2007 Trip Report: I wouldn't normally bother to post my lame trip reports, but people seem to be interested in the Pickets. There also seems to be some confusion regarding the Luna Cirque, so hopefully this helps someone in the future. We had about 4.5 days between Smitherman dropping his wife at the airport on Wednesday and picking her up Sunday. He thought 4.5 days was too short for a Ptarmigan Traverse, but thought it was more than enough for the Pickets(??). His desire was for a couple of nights at Luna Col with an ascent of Fury - mine was for a traverse of the Luna Cirque. Negotiations pursued upon arrviving Luna Col and the traverse was on. Day 1: Took the rip-off boat ride on Ross Lk to the head of Big Beaver Valley, hiked the 11 miles, and followed Access Creek to the base of Luna Pk. A lovely cairn alerted us as to where to leave the Big Beav trail and a log was placed over the creek for our crossing convenience. We used the instructions in Nelson's guide which worked perfectly - only a short section of slide alder. Our camp underneath Luna at the head of Access Creek. Day 2: We hiked up the hill behind camp and were greeted by the best views of the Southern Pickets I've ever seen. A short rising traverse brought us to Luna Col where we stubbornly spent the afternoon all in the name of camping at the col. S Pickets after crossing the hill above Access Creek. Smitherman cooks dinner on the summit of Luna Peak. After a hearty Mountain Outhouse we stayed on the summit for sunset. The most impressive summit view I've personally seen in the Cascades. Day 3: I climbed partway back up Luna to take some sunrise photos. From the col we dropped down to incredible Luna Lake via slabs using vegetable aid (branches). We're not sure if our route was the best, but am sure this would have been easier earlier in the season with some snow. Like I said, Luna Lake was unbelievable and we both regretted leaving. From Luna Lk down to the bottom of the cirque we expected easy going scree, but ran into the nastiest terrain on our trip. At one point we picked a slide alder patch as our best descent route. This should tell you something about our predicament. After being "cliffed" out in the alder we finally descended the large gully below the Fury Glacier. The gully was a steep pile of sh_t, made even less pleasant by the threat of a glacier hanging overhead. With a bit more snow we could have gone all the way up against the cliffs on the lower part of Fury for a safer and saner descent. After crossing the bottom of the cirque on the glacier we crossed over two lateral moraines, the first of which provided us some more fun on massive teetering boulders. We finally started up underneath Challenger crossing a waterfall in an obvious spot (coming from the cirque) and stayed just above treeline - side-hilling our way to a small ridge that we followed vertically to the Challenger Glacier and our camp. Southern and Northern Pickets at dawn near the summit of Luna Peak. Smitherman pauses to take in Fury and Luna Lake. Icebergs in Luna Lake. Our route to the lake and into the cirque from Luna Col. Send me an email if you need a high res version. Route beneath Challenger and up to the Challenger Glacier camp. Day 4 Because of time we opted to not climb Challenger (ouch). From our camp on a rock island we headed around point 7374 opting for the glacier (again using Nelson's guide). To our surprise we ran into some 45 degree snow which forced us into a belay. At this time of year going directly over point 7374 would have been much easier. Next up was Wiley, then Eiley Lake where we got a little too comfortable. From this point we followed Nelson's guide to a tee... except for the steep heather. We crossed the steep heather hillside too high (6450') instead of the suggested 6300'. The heather became nearly vertical and both of us tried not to think about an un-glorious death tumbling down a heather covered hillside. The descent off of Wiley Ridge back to the Big Beaver trail was steep, but the bushwhacking was nearly non-existent. Except for our steep heather mistake this was an easy way to Challenger by Picket standards. We camped at Luna Camp. We did not see a cloud for the first four days except for this little fog roll beneath Whatcom Peak. Smitherman lords over the valley. We reluctantly turned our backs on Challenger and headed home. Day 4.5 Luna Camp to the Big Beaver dock. Our boat was on time and Smitherman was back at the airport to pick up his wife and I arrived back on my island in time to catch Sunday Night Football. This trip has be one of the most scenic in the entire range. The views of the Pickets were changing, yet absolutely dramatic the entire way. Next time I'll do it earlier in the season as a bit of snow would make the going easier. I'll also set aside at least 6-7 days for more climbing and any weather issues. Gear Notes: 30 meter glacier rope, 2 pickets, ice axe, crampons Gear MVP = trekking pole, especially on the steep heather sections Approach Notes: See above.

Funny TR. I'm going to pack my alpine snafflehound trap and cook that little fu#@!@# for dinner next week.

He's just buff. His forearms look like that when he brushes his teeth.

I've decided to go with a Redheaded theme in honor of my climbing partner and long-time friend Matt Alford. While prone to temper tantrums, accidents, and large untimely bowel movements you couldn't ask for a better partner for the mountains. ALPINE gazing toward the Southern Pickets on a climb of Mt Triumph CRAGGING on some climb at Index ICE day after thanksgiving on the N Ridge of Mt Baker SKI/SNOWBOARD Redhead can't ski, so here is another Matt (Elley) on Mt Baker's Easton Glacier SCENIC camp beneath McClellan Ridge in the Enchantments HUMOR traveling lighter on the summit of McMillan Spire

I need you guys to help me determine the most liveable town on the east side of the Cascades. Originally from Seattle area, but escaped to Colorado for good weather and less traffic. However, I'm missing friends, proximity to saltwater, and the Pickets. I need to come back. I can't handle constant rain and traffic anymore so looking for a town just on the other side of the crest. My girlfriend is somewhat of a hippie, so the place cannot be too stiflingly conservative. A good outdoor community (even if small) is considered a must. Help me come back to the Cascades!

Was planning to leave for a trip to the high Sierras next week, but am concerned about "record levels" of snow. Looking to do some longer alpine rock climbs, so was wondering if anyone had info on current conditions. Any other suggestions for this time of year - preferably alpine? Would stay in the Cascades if weather not so crappy.

Sorry to interrupt, but my experience with Giardia suggests it's not that big a deal. I had it last summer traveling in Africa and took four pills (can't remember the name, but sold by Pfizer) all in one dose. Knocked it out over night and hasn't returned. My buddy who was in the Peace Corps has it and refuses to get treated by the doctor - says it makes him regular.