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Dr.E

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Posts posted by Dr.E

  1. Okay, I went waaaay out of my way on the hog's back on hood once to stay away from Mazama group and one of them wandered over (I presume to see a "real climbing group") and stepped on my rope in crampons. mad.gif" border="0 I have had a bad taste in my mouth for 15 years over that one. I'm not bitter though. I guess when a person's gear is huge, it is hard to keep track of it around other people's and thus it sometimes becomes a problem. Okay, I'm over it.

    Mountaineers: The blind leading the bumblies. Yes, I was a beginner once: I didn't pretend to be otherwise and thereby call myself an "instructor." On the upside, I've enjoyed watching mounty synchronized headlamp shows from Boston Basin and elsewhere long after I've been in camp--so they do provide entertainment as long as they aren't on the route in front of you. So, Here's to you mounties [big Drink]

    Join the WAC if you want a good climbing club. Their motto is: Never let judgement sway desire.It has worked for me for a long time. wink.gif" border="0

  2. Don't own any bad gear. If it sucks, take it back to REI and get a refund. Heh.

    I love thermarests. Any version of the suck tube does just that. Always a hassle on the trail except of course when it leaks all over your gear in the truck or pack before you hit the trail.

    Come to think of it, I have a batch of booty beaners that are worthless but I can't make myself throw away. I wouldnt trust them to rap off, who knows their history? But a guy can only use so many keychains.

  3. I did haute route two years ago and one guy had those and they were fine. didn't bend or break or anything. I hear the fatigue is more likely but will take a long time to manifest. Should be alright for a few trips depending on the mileage logged. Same with the lightweight axes we used on tours. I didn't opt for lightweight crampons as we weren't schlepping loads anyway. Wussy hut to hut stuff.

  4. dudes, I'm hurt. Dru is the only one answering my question. I thought at least someone would pick from the "I hate list..." from last month.

    Cavey didn't even weigh in. Probably too stimulated about ice to give it much thought.

    I'm gonna take my post and go elsewhere.

  5. Is some of the negative sentiment toward fixed gear motivated by a "dumbing down" or "de-adventurizing of the wilderness?" If so, what about packing walkie-talkies, cell phones or gps units? It seems to me that these items take a lot of the good old fashioned risk out of climbing much like closely spaced bolts.

    Don't tell me about "your actions bolting infringe on my rights to climb clean." If I'm looking for adventure and the guy climbing the route ahead of me, or anywhere near me for that matter, is infringing on my adventure when his cell phone rings and reminds me of easy access to help in case I need it. I'm not saying I always feel that I want unimpeded adventure but it is a sticky issue.

    Unfortuately, this logic taken to its extreme is ludicrous. A line in the sand is easy to draw and we don't all agree on where to draw it. Ahh, freedom. Should we do as the former USSR "champions of alpinism" and climb only the way a central planning committee dictates?

  6. Scott,

    Where did you score the cool poster jpg? Are there more at some site? I'm looking for Chamonix posters. Neat screensavers. I spent a couple weeks there this year and saw the posters and postcards everywhere but scanning is only option I've figured so far. (btw, it rained alot when we were there). I always take my crampons off running for the telepherique. Wearing them makes you look like Jacques Bonjet! Watch your axe too!

  7. Wow,

    Where's the love?

    I sure hope the snow consolidates quickly. Then we could spend our time more enjoyably! All this vitriolic name-calling is harming my sensibilities. This thread sure isn't going to convince anyone that one style is better than another. You guys should consider the fact that we may be friends if we were to meet face-to-face in the backcountry. The posts are so abusive, they may preclude that option if a meeting ever occurs. Chill bro's.

  8. both are good but i switched from bibs to pants. mainly a heat regulation issue. and you can wear the pants out on the town in chamonix waiting for the weather to break. Also, when things get a bit tight with aging, bibs don't seem to be as forgiving. Shirts don't come untucked for cold spots with bibs but they do with pants. The heat issue is the biggest deal and I am usually hot in the mtns except at belays.

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