Jump to content

Dr.E

Members
  • Posts

    80
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Posts posted by Dr.E

  1.  

    BD Alpine Pants with capilene lightweights underneath for backcountry ski trips day or weeklong. You can roll up if too hot, they eliminate need for gators to a large extent, plenty of pockets. All at a not so reasonable price. But they last a long time. Just don't climb some crappy chimney in them. [There's no reason to climb a crappy chimney in anything come to think of it. ] Well, anyway, mine have made it several weeks of wear while wind shells seem to get holes in them fairly quickly and after a decade or so the coating comes off the inside all over everything. frown.gif

     

    It's all a temperature regulation thing anyway and these just won't work well for some and will be the answer for others. It is just too bad they are so expensive for people to try and find out.

  2. Climbing firing him was good. But... I wonder how he ever made it to 'Editor' and how come they only fired him now? You don't do crap like that on a lark without people at the mag knowing your predisposition right? I mean, it is kind of like hiring the coach at Notre Dame who lied on his resume. Did no one at the magazine bother to check on him or did they turn a blind eye on his aberrant behavior? Or, was this honestly his first offense and they canned him right away before the problem got bigger? I don't know...food for thought.

  3. what is the essential difference between driving an SUV to work and driving a geo metro to work? We draw a line in the sand and say that the amount of fossil fuels consumed by the metro is okay and the SUV isn't. I just don't get it unless a person walks or rides a bike (which I know some do and I very much respect those persons). Do we ever fly to Europe for a climbing trip? Lots 'o fuel consumed there too! Public transportation over there is awesome but they have also 'civilized' (e.g., huts, telepheriques) the mtns which is a choice some wouldn't care for. Oh well, random thoughts.

  4. Climbed N. side of Hood and camped on top with buddies. First light brought a horde of bumblies clawing their way to the summit. Most interesting was the man-beast in a 1 piece with a matching helmet two-tooling the summit snowfield in short sections pausing frequently to gain composure and or breath. We almost fell off laughing so hard. yelrotflmao.gif

     

    Same day descending Cooper Spur ran into foam-hatted jeans and flannel guy climbing in work boots with a tent stake in each hand...

     

    Another time soloing S. Side of Hood to ski in early 80's...Rope of 16 people and a dog coming out of Pearly Gates. They would move one at a time on separate rope (including the dog who belonged to the obvious leader expert). I overheard him 'instructing' his charges as I passed above them on my way up as to the folly of 'that guy soloing.' Boy did he make me feel the fool... rolleyes.gif I had lunch on top and they were still descending to the Hog's Back as I gave them a wide berth on the way down.

  5. This getting off story sounds amazingly like my experience in February 1983 when me and a bro did the same route. He took a fall, whacked me in the head on the way by (pre-helmet thinking era) but we kept going up and did the 'traverse' off in the dark. I guess the more things change, the more they stay the same. Glad you have a good memory of your trip like we do. bigdrink.gif

  6. You know, I'm not model but I do pay a lot of taxes. btw, on this page alone I see three quotes you dudes and or dudettes are using for tag lines that are misquoted or misattributed. You should get those right don't ya think? Check your sources not just your alcohol and altitude addled memories... smileysex5.gifsmileysex5.gif

  7. You're right on good climbs out of the crack. I'm just talking about the bolt pullers err, clippers that can climb hard stuff but don't know how to place gear. I am looking for sunshine in the winter at smith but still don't see many folks climbing in or out of karate for the most part. seems like there is always a line on heinous cling and ring of fire though.

  8. 1. Arete de Cosmiques/NE Butt of Slesse/NE Butt of Dragontail2. Joe Catellani/Gaston Rebufatt/Fred Beckey3. Chain Reaction/Gervasutti Pillar/Mittleggi Ridge of Eiger

    All classics in their own right.

  9. Okay, maybe Long has been dragging it out a bit (too long?). But I think Sherman is funny everytime. Some old material but classic. I don't get tired of climbing Outerspace even though it is a repeat and well below hardest grade--embrace the classics dude. And we owe verm some measure of respect for coming up with the V system.

  10. Wow, I would have kept quiet until Terry started dissing Dr. Doom. Twight's stuff is some of the best reading in climbing. Although I don't want to live my life the way he does, I am very entertained by his stories. I think you need to take it with a grain of salt. Sure the angst is there, but he isn't that bad a guy and he has done a ton of cool stuff that doesn't even get in print. Live in Chamonix, climbed with lots of cool people over there I've met and they are impressed. And euros don't impress that easily. For my money, Sherman, Child, Roberts, and Long are the only climbing authors consistently in the 'good read' category with Mark. That's not to say others aren't good but these guys always put out something you want to finish reading.

    And be honest, do you NOT read Twight? Or do you read the whole story and then diss on his attitude? If the latter, you've helped him (and his publishers) achieve his purpose.

  11. A further thought: perhaps the mazama death rate stems from them stepping on people's ropes with crampons. Someone less understanding than the gentle, friendly guy than I am might have killed the guy who punctured my rope.

    Is Heinous a Mazama? Why the scathing reply? If I were a member of one club, I would be careful making fun of the other. Except the WAC of course. grin.gif" border="0

×
×
  • Create New...