Marty

Hi, my name is Marty and I climb with a 12 inch love gun and two reloads strapped to my "way" high upper thigh. I'd love to go bouldering with you at your secret area. PM me any time.

When someone gets on the forum and starts saying that they are going to chop this and that they can expect grief. And please lets put this into perspective. It's another 10b mixed (now bolted) route at Vantage. While Im not going to wait out at the cliff for Martin and his crowbar, I will take 2minutes to tell him what I think. If I was Yoder I wouldn't even give Martin a response. If It wasn't for Yoder, Martin and friends wouldn't even be climbing out there period. Martin and friends have never taken the initiative to scout out cliffs and put the labor, time, and money into development like Yoder. Guy's like Martin are armchair quarterbacks picking at the guys that created the game.

Hanging off a rope, cleaning bird crap and loose, dirty, basalt out of cracks is not fun. It's really not that fun to clean the loose rock off the faces or put bolts in either. Yoder has probably been doing it longer than Martin has been climbing. Has Yoder messed upon this route maybe? Should Martin Cash give the guy some leeway and keep his mouth shut? For sure. Martin, it is my understanding that your climbing resume would benefit if you spent more time training to climb, and climbing rather than worrying about some mixed climb at Vantage.

I'm going to pipe in with LuCKY here. My stance is the same as it was a couple years ago during a bolt chopping debate, and it is this: WHO THE FUCK IS MARTIN CASH? and Who endowed him with such divine ethical standards? Bottom line: Yoder, creator of routes at the cliffs that you all climb on. Martin Cash, bottom feeder, critic. Contribution to climbing in WA state; zero.

Umm, Martin.... My big, black, friend who just got out of prison for sodomizing and killing the last guy that chopped his route put those in. Be warned cause Tiny loves terrorizing little white men such as yourself.

Spotly, there are some 10's and the 11's are well bolted, endurance (no hard moves just big holds and pumpy) routes that even if you don't send, they are fun to climb on. It aint like minne, you can actually fall without hitting the ground. Drater I am a part time kiter these days. Kiting does jack for your fitness. Especially the after kite beer drinking. Liberty Park: Well its all chipped so if you dont like it don't come: Here's my miniguide: 1. Home of the Homeless V5 2. Pipe Hittin' Niggaz V8 3. Walk the Earth V9 4. Cant remember v9 5. The Naturalist v7 6. Carrie v6 Best bouldering in spokane.

Trip: China Bend - Several Date: 10/13/2007 Trip Report: Team Spokane, and Team Gay met at 8AM at team Gay headquarters (My house. And no, we're not really gay, that's just what Team Green (They enjoy the wacky tabaccky) calls us so don't go trying to sign us up for gay chatlines and stuff. Keep your rainbow flags and pink triangles to yourself. If I catch you trying to pinch my butt at Smith Rocks next time I see you there will be a war, Okay?). Team Pullman was already at the cliff. They spent the night after bouldering at Liberty Park on Friday. They were very motivated. After our alpine start, and grocery store stops we got to the crag at about 11AM. Why so late? Well picking the proper selection of energy drinks and crag goodies takes time. Also the Kettle River bridge is out and now it takes a little longer drive to the cliff. A typical start of the day, Team Spokane member John Keene warming up on Pork Sausage, 11b. Everybody loves Pork in the morning Team Gay member Marty Bland hasn't been climbing lately but did step up and warm up on A River Runs Through it, 11c. If you study the photo, you will notice an absolute lack of any muscle definition what so ever. Very sad conditioning. Even more disturbing perhaps, is the attentiveness of his fellow team member and belayer in this photo. At any rate the day progressed and got a bit cloudy, which was good for sending. Team Gay member Bryan starting up his current project, Evil Betty, 13a He was not a success on this trip and will return to face this enduro, pumpfest in the future, where he will likely crush this monstrosity of a route. Mike Boccino, of Team Pullman was succesful. Here he is sending Game Warden, 12d Perhaps the highlight of the day was Team Spokane's Johnny Goicoccea,(sp but I can't ever even hope to spell that guys name anyway) and his near ascent of the Overoptimistic Local 14a. He'd been working it and this was the day to send, especially when the clouds rolled in and cooled the temps. He started the route, made it through the crux, but on the easy terrain at the chains, he broke a hold and was off. Couple photo's: The crux set up: And the crux sloper stick. You know its a bad hold when you can see the top of it and you're standing on the ground. At any rate, there was some sun, great sports action, and sore shoulders at the end of the day. It doesn't get any better.

Um, sir. You state that you need to climb harder to learn to fall yet you haven't fallen for 12 yrs. until last year? Maybe you should read your post and take your own advice?

By the way spotly, you're website is pretty cool. You got some great photos.

I got an Idea. You could get some of that blue spray paint that "F*&K" is written in, spray a couple lines on the "F" to make it a "B", enclose the "u" and the "c" for two O's, then put a couple more lines on the "k" for another "B". Everybody loves Boobs, right? Seriously Spotly, if you want to scrub the F*&k out of that rock I think you should. There's no holds there anyhow, and I just like to get Steve wound up anyway.

I know Elmo. We have a brilliant choss cliff (pretty clean now) in Spokane (Deep Creek). Looks like there has to be some stuff around hood river. I won't be doing any work there either but thought I would ask if someone else has been.

Curious, but some of you think Just Do it, Action Directe, Realization, and routes like these are still waiting for a legitimate redpoint? At which time they will be renamed? I'll bet you think all the cool kids are listening to Depeche Mode, Flock of Seagulls, and Duran Duran too?

I have a question for you portland guys. It looks like there's some steep basalt/choss cliffs around Hood River. Very overhung/cave type stuff. Is there any route development that anyone would care to share about on these cliffs? Not gear placing crap either, strictly sport cliff type things.

Kevin lives in his van and is at the New River Gorge judging by his 8a.nu scorecard. He lives in Cranbrooke otherwise. I can get a hold of him if you really need me to, but he's on a 10 year roadtrip at the moment. Got to work tomorrow but have fun without me.

Cock a doodle doo. 99% of the garbage at Minne is not climber generated. I'm not burning a Saturday to "clean" John Shield Park. What's next in this quest to make climbers into some sort of eco-saints? Will I have to pick up garbage in the ditch on roadways leading to popular cliffs in order to be worthy? I have picked up others garbage as I passed by it. Why not do this instead of a formal clean up? What is the point of this big, organized clean up? How much garbage is really out there that we must organize an army to clean it up? Some people just like to have meetings to vote on organizing organizations so they can form committees to organize meetings, and then vote on chairmen that elect board members that organize different functions that vote on committees who elect members to serve on organizations that elect committees. These are people who should shut up and climb. Still climbing. Went to china bend yesterday (no garbage there cause we pick it up and it isn't in the middle of the city like the pristine wilderness environ of Minne and Dishman).