plexus
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Posts posted by plexus
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No Sharkey?!! It's all because they had to find time to make Arwen a bigger part!!!
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Probably was a little over three years ago. A friend I had helped teach how to climb turned into one of the best climbers I'd known. She was also easy to spot and belay while she was working a route because she was 5-feet-nothing and 90-sumthing pounds.
One day after she had turned good, went out cragging with her, taught her trad, top-roped my first 11 and then led a couple of mixed 10c's that day.
Still trying to get back to that level. Been climbing mountains and not really pushing the technical grade that much. But starting back down that road now that I'm in Colorado and there ain't no glaciers
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Will prbly head down that way in Jan. Moved to Denver and the wife wants to check out the Ouray ice climbing fest.
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I heard rumours of this back in May talking with the IO of the park. NCNP is fairly progressive compared to some other NPs, look at the work they are doing with alpine lake fishing. They could just take the findings, say stocking high lakes has a negative impact and close it. Instead they have had five public scoping meetings and are taking another year to come up with a compromise, something they didn't have to do.
Superintendent Paleck is a pretty cool guy, that's my impression with the dealings I've had with him in the past.
Plus I don't think they are going to have to worry about droves of people flocking there. There just ain't no room!!
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Well I just ordered that Alta watch you were giving props to Alex. Got tired of trying to make out anything behind the huge cloud of fog stuck in my old dial altimeter.
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Where's Fishtail at? Karakorum? Height? Do they provide porters or do you have to rent your own
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Cpt.Caveman said:
Snowking to Mutchler etc....
Wow, I see my campsite from this summer. Sniff! I loved that trip, what a beautiful area. How often do you look down on a helicopter picking up water from Found Lake?
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The market fluxuates all the time. When I was there two years ago, it was 9.3 pescos to the $1US. Now it's been hovering between 11-10.5 pescos to a $1US.
Also by Saltillo, there are some great cliffs to be scaled. Trad climbing there. Chico is a lot of bolts.
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Talked with my old co-worker last night and he informed me of Garrett's unfortunate fate. I've interviewed him in the past and he was a good kid. What a bizzare way to go.
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I feel more comfortable on gear but climb better on bolted routes. It might be that I'm not carrying as much weight on bolted leads. (I know I need to get my weak ass to the gym). Also I'm discovering a lot of moderate bolted lines have first clips pretty high off the deck (20-30 feet above broken boulders). Once you get the experience and know when your trad pieces are bomber, that fear of falling on them disappears somewhat.
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Good show!!
I was given explicit directions of which gully to take and had it pounded into my head, use the right one (pun indeed). Tis a pretty climb and keeps you on edge most of the time.
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Fairweather, do the col, it is much, much faster. Do the Silver Star Creek, (some brush) if doing it as a two-day event. But just do it in one day. You'll be tired at the end but that makes the beer taste better when you get back to the car
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Coopah said:
Good climb which can be bagged in a long day if you leave the road early! Cut your pack weight in half and cruise....
Tis the only way to do it, unless you want to get some turns in on your trip, then do it as a two-day and carry in the plankers
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Good job kid!! No don't go gettin drunk and fall down the stairs!!
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MisterE said:
I don't "Freedom Free"
climb, and call it a "free ascent".Why hide your take? Smacks of cowardice to me....
"Freedom Free"
Did that used to be known as "French Free"?! 
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It's along slog....do the boulder instead, it's a nicer route
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Dru said:catbirdseat said:
I agree that you don't want to be falling when you are way up on some multipitch far far from the trailhead. Take your falls when you are at the crags one pitch up and 1 minute from the road.
you mean like when you are leading Air Guitar at Vantage huh
Can't believe you went there Drude...Damn that's taking a man's woman....and his beer 
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You guys are all forgetting Graybeard and Colonial. I'll go with Goode and Triumph as well, and the scariest one of all Willis Wall
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Up to Ruth is a piece of cake, you should be able to drive all the way up to the trailhead by that point. IMHO, I think that will be a good time to attempt that with some snow coverage, it should make it easier with the rock and crevasses. I started the traverse a couple of years ago and turned back due to not giving myself enough time. It's fairly straight forward from your vantage on Ruth. I read that you skirt around the summit on Ruth, but I went straight from the summit down to the ridge.
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As of last Monday, there's no snow. And considering the lack of snow on Burgundy Spire, it's safe to assume on the Beckey route, there still is no snow.
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Did Silver Star Mtn on Tuesday with a couple of friends. Camped on road to Cutthroat Pass Trailhead, left Hwy 20 at 5:15 a.m., decend down to Willow Creek, had to jump to an island to cross on the log over the creek, which is raging pretty good.
The trail is visible and in earshot of Burgundy Creek. Hit punchy snow at 5800 ft, full coverage by 6200 ft. Ate 1st lunch at the campsite described by Beckey and Nelson at 6,700 ft.
The way up to Burgundy Col seemed to take forever. Crappy snow, refrozen crust with slop underneath, much wallowing was endured. Also the forshortening of the way makes you think you're always close to the col but never are.
The views from the col are great. Somebody left some booty up there, which my friends were happy to inhale
Short glissade down and traverse around the spires, all soft snow on the east side. One friend bailed and decided to check out some heliskier stakes on a knoll, so just two of us headed up the snowslope, at around 8300 ft, cached some excess gear which we didn't want to carry up any longer, including our crampons. So of course Murphy's law occured.
On way up the two of us leaped out of the way of a snow patch that slid off of the West peak, broke into several pieces and came barrelling down at us. Reached Silver Star col and up to the peak, where we discovered we wish we had our crampons. Stuck to some class 3 when was possible. Got summit, drank mescal, great glissade down, traverse, bloody hell we have to climb up to the col
Great glissade down from Burgundy col, zombie walk back to truck. Enjoyed some apricot ale. I'm still dead today.
roundtrip was just under 10 hrs. The backside of Silver Star is gorgeous and will be back there later on to get up Burgundy Spire. The rock is pretty clean.
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Go with the Ascents. The lifter really is a god send on prolonged steep slopes (think over 1K of 45+ degrees). I got my pair at Second Ascent, as a demo pair they were $90, two small scratches on them when I bought them.
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Spring=snow sluffs..learned about that last spring when a slide knocked me on my face before I rolled out of it.
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Snow was harder than hell up in that area today. Soloed up Blue Lake Peak for some excercise. I brought snowshoes and wished I had brought crampons. I wound up cutting steps on stuff that was only 40 degrees.
Physical/Mental Strength
in Rock Climbing Forum
Posted
Attitude and emotional states have are very intrical to physical performance. Just keep that bad mojo away and always tell yourself that you can get up that climb before you start it.
My favorite moment climbing was a few years back leading a run-out 10c. It was the most fluid I had ever been climbing because I visualized the climb as a boulder problem between each bolt, and I KNEW I could boulder 10c.
Speaking of which, I'm heading down to the climbing gym to get an arm pump. (no pun intended
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