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Mike_Gauthier

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Everything posted by Mike_Gauthier

  1. Wow, I had no idea PBS was gossiping about my climbing trips... Hope the show was good!
  2. There was a reason why I put this on the blog, it was b/c I knew it would be something of a controversial issue to some people... I wanted to be forthcoming about something that I recognized would draw the ire of critically minded climbers. So I think that I know exactly what you're concerned about. The issues around access to Rainier are made at a much higher level these days. That said, I do know that once the NPS decided to allow shuttled access to one concession (the National Park Inn) it wanted to be fair about access to other concessions (the guide services). In addition, the local businesses are struggling to make ends meet this winter. Any amount of tourism, even limited guided tourism, is definitely welcomed. I won't speculate, but allowing, even a few visitors into the park means a great deal to the local economy. It also represents a geniune intent from the park to reopen itself. Also, there is a great amount of interest and concern regarding the new guide services. In essence, the NPS would like to make sure that things go smoothly for the public, the park, and the NPS. Since the services have radios with NPS freqs, shuttles, and are partners (due to the contractual issues), it's not a gigantic leap to allow them limited access. Much like the contractors at Paradise, or the Inn in Longmire. I see how this stings, but figured it would be better to discuss it openly now, rather than later.
  3. They pushed back the road opening to Longmire... "Probably in early May." No specific word on Paradise. As far as I can tell, there is still quite a bit of road repair... More on the blog ...
  4. Last season on Rainier was one of the safest on record with no fatalities only two very very minor injuries. Hopefully this upcoming season will follow with the same results. probably helped that the park was completly shut down for 1/4 of the year? Only closed for 2 months in 2006, and the slowest 2 months for climbing at that... So it was a good year. I credited the climbers, weather, rangers, guides (and a bit of luck) with the absence of incidents. Statically speaking, it would be incredible to have 2 years like that in a row. Of course 2007 is getting a bit of help b/c upper mountain access is all but impossible for 4 (possibly more) months...
  5. Hey Aussie, This is what I said on the blog... To cut to the chase (and for practical purposes) it's tough to get to get to Paradise/Nisqually Glacier/Camp Muir. There are "some" possiblities, but the team should be familiar w/ the mountain, super fit, and creative w/ approach. Basically, the roads are off limits most of the time. From what I hear, it will be April (at least) before you can drive a pesonal vehicle to Paradise. Mike
  6. What a pleasant surprise this film turned out to be! I haven't seen "Touching the Void," but from the climbing films I've seen, this one was the best so far. Seeing it at the Paramount made it a "you had to be there moment." AS it turns out, the silent film was accompanied by a pipe organ which really made the film. It was over 2 hours, and the cinematography and acting keep the film going... Esp if you like climbing and the alps. There were some really wild avalanche, rescue and accident scenes. And given the date of the film, I was impressed by how real it all looked. The film maker must have loved mountains, glaciers, and clouds. And they were all skiing and climbing around in nice wool climbing suits... Definitely worth the trip, glad I saw it. Don't know if it's as special on DVD, but maybe worth the try.
  7. I was sent a link to The White Hell of Pitz Palu, an old German climbing film. I hear that's it pretty good, so I hope to catch it tomorrow night. Anyway, I wanted to share this w/ cc.com. http://www.theparamount.com/artists/artist.asp?key=407 German Expressionist Silents with Dennis James on the Mighty Wurlitzer Organ Seattle actor Judith Shahn to translate German subtitles One of the most celebrated mountain films of all time, THE WHITE HELL OF PITZ PALU was also an international box-office success--indeed it was the first German film to play the giant Roxy Theatre in New York City. Riefenstahl stars as a newlywed who gets trapped on a mountain ledge with her husband on their ill-fated honeymoon. While Arnold Fanck staged the outdoor action with his characteristic pictorial flair, the Expressionist director G.W. Pabst was brought in to oversee dramatic scenes shot in the studio. Working for Pabst, Riefenstahl distinguished herself as an accomplished actress among Fanck's gang of mountaineers, and the critics were quick to single her out for praise: "For the heroine, Leni Riefenstahl, renewed and unexpectedly fresh, unexpectedly charming. A flowing free rhythm, breath-catching beauty, genuine alarm. Not blatant or manufactured, but sensed with authenticity."
  8. I briefed a key Senate staffer on the Park commitee about this topic after my study on charging climbers for rescue on Denali (2001). Though a Senator pursued the topic publically, his staff privately agreed that it was done more for media purposes. When it comes down to it, it's not worth the time to chase such dollar amounts given the complications of doing so. He described rescues costs for climbers as "decimal dust" when considering the federal budget. Jedi mind tricks...
  9. Hey ENS I could suggest a good book for Rainier... The Olympic Mountains are FAB!! But it's best to take plenty of time on Rainier and not rush things. You'll enjoy your trip more if you don't overplan the entire thing and try to do too many things.
  10. Well, I wasn't quite suggesting that... But... The screener kept asking about new regs... SO I asked her "What regs or new laws would she create/suggest?" She mentioned requirements around "experience." And then I said, but didn't these guys have experience? Ok, what about minimum "gear/equipment," but didn't these guys have that too? Ok, what about "weather?" So you want to pass a reg that says the weatherman must approve climbing trips? And who will do this?? She gave up when she realized the best way to deal w/ this issue to provide knowledgable people who can register and educate climbers pre-trip, so the climbers can make good choices. I could have soft peddled it, but I wasn't in the mood to BS... Oh well, I'm pretty sure there will be more opportunities in the future. The public loves this topic.
  11. if i were you i would try and contact another show and get this info out there. this is important for several reasons. damn media I appreciate the support/encouragement, but I don't have TV and have missed most of the Hood coverage. So, is the media STILL spinning this story? As for this event, I didn't want to continually watch this story, esp after the first day of clearing and nothing was found... Those details weren't very encouraging. Also, I shared email w/ these climbers before they climbed Rainier last spring. I didn't put that together till I started reading the Rainier related threads, which are very foreboding. After all the rescue work I've seen/done, I just didn't have it in me to read the banter on this site, and I'm sure there was some really good stuff. Personally, I understand all too well what the climbers, rescuers, and search managers are going (and went) through.
  12. BTW, I suspect that this latest round of "charge the climbers" will pass. It's just not sound public policy when you look at the issue in depth...
  13. O'Riely and company contacted me about that show. But the call screener quickly realized that they weren't going to get much sympathy for charging and more regs from me... Which is too bad, b/c it would have been nice to part of his "No Spin-Zone"...
  14. Hey Mark, Next time, skip going to Glacier Basin and just head up the Emmons from White River Campground. If there's plenty of snow, and there is, it's easier. IF anyone goes that way, feel free to drop me a note. Have fun!
  15. Hey Mark, We've been discussing the issue over here. As for rumors, I try to keep my blog updated too... http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=618727&page=0#Post618727
  16. Hey Sky Actually, I did hint at the opening to the Westside road on Dec 11th. I just wasn't officially released yet. I also heard that they are allowing visitors to the National Park Inn in Longmire to be shuttled up over the holiday stretch. So if you've got a reservation for the hotel, you can get to Longmire. These days, however, I'm in VT. They's why my pipeline of Rainier info is limited. More on the park when I return. Hope you folks are all well out there w/ all the wind storms. My thoughts are mostly w/ the 3 climbers on Hood, and Christine and Charlie.
  17. That visitor center has been something of a maintenance issue for a number of years. The roof, as noted, isn't appropiate for the environment. And there is truth to the fact that the NPS needs to keep the snow off of it for threat of damage. But we don't manually shovel it, there is a complicated heated water system that does... But when the power is down, so is the system. Seems that March is being thrown around as the date things may open to Paradise. I wonder how much the winter weather will monkey with that? As for Longmire, the required occupants never moved out; we're living through the inconsistancy of power and sewer. There was an offer to move, but that seemed far more inconvenient than using a honey bucket. The generators still power the place, hopefully, the power will be connected over the next few weeks. Other than the maintenance employees and a few rangers, there are no NPS employees regularly working in Longmire. As for a road, the back road was quickly fixed after the storm. It provides one lane access (via snow-covered dirt/4WD road). At it's current state, the road could not handle public usage (or continued usage by employees either).
  18. Great show Mark. And of course a big thanks FF for setting me up...
  19. If you want my take on the things, go to www.mountrainierclimbing.blogspot.com. Hey fenderfour, what do you mean by ALL CAPS?
  20. The telemetry is still down (needs consistent power and doesn't have it). But we are manually measuring the snow each day. Yeah, I wondered if Rainier really had more snow back in 1999. There were numerous days when it snow so much, we weren't able to even get the weather. On a few ocassions, this went on for days... Which greatly reduces the snowfall measurement, as much of the fresh snow gets compacted, and in a few cases, it even rained. Oh well, it's still looks great up here regardless of the record... BTW, records (any type) can be interesting, but as we know on cc.com, they can also lead to problems/disputes... Next thing you know, we'll have to have third party snow measurers...
  21. Good question, but there are no refunds. You could purchase a 2007 pass now, but with the park is closed, it would do you little good.
  22. The Supt and Congressman were discussing the topic in the Seattle Times . As always, I share my own gossip, innuendo and photo evidence over on the blog . And when I get some new climbing stories, I'll share those too.
  23. Paddling the Nisqually would be quite a ride these days, but the park is closed. I've posted a few pics on the blog. Don't expect access to Paradise anytime soon. Word is that the road between Longmire and Nisqually is completely washed out, and others are underwater... More on the blog later
  24. I'd post some video, but our government computers are barred from youtube... The Paradise weather recorded over 11 inches of rain in the past 24 hours... Not bad, I wish it was 15 degrees cooler.
  25. Yes, but the wind gusts for the past 3 hours have reached 118, 112 and 112 respectively... It's nuking up there. We've had 8 inches of rain at Paradise in under 24 hours...
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