ScottP
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Posts posted by ScottP
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I have a used pair of Black Diamond 205 cm Toute Neige backcountry skiis, no bindings.
I hate to toss them, and would prefer to give them away to someone who would like a good pair of skiis for the price of some bindings.
Let me know:
preshos@home.att.net
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I spent an afternoon at Devil's Lake in Wisconsin once. Just walking along the top of the walls. I found two stoppers, a Lowe tricam, four biners and a bunch of webbing. There was also a rope, but it seemed to be snagged on something down below. The rope looked pretty beat, so I just cut it loose and took the gear. Funny how people can get loud an obnoxious at a popular crag like that.
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quote:Originally posted by lambone:P.S.Todd Skiner already worked on Town Crier and said it was a choss heap.
A common response when someone can't free a route...
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I had a third degree (completely in two) ligament tear of the left ankle several years ago. The doc I saw said I could go either way on the surgery, but since I was so active, the best alternative was to sew the ends back together. He said with natural healing, the ends might not heal together and therefore the ligament would be weaker than if it was healed end to end.
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http://www.cands.net/climbing.html
is the URL for the C&S webpage. There is a lot of info about SC Wall, including photos, on this site.
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On a related topic, how many people can recall the chicken bolts on the 5th pitch (I remember seeing two)? (I imagine they were placed due to a lack of sufficient numbers of wide pins on the FA)
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From where this thread has gone, I am off topic here, but anyway...
Chouinard originally coughed up the idea that the negative was better than the positive for arresting on really hard surfaces (ice and frozen-crusted snow.) His rationale was that the negative wouldn't bite so quickly and therefore possibly wrench the axe out of your hands during an arrest.
For details, see his treatise in "Climbing Ice"
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Canis Crag specs:
1/4 mile wide
300+ meters tall
Solid, clean granite
Cracks (finger to offwidth), steep, slabs, overlaps, and a killer squeeze thing through a roof.
One unfinished route is a 5.9/10a hand crack to a ledge. Potential for a continuation of the crack to the top with a bit of gardening.
One route is the easiest route on the crag at about 5.6/7; discontinuous cracks to a low angle dihedral, 1.5 pitches
North facing aspect, 2 mile approach with a more direct possible after beating some brush to find the route.
The most distinct aspect of this crag (besides the carcasses of two terrier type dogs at the base) is a steep slab in the center with wicked overlaps at the top. Could make for perhaps 3 pitches of sustained climbing per route.
When I get a more direct trail into the base, finish the handcrack to the top, and one more crack line that I have been eyeing, I'll post the location.
Hopefully the end of this summer.
Though I do like the idea of a trade for the magic carpet ride.
[This message has been edited by ScottP (edited 05-24-2001).]
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We have a quarter.
Do I hear 35 cents?
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Cavedude,
It's a pretty one, ain't it? The angle of the photos doesn't show the true width of the crag.
Erik,
Even better; it's STATE land.
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A while back I found a granite crag in Washington (about 2 hours from Seattle) that appeared to have no development on it. I put in two routes and since this forum is touted as an e-bay for climbing, just for fun I would see if any body would like to bid on directions to this lovely spot. Highest bidder gets the beta.
You can view it at http://home.att.net/~preshos/various.htm
(Look for "Canis Crag")
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This site is nothing more than an arena for a very diverse group of people to get together and commiserate about a common interest. Like the Usenet sites rec.climbing and rec.backcountry, you have those who use it to gather info about routes they want to do, those who use it to spew their own dogma, those who use it to gain knowledge (which I find quite scary), and those who use it as a segment (or all) of their social lives.
You can't control how others use this, or any other site. To try is futile.
Roll with the punches, take one to the head, or get out of the ring; the choice is yours.
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Paul,
I have found that a few minutes of stretching the forearms by gently pulling back on the fingers after a good pump alleviates some of the day-after effects.
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Rattlesnake Lake is out by North Bend (30 minutes from Seattle) and since the water level is so low, there are exposed boulders with some good problems.
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Have you considered the Sawtooth range in Idaho? There are some really nice places to go and routes to climb. Elephants Perch and Finger of Fate are worthy objectives.
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Bolt-mania
in Spray
quote:Originally posted by Dru:(snip)they can probably make no-trace, stick -on, removable bolts out of this stuff too. the old era of drilled holes may end and make all our ethics obsolete!![/b]
Reminds me of my first trip to the Valley in the early 80's...
there was a ladder of loops of quarter inch webbing superglued up the back side of the Columbia Boulder in Camp 4. Those guys sure were hard core about body weight placements.
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quote:Originally posted by pope:Hey Hemlock, I knew you'd make it. Nice place here. Didn't you just love the Neutered Prince quiz question? "Who did the first ascent of blah blah blah?" Answer: "I did." Does somebody need a pat on the back?
No pat needed, thanks (though I do think you are being overly sensitive about the whole thing). I asked the question to see if anybody else was claiming the first ascent. I find it interesting that I sent a letter to Smoot about it with the same name change only days after I climbed it.
If Massey says he got it first, that's fine with me. I would still like to hear how he did it without disturbing any of the dirt on the holds.
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My friend Rob was at the top of Davis Holland (base of Lovin Arms). He says the Upper Wall shook like Jello. There was big stuff dropping all around them, but not so much as a grain of sand fell on them.
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quote:Originally posted by pope:My memories pretty hazy, but I could sware that Mike told me he was there when the block fell...right under it! He apparently got the end of his rope cut, but then turned around and climbed it before the dust settled.
Sometime during the week of October 13th-18th, 1991 that block fell off. I was out there on the 13th and again on the 18th where my partner and I saw that it had come off. I led up the lower part just to see what it looked like only to find that every conceiveable edge (including the mantle into the depression left by the block) that could hold dirt was undisturbed. The crack behind the block that took a yellow tcu to protect the moves from the depression to the traverse was completely filled with dirt. I unearthed a placement, swept off some more holds and proceeded into the traverse and the rest of the pitch.
I later spoke to some guys who say they were there and that a part of their rope is under the debris, but they never said a word about climbing it.
I also later heard rumor that Fred Grafton got the first ascent, though from the completely undisturbed nature of the rock uncovered by the block falling off, I believe that I got there first.
It would be fun to talk to Mike about this.
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It wasn't Mike Massey, unless he missed crucial holds and bypassed obvious gear placements (the latter possibly being the case if Mike's reputation is what I hear it is.).
[This message has been edited by ScottP (edited 05-15-2001).]
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It wasn't Al.
BTW, for another $200.00 and what's behind the curtain, who did the first ascent of Princely Ambitions after the block fell off?
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My source said Fred threatened to punch out the lights of a guy named "Shop Boy". Is this Big John? (He didn't divulge Shop Boy's true identity.)
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More Index trivia:
What is the nickname of the person largely responsible for hanging the boarshead from bolts on Model Worker AND why was the tradition finally stopped?
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I'm surprised no one has mentioned the ride from the top of the basin under the east face of Chair Peak. Not a long one, but you definately get some speed up.
I second the Interglacier on Rainier, the Sitkum Glacier on Glacier Peak and Colchuck Glacier.
Another short and steep is the drop from Headlee Pass below Sperry Peak.
Reap What You Sow?
in Climber's Board
Posted
Poetic justice, for sure...