ScottP
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Posts posted by ScottP
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>have you climbed this route?
No.
>what are the objective hazards?
Falling rock, falling ice, hidden crevasses, gravity.
>can it be done in two days in early season?
Depends
>what are snow conditions like back there?
Cold, wet, white.
>avalanches?
Probably
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Come on Scott, you weren't asking for beta, you were asking for a forecast.
My point being that if you want useful beta, ask questions more specific than "what are the objective hazards?", "what are snow conditions like back there?" and the painfully vague "avalanches?"
>in any case- contrast your response with the >others- can you see any difference?
The post by "W" right after mine... look closely and you'll see many similarities. He just used more words.
>just how specific should the questions be?
Specific enough that someone like me won't have fuel to burn you with. Something more like, "Is there any entrance onto the glacier that is better than any other to avoid getting chopped by falling stuff?" or, as you asked on your second attempt, " 'has anyone found soft, wet snow' recently?"
Then there is always the time-tested method of walking in there to see if the route is in condition, and, if it isn't, have a secondary objective in mind.
ps
>has anyone found soft, wet snow or has this week of mostly sunny skies firmed things up a bit? have the recent warm temps caused lots of large slides?
IS there something a tad contradictory in these two sentences? (insert winkysmiley here)
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Charlie wrote:
>You guys need to get out more
You've got that right...
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"Scott" wrote: thanks w. scott p- ooh look, you made a witty! clever, clever!
Actually Scott, the purpose of my post was to make a point about the general nature of your request:
You ask about objective hazards on an alpine route. How much more detailed can one get than stuff falls on you or you fall into stuff? (I didn't mention possible weather hazards or any of a number of the other objective hazards that might be encountered when doing any alpine route.)
You ask about snow conditions and avalanches as if these were static things. It is a glacier for god's sake; changes occur quickly.
You ask if it can be done in two days: depends on your physical condition and route conditions, both of which nobody else is absolutely sure of.
You asked for generalities and I gave you generalities.
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The west buttress of Blueberry Hill in Darrington is multipitch, has one move of 5.8 (the rest being 4th to 5.7), fantastic views, and an approach that is almost entirely 3rd class granite slabs.
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A few years ago while climbing the Dark Crystal, I found a #3 friend on the route. It took a little fiddling , but eventually came out. It had remnants of blue spray paint on it (which I scraped off.) The next season while bouldering at Bruce's Boulder, I saw a guy with a rack of gear painted the same color. I asked him if he had ever done the Dark Crystal route. He eyed me suspiciously for a moment and then responded with "Did you get that Friend out?" I told him I had. He just shrugged and went back tyo belaying his partner. His partner seemed rather perturbed that I knew who's gear it was and didn't offer to give it back.
The owner KNEW that it was no longer his gear. He abandoned it. I found and retrieved it. If I had found that Friend in the parking lot I would have seen it as lost, not abandoned and would have offered it to him.
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Originally posted by ScottP:
I wear a pair of 20 year old Raichle Montagna's under a pair of Yeti SuperGaitors. My feet stay warm and dry but for some sweat now and then.[/b]
Dru replied:
"just think, if you had plastic boots you wouldn't have to wear supergaitors to keep your feet dry"
Yes, but I would have to wear gaitors anyway to keep snow out of the tops, leather is more versatile, and supergaitors look so cool
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Dru wrote:
"IMHO when it comes to slogging through the slush all day NO leather boot out there keeps your feet warm or dry. leather is great for rock and/or mixed, where it's dry, but for wet snow, so common hereabouts, plastic is the way to go."
I wear a pair of 20 year old Raichle Montagna's under a pair of Yeti SuperGaitors. My feet stay warm and dry but for some sweat now and then.
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Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park is a pretty cool place, as is Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park. From the latter, you can drive out to the coast to a place called Fern Canyon. It is out of the way, but worth the trip.
The breakfast at the Samoa Cookhouse in Arcata (actually out on the north jetty at Samoa)is worthy also.
If you want to do some good bouldering, check out Moonstone and Lufenholtz Beaches between Trinidad and Arcata.
Check out: http://www.cranc.com/
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Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park is a pretty cool place, as is Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park. From the latter, you can drive out to the coast to a place called Fern Canyon. It is out of the way, but worth the trip.
The breakfast at the Samoa Cookhouse in Arcata (actually out on the north jetty at Samoa)is worthy also.
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Speaking of Liquid Nitrogen...
Does anyone know if it has ever been onsighted?
Scott
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Peter Puget wrote:
>FYI: Dick Cilley is just a guidebook >invention when the FA party was unknown.
That's pretty funny.
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Erik,
You imagine incorrectly...no wait... yes, Canis Crag IS in the vicinity of Darrington.
Actually, there are a couple of good crack lines I want to do before I relinquish the crag to people with more time than I currently have (read two small children).
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After finishing Godzilla one late fall day, Kevin and I were headed back to the car, walking beneath the Slab routes. On the ledge above the first pitch of the Lizard we noticed a guy anchored to the tree belaying another guy starting out on the thin corner of the second pitch. Obviously out of his comfort zone, he had placed one piece low and was standing on the holds above the first move, sketching more than a bit. I said to Kevin, "If he comes off he's going to rip that piece." Seconds after I finished speaking, the guy peels. The piece rips as he bounces once on the ledge and goes over the edge. His belayer locks off as he swings helmet first into the small corner at the bottom of the first pitch. My first thought was broken neck until he starts screaming and wiggling. Now I'm thinking brain damage. Kevin and I hurry over to find the guy quite dazed and freaked, but otherwise undamaged. I check him for signs of neurotrauma ("Where are you?" "Follow my fingers with your eyes.", etc.) as his partner raps from the tree. After a heavy dose of lecture about proper anchor position/directional placements, we left the newbie to contemplate taking up another sport.
On the other hand, as a rank beginner, I once launched onto a route at Patrick's Point State Park on the north coast of CA named appropriately Low Tide Crack. It was the day after my last finals at HSU and I felt huge.
I climbed up about 15 feet, placed an old #4 Chouinard stopper and continued jamming. I stopped to place another nut about ten feet higher and barndoored as I fiddled with the bundle of wires, ripping the skin off my left index finger down to meat. Brian caught me as my toes scraped the barnacles at the base of the route. I readily relinquished the lead and Brian, in a show of magnanimity never since equalled, lowered off to give me the easier upper third. It wasn't a big ride, but right below where I touched down was another 20 feet into the 48 degree water of the Pacific. If that stopper hadn't held, I would have bounced once and then been dashed to bits by the rollers beating on the base of Wedding Rock.
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Perhaps there is adventure in finding a way to avoid the fee/permit system that seems to be more and more a part of our avocation.
(There is a way to get in to do Serpentine Arete without having to get a permit and without running into The Man.)
ice cliff glacier
in Alpine Lakes
Posted
Scott,
I imagined you'd take a hint and some constructive criticism and learn from it rather than getting your drawers in a bunch.
I posted a response for just that reason.
Nothing macho about it.
Goodbye.