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tbrent

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    Head Buyer, Mountain Gear
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    Spokane, WA, USA

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  1. telling us about what's going on in your shorts again? Eh, caveboy?
  2. Hey caveboy. You say you are just a skeptic. Does that mean you are some expert ice climber or something? Have you designed your own leashes? If so, can we see them so we know what the perfect system is?
  3. I've got a pair of Grivel Light Machines, both with hammers and Freedom Leashes, a pair of Grivel Rambo Crampons with monos, and a pair of Rambo Comps with Duals for sale. All are only one year old. The tools $250.00 for the pair, Rambos $100.00, and the Rambo Comps $100.00. Anyone interested?
  4. It looks to me that the new Easy G leashes are the best non-detachable leash system out there. I think if you have used enough different leashes you could tell what will work well and what won't before you even get out there with them. What is "leash bullshit" anyways?
  5. I've used them mainly for ice climbing. I would guess 30-40 days. I'll probably use them only for glacier travel after this season. A pair of these weighs about the same as one 10.5mm x 60m. Something to think about if you normally carry one single rope plus a skinny line for double rope rappels.
  6. I've been climbing on a pair of PMI 8.1's for the last two years. 40.9 g/m, but what I like teh most about these ropes is that you can use them as twins or half ropes. PMI, in the past, has always been against making a twin rope becuase of the high impact forces. Take the Blue Water Ice Floss for example. The impact force is 10KN. That's higher than the UIAA's minimum open gate strength for carabiners! PMI has had their 8.1mm in their line for a while but they only sold it as a half rope. Then they decided to test it as a twin and see the results. The inpact force was only 8.4KN. That's less than their 10.5mm. What this means is that you can clip the rope any way you want, both in the same piece or one rope per piece if using them like half ropes. If the route wanders, alternate your clips. If you get scared, clip them both. No reason to carry a single any more, unless you want somthing burly or you're going to TR. T-
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