cmonster

I don't know about the current approach conditions, but I do know that it is rare to not want an axe for the snowfield below the false summit this early in the season.

I have some Nunatka gear. A few parkas, a half bag, a backcountry blanket and an alpinist. The gear is excellenct. Super light. Super quality. The service is MUCH better than Feathered Friends. MUCH!!! Check them out. http://www.nunatakgear.com

I seem to remember someone posting beta (not sure if it was in this forum) on a bypass of Sharkfin Col (we want to get onto the Boston Glacier) that did not require the 5.7 moves in the Col and all the heartache. Anyone remember/know anything about the bypass? Does it even exist?

Has anyone had any experience with Rock Empire cams? The recent Rock & Ice said a few things about the trigger, but not much else. They meet UIAA standards. They seem to be unbelievably inexpensive. $199 for 8 units. WOW. Thoughts?

Can anyone point me to some good resources on learning to rope solo? Books, videos, etc...

I'm looking for some good resources on learning 2 person crevasse rescue. Recommendations?

Tod Thanks. I was thinking that the differences might be due to accessing the ridge from the east or west. I wondering if the 5.7-5.8 folks started on the east side of the buttress? Accessing directly from the glacier (i.e. west) is what we've been talking about. We have plenty of time and have done the research, so if our packs are too heavy, we'll camp up at Luna and then head up the buttress. If our packs are light enough, hopefully a bivy on top of Fury and then out Access creek without having to drop back into the cirque. Z- We've been pouring honey on our faces and letting the ants go at it while dogs gnawed on our kneecaps. We figure nothing in the pickets will be as bad ;-) Actually, we just plan to take things slow and not try to do too much. Many options and alternate plans. We know we're gonna be tired and that we might get spanked by the weather. By keeping our plans realistic, I think we are prepared to succeed rather than flail. Good climbing. [This message has been edited by cmonster (edited 05-25-2001).]

Wayne and Todd, Why the difference in description of the route? One has a lot of 3rd and 4th with a little 5th while the other has 5.6-5.8. Quite a difference.

philfort, The route in Selected Climbs II is actually the Southeast glacier, not the N/Buttress.

I am looking to get some first hand information from anyone who has done the N/Buttress on Fury. I've read the guide books, looked at the maps, seen slides, etc. We are planning to go in via Wiley Ridge, climb Challenger and then Fury N/Buttress out Access Creek. What is the climbing like on the N/Buttress (i.e. grade, difficulty, etc.)? Is it easy enough to climb with big Picket packs? If so, that could save us having to drop back into the cirque for our gear. What kind of pro have you used on the route? Pickets? Screws? Cams? etc... Lay down the skinny for me... p.s. and yes, we are mentally preparing to get our ass' beat down by the approach.

Thanks for the post. It answers some of my questions about the carryover. Still, it doesn't really talk about gear or how they really actually got on the buttress. Keep the info coming.

I have been using a 2R for about 2 years now. It's the only tent I ever carry. If my partners want to use anything else, then they carry it. It is SOOOO light and big for it's weight. It does tend to get some condensation in the cascade winters, but so what. It doesn't prevent me from sleeping and the weight savings is SOOOO sweet. I used this on an extended trip in the High Sierras last summer and it was perfect for some days and a little warm for others. If I was to do it over again, I would order the side doors. They only add a few ounces and make the tent much more versatile. One word, you will have to take good care of the tent. Treat it right and it will treat you right. Bawitdaba

Okay, here's the real schiz nizzy from my point of view. I have used the Serratus Genie (Long) almost exclusive over the past 2 years. I have used it for 1 and 2 day trips over Stuart's N. Ridge. I have used it for a 3 week, late summer, backpacking trip in the Sierra. I have used it as my only pack on Rainier (August). Basically, I have used it almost everywhere. When did I not use it? 1. Rainier attempt in the winter. not enough room for base camp gear. I did use it as the summit pack on the attempt. 2. Ski mountaineering trips. No ski slots. 3. Friday night karaoke. No pack needed. This pack is actually comfortable. It took a few times for someone to convice me to try it, but once I did, I was a convert. It is the most comfortable pack I have ever worn which is saying alot considering I have a few McHales. I recommended this pack to a friend as a summit pack for his (successful) attempt on Denali last year. Upon return, he raved about the pack. "Carried it all over the mountain". It's LIGHT and packable. Plus, it only cost about $40 with shipping from MEC. So, even if you don't like it, you are not out TOO much dough. I have not tried the little Lowe, but I think the Serratus has more room. I have tried the Lafuma 32. It SUCKED. It was the absolute most uncomfortable pack I have ever worn. It just plain hurt. I lent it to a few friends and they absolutely hated it as well. Jim Nelson is the only one I have evern know who like the La Fuma. If your looking for a summit pack go SMALL.