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Everything posted by pope

  1. Sport vs Trad

    "Hi, the name's John, and I'm a hot-shit climber when Dave Burdick is dragging me up a helichopper-accessed rock in Alaska. You wanna know what I think? I'll betcha do, since I'm a celebrity. Well, sport climbing made me a stud and it will work for you too. In fact, there's no other way to get strong, so we need lots of bolts my friends. But I don't like 'em in the mountains unless I happen to be mixed climbin' a modern despo."
  2. Sport vs Trad

    hmmmm i'm not sure you'd get a lot of disagreement with those, would you? Were you even climbing during the Dreadful Dan's conflict or were you still peeing in your trainers? "Bolting restraint is appropriate as long as it's not in my backyard."
  3. Sport vs Trad

    Well there's ethics and then there's style. Style has to do with choices one makes during a climb which cannot be detected by the next party to ascend the route. If you wish to dog on the rope and pull on gear while you're ampin' up for the big "send", that's generally a stylistic choice. In other words, choosing aid climbing as your mode probably won't affect the next guy, not unless you then claim a first free ascent without reporting your poor style. There is no difference. So why bother with all the bolts? How? I'm sure your answer is that sport climbing is the secret to their strength, a point which is frequently made. Really? Then shouldn't every bolt chaser be capable of 5.13? I know more than a few who don't come close. Furthermore, elite climbers achieved tremendous levels of fitness before sport climbing arrived, not to mention the ability to climb hard routes with difficult protection.
  4. Sport vs Trad

    Or Infinite Bliss.
  5. Sport vs Trad

    Dan's Dreadful Direct and Cunning Stunt for example.
  6. Sport vs Trad

    KK, don't maintain that position too long. One of these days you're going to visit a sport climbing area other than Exit 38. Ever been to Smith Rock? Here's a spot that was frequented by hikers and bird watchers together with a handful of respectful rock climbers before near-sighted rock jocks threw their ethics out the window and decided it was acceptable to rap bolt every line of pockets, corner and crack in the park. The impact in terms of numbers, erosion, garbage, and noise have wrecked a place which once was special. Similar evolution at the City of Rocks. If sport climbing and grid bolting only existed at scruffy crags in the middle of clear-cut ORV areas, I wouldn't protest. Instead, bolts show up in the form of rap-placed protection and sport anchors three feet below a good belay ledge on crags where generations of climbers found enjoyment without them. What I find most interesting is how many people on this site come out in strident opposition to the removal of bolts which many climbers find offensive, in cases that should be clear-cut. Climbs which protect adequately with natural gear, climbs which have been boldly ascended without bolts, short climbs that have been top-roped, climbs requiring larger cams to which chicken bolts are later added. And when serious, specific discussions appear on this site wherein the removal of such bolts is debated, perhaps in colorful language, the post is ALWAYS moved to spray. So to Bug and others who get frustrated by all of this, just spray away, throw a wrench in the machine once in a while, and send me a PM if you wanna remove some chicken bolts.
  7. [TR] Brass Balls

    For Stevie SeaGal, JakeyP, ChoadLoad.....and all who are annoyed by the frequent posting of an image which occasionally appears on cc.com, we bring you the following photo essay from a visit to Castle Rock in the early 1990's. My friend Jon wanted to do some climbing photography. Since I hated carrying camera equipment but enjoyed photography, I talked him into a climb of Brass Balls. The year we did this, I was into soloing climbs that were well within my ability and/or that I had climbed frequently with a rope. I had climbed Brass Balls ropeless maybe three times before our trip, so for me it was pretty routine. But Jon had only climbed a couple of things prior to this and for him it was a pretty big deal. I remember that he was intimidated by the first roof, so I talked him into taking a swing on the rope to calm his nerves. One photo included below illustrates just how steep this two-roof climb is, and in retrospect, relative to his previous experience, Jon was the guy with Brass Balls on the day we did this. The logistics were pretty simple. He photographed while I climbed solo, then I returned and set up both a rap rope and a top rope so that I could hang in space near the action, both belaying and photographing. When the party was over, I shoved some stones in the crack at the belay and descended off slings. The previous photo gives a feel for the steepness of the route. OK kids, that's all. I recently ran into Jon and amazingly he still had the negatives which I borrowed. They were generously scanned by Dwayner. Does anybody know a photoshop trick for correcting that red linear defect in the film? The only correction technique I can think of is going to be extremely tedious. Is there a way to select and color correct a linear error? Thanks in advance.
  8. Sport vs Trad

    Wow! A new mountain bike TR in the rock climbing forum. This is finally catching!
  9. [TR] Brass Balls

    Thanks Bill. Funny that I got into hiking because of photography, and hiking eventually made me curious about climbing. Then, the more I got into climbing, the less I wanted to carry a 35 SLR with multiple lenses or even a zoom. Wish we had digital photography 20 years ago.
  10. [TR] Brass Balls

    OW, you're too kind. I may take you up on that offer. Always wanted to check out your private crag.
  11. [TR] Brass Balls

    Thanks. Those are the two tools I tried and I found it to be a bit tedious, but at least it works.
  12. Which of the following photos best illustrates alpine excellence? (from Pope's gallery.....note that the CORRECT answer appears scrambled following the image selection) Choice A: "B_LT's don't shut down my crag. Talkin' 'bout 'em on the interweb do." Choice B: "Everything AlpineK wants for Christmas." Choice C: "Rising star 'borrows' Pope-n-Dwayner's fabulous Plop-Pad......just in case one of the 27 bolts fails while aiding.....I mean.....'working' the route." Choice D: "Kevbone tries a sit-start." Choice E: "Mountain-busting Fairweather drags a melon to the summit of Sluiskin Chief." Answer: hiocCe E
  13. Which of the following photos.....

    Jake's Response: Thanks for the invite. But do you really climb, or do you just run your mouth on cc.com all day? I see you don't have any trip reports and come to think of it, I've never seen your name associated with one. Anyway, if you do wanna hook up....for climbing or maybe just to play some computer games, compare RAM and video cards and such.....that would be swell. But let's keep it private, OK? I'm pretty sure that if Pope catches us out at Index, he'll invite us to climb routes where we won't always have three bolts within reach at all times, and the stuff he climbs even today will probably make us cry.
  14. B-U-S-T-E-D!!! ....by the fashion police. Hey, I appreciate when you let us know that we're not trendy. Even though that webbing would probably hold your fat girlfriend AND twice the beer you can drink in a year in a 50-foot whipper over a sharp edge, you are correct to say that the color is WAY out of vogue and we should probably retire it immediately, then head straight to REI where some little dork with a green vest will help us spend our money on something hip, trendy and decorated in "modern" colors. Hey, Pete_H, is that you? Or perhaps you can be found in this crowd? These guys need help gettin' ready for the big "send" at Exit 38, and I'll bet you can help them look their best.
  15. Which of the following photos.....

    1 Photo = 1000 words. Every power drill owner also owns (and proudly displays) a pair of knee pads. Interesting.
  16. Which of the following photos.....

    OH......MY......GOODNESS! You know him? We'd like our fabulous Plop-Pad returned......just as soon as he's done with it. Could you get the message to him? It would be cool if he'd autograph it, but we understand if he's too busy or if his sponsors have a problem with that sort of thing. Now here's what I really think. Having known the guy for more than a decade, I assume he still has a sense of humor. Last time I talked to him, he drove all the way down here from Seattle to have lunch and talk ethics relating to rap bolting. He is without a doubt a gifted and dedicated climber and an incredibly nice, sincere guy. What I couldn't convince him of is that most of the rap-bolted mixed climbs up there could be top-roped with very similar adventure, risk and fun, but without all the mess. Why would anybody want to go through all that trouble and expense to make a mess when a top-rope would (in most cases) get the job done?
  17. Probably only ten here, but none of them counts unless it was completed as a club-sanctioned "climb".
  18. History 24 Irish Cabin peaks Notice that not all 24 peaks are within current MRNP boundaries as the "history" URL suggests.
  19. Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. Groucho Marx
  20. Scrambling on the north ridge. View of Grand Park. For Tvashtarkatena. Threatening weather. Fairweather is a mountain-busting animal. I clipped this to his butt and he didn't even notice.
  21. More pix (from Rob): Rock climbing....anyone? K's Spire funk. Approaching Meany Crest (on the way out) View down into Summerland from Meany Crest Rob and Pope.
  22. John Bachar Dies Free Soloing

    One would hope he has a will and/or instructions regarding who should take custody of his son.
  23. Little T, Big T, and Fairweather all in the same photo.
  24. John Bachar Dies Free Soloing

    Largo recently said, "Anybody can fall anywhere, anytime." I'm tippin' one back for a guy I never met. He had more than a small influence on how I interpreted the rules of the game. Heart and soul, Bachar cared about preserving the adventure offered by rock climbing and objected appropriately to those who would change the medium to offer anything less.
  25. looking for used rope

    I've got one....couple of gaping wounds, general abrasions, typical dorky sport-climbers color scheme. Now worthless for climbing, but holds tremendous sentimental value. A bargain at $240. Will accept cash with three pieces of ID.