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Paul_K

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Posts posted by Paul_K

  1. And yet another vote for the Ferrata Jacket and Pants. The pants are indead heavy and heavy duty - I've found I use them in fall-winter-spring. The jacket has worked well for me. Its just the right weight to keep the wind off, yet not so heavy that I overheat on glacier slogs.

     

    All at a great price too.

  2. I was up there 6/12. Pretty much solid snow from the lake all the way up. Definitely needed an ice axe, and we had to chop some steps in the gully where the snow was shaded.

     

    We climbed to the top of the snow in the gully and then directly up the gully. I talking to other people it seemed the correct route is to look at the left side of the gully where it narrows and climb from there to the notch.

  3. She was so distracted by the firm cherry red posterior of glissading in shorts man that she completely erred in positioning the head of her ice axe while practicing glissading. Though the dagger sharp pick of her axe was safely wrapped in multiple layers of duct tape, it was still pointed at that most delicate portion of her anatomy.

     

    He gently corrected her hand position, and suggested that after the wrap up meeting she retire with him to his well constructed snow cave for some instruction in the art of horizontal glissading. “How will I know its you?” she asked. He replied that he had his name written on duct tape in a place only the most privileged of students would see.

  4. screw that. the real women of cc.com know better than to haggle over some mystery climber. we already know that the cams are borrowed, he spent his last dime on that rope and the tricked out toyota PU is a 1986 that barely runs and might get us to the parking lot....or NOT. the real women of cc.com are out haggling over who gets the next pitch. come on...we know better than to haggle over climbers. sheesh.

     

    yelrotflmao.gif True dat!

  5. trask said:

    I wondered how long it would be till the Bush Administration brought out the evil Prince of Darkness. Should the Reagan Presidential Papers ever see the light of day as required by Federal Law his Treasonous actions will be exposed to the light of day. I feel he will go down as one of the most evil men in the history of America.

     

    the appointment

     

    Why don't you tell us how you really feel? Don't hold back.

     

    I'm curious, how come you have such a dislike for Baker?

  6. Ursa_Eagle said:

    I spent 3 nights in a Bibler Fitzroy this past summer, and there's enough room in there for 2 + some gear. I was definately impressed with it, and I'd likely buy one if I could find a good deal on it (and had the cash).

     

    Have you looked into Hilleberg? My friends took one on Denali last year and loved it.

     

    Which model Hilleberg did they have?

  7. catbirdseat said:

    Supposing there was such a thing as a nudist's license. What would the application look like? I mean, what sort of questions would they ask you?

     

    1. Do you bear any resemblance to Trask?

     

    If yes, please do not complete the rest of the form, and please keep clothed at all times. Covering your face would also be a good idea.

  8. Russ -

     

    I was on the second rope team. There was a party of two - a guy and a gal that crossed the glacier and climbed up from the bottom. They were in voice contact with the last of our party. The gal was leading and not finding anything to put in an anchor. Did you run into them on the way out? We never saw them complete the route and figured they bailed and traversed on the ledges.

     

    MaryK -

     

    Yikes hellno3d.gif Good job, I wouldn't be a happy camper on that hard snow without crampons and an ax.

  9. Four of us climbed the North Face of Vesper on Sunday. It was fun moderate climbing in perfect weather.

     

    We opted not to descend to the glacier and start the route from the bottom. Instead we traversed the ledge system to join the route about mid face. If you want to do the glacier you head to the lowest notch between Sperry and Vesper. The ledges start at a notch higher up on Vesper.

     

    We traversed about 150 to 200 yards of fairly level rock and heather to rock step. None of us had done the route before, so we started belaying here. The first pitch lead up and over the rock step and traversed some more. The second pitch went around a corner and did a rising traverse. The first two pitches could be scrambled.

     

    The next pitch went up and right, and the next pitch went to the left to the base of the dihedral. The start of getting into the dihedral had the hardest climbing on the route, mid fifth class, with the first 20 feet or so not protect-able. After that we kept in the dihedral with low fifth class climbing for about two thirds of its length, and then moved out onto the slabs. From here there are a myriad of routes to the top of the slabs following any number of easy ledges and cracks. I followed on this section and stayed off the cracks and ledges for some fun mellow friction climbing.

     

    I'll go back and do this one again, but from the glacier up this time.

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