Charlie
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Posts posted by Charlie
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The intention of this post is to provide a resource of information, not speculation- we all know that most of the 5.8s at vantage are really 5.7, and the 5.10s should be 5.8.... i just wanted to be able to write in the correct (previously established, not new opinions) ratings into my new book, and thought others might want to do the same.-------here's what i have spotted so far- Vantage: the uprising(says 5.7, should be 5.8), easy off(says 5.10c should be 5.10b), tangled up in blue(says 5.10c should be 5.9) narlux(says 5.11a should be 5.10c)....Castle Rock: angle(says 5.10b, should be 5.10a) damnation crack(says 5.8 should be 5.9)
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i recently bought the ROCK CLIMBING WASHINGTON book by Jeff Smoot- I noticed several incorrect ratings of climbs (in the areas i was very familiar with) in frenchman coulee and lworth. This could be a problem if you are using the book in an area new to you. How about posting the mistakes and giving the correct ratings so we can make revisions?
[This message has been edited by Charlie (edited 10-01-2001).]
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I do know for sure, that that goat was at least 18 years old- and definitely respected me for my personality, and wasnt in it just for my beautiful body...
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I dont know about this charlie guy(although he sounds like a very cool guy- whom im sure is fast asleep because class starts tommorow) but i do know about a guy named james(jameserous) who, aside from being an extraordinary rockclimber is an avid wind surfer) has been threatening to bring his board up to ingalls, will definitely bypass bouldering gumbies in bringing the alpne environment close to home. see what happens...
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after searching the web- are swauk pinnacles the crags visable from 97, way up on the hillside sticking out? Im talking about the crag right off of the road. Anybody know what this is?
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I saw the missing hangers at clamshell also- I just figured somebody was bolting ANOTHER slab in the icicle and couldn't afford to buy thier own hangers- spent all thier money on lycra tights and bits for thier rotohammers.
[This message has been edited by Charlie (edited 09-24-2001).]
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pantera-----FUCKING HOSTILE!!!
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see "more ice" post.
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colchuck glacier- anyone been there this late? I was in the area a couple of monthes ago and thought it might be worthy ice(on the right)- maybe a day trip this weekend from the cc fall ropeup? If so, Im down, if people are interested, lets bring some tools!
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anybody ever climb there? The rock climbing wash. book mentions it, but doesnt describe any routes. Is it worthwhile? Are there any access issues? I just noticed them yesterday on the way back from lworth- they're only 1/2 hour from eburg!
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GOOD JOB GUYS!!!!
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yesss! finally something useful from this site! My personal favorite was the amatuer facial cumshot page. Way better than hearing a bunch of dudes complaining about bolts.
[This message has been edited by Charlie (edited 09-20-2001).]
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that bolt was there for the same reason that there is an old bolt on cocaine crack and classic crack- the same reason every crack in yosemite has a line of scars going the whole length of it. That is "trad" climbing. Climbing a crack while placing removable protection along the way is not "traditional" by any means. Most lines(including outer space) were aided, by use of pitons and quarter inch bolts origionally. Old bolts on old climbs are not an issue- new bolts on climbs that were previously lead without them are an issue.
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quote:Originally posted by texplorer:Jim,I think the highest point to bivy would be right at the notch. When we did the climb about 3-4 weeks ago there a few guys who tried to go up further. We saw them the next morning on a 45 degree slope, hooked in with their harnesses on the north face. It looked like it really sucked. I didn't see any other suitable sites up higher than the notch.
yeah, I was one of those guys- it did suck. We were trying to top out before the weather got any worse, my partners headlamp stopped working so thats where we called it a night. (the weather cleared by morning, Im still bitching at him for talking me into that one!)
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Here is another email I recieved which I think is worth reading: This is a rational and thought provoking commentary. I think it is important
enough to forward to
everyone you can possibly think of. It comes from Tamim, a writer and
columnist in San Francisco, who comes from
Afghanistan. This is very, very interesting and a little chilling....
* * * *
I've been hearing a lot of talk about "bombing Afghanistan back to the Stone
Age." Ronn Owens, on KGO Talk Radio today, allowed that this would mean
killing innocent people, people who had nothing to do with this atrocity,
but "we're at war, we have to accept collateral damage. What else can we
do?" Minutes later I heard some TV pundit discussing whether we "have the
belly to do what must be done." And I thought about the issues being raised
especially hard because I am from Afghanistan, and even though I've lived
here for 35 years I've never lost track of what's going on there. So I want
to tell anyone who will listen how it all looks from where I'm standing. I
speak as one who hates the Taliban and Osama Bin Laden. There is no doubt in
my mind that these people were responsible for the atrocity in>New York. I
agree that something must be done about those monsters. But the Taliban and
Ben Laden are not Afghanistan. They're not even the government of
Afghanistan. The Taliban are a cult of ignorant psychotics who took over
Afghanistan in 1997. Bin Laden is a political criminal with a plan. When you
think Taliban, think Nazis. When you think Bin Laden,think Hitler. And when
you think "the people of Afghanistan" think "the Jews in the concentration
camps." It's not only that the Afghan people had nothing to do with this
atrocity. They were the first victims of the perpetrators. They would exult
if someone would come in there, take out the Taliban and clear out the rats
nest of international thugs holed up in their country. Some say, why don't
the Afghans rise up and overthrow the Taliban? The answer is, they're
starved, exhausted, hurt, incapacitated, suffering. A few years ago, the
United Nations estimated that there are 500,000 disabled orphans in
Afghanistan--a country with no economy, no food. There are millions of
widows. And the Taliban has been burying these widows alive in mass graves.
The soil is littered with land mines, the farms were all destroyed by the
Soviets. These are a few of the reasons why the Afghan people have not
overthrown the Taliban. We come now to the question of bombing Afghanistan
back to the Stone Age. Trouble is, that's been done. The Soviets took care
of it already. Make the Afghans suffer? They're already suffering. Level
their houses? Done. Turn their schools into piles of rubble? Done. Eradicate
their hospitals? Done. Destroy their infrastructure? Cut them off from
medicine and health care? Too late. Someone already did all that. New bombs
would only stir the rubble of earlier bombs. Would they at least get the
Taliban? Not likely. In today's Afghanistan, only the Taliban eat, only they
have the means to move around. They'd slip away and hide. Maybe the bombs
would get some of those disabled orphans, they don't move too fast, they
don't even have wheelchairs. But flying over Kabul and dropping bombs
wouldn't really be a strike against the criminals who did this horrific
thing. Actually it would only be making common cause with the Taliban--by
raping once again the people they've been raping all this time So what else
is there? What can be done, then? Let me now speak with true fear and
trembling. The only way to get Bin Laden is to go in there with ground
troops. When people speak of "having the belly to do what needs to be done"
they're thinking in terms of having the belly to kill as many as needed.
Having the belly to overcome any moral qualms about killing innocent people.
Let's pull our heads out of the sand. What's actually on the table is
Americans dying. And not just because some Americans would die fighting
their way through Afghanistan to Bin Laden's hideout. It's much bigger than
that folks. Because to get any troops to Afghanistan, we'd have to go
through Pakistan. Would they let us? Not likely. The conquest of Pakistan
would have to be first. Will other Muslim nations just stand by? You see
where I'm going. We're flirting with a world war between Islam and the West.
And guess what: that's Bin Laden's program. That's exactly what he wants.
That's why he did this. Read his speeches and statements. It's all right
there. He really believes Islam would beat the west. It might seem
ridiculous, but he figures if he can polarize the world into Islam and the
West, he's got a billion soldiers. If the west wreaks a holocaust in those
lands, that's a billion people with nothing left to lose, that's even better
from Bin Laden's point of view. He's probably wrong, in the end the West
would win, whatever that would mean, but the war would last for years and
millions would die, not just theirs but ours. Who has the belly for that?
Bin Laden does. Anyone else?
Tamim Ansary
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the following is an email I recieved: IF I WERE PRESIDENT GEORGE W. BUSH'S SPEECHWRITER!
> > > >Good evening, my fellow Americans. > > > >First, I want to pass on my condolences to the people of New York and all >Americans that are hurting in this tragic time. You can rest assured that >anything and everything that can be done to assure the safety of our >country >will be done. This is the greatest country in the world and we will get >through this trying time. Now is the time for all people to set aside our >petty differences and show the world that no one or nothing can destroy the >fortitude of the American people. > > > >To the people responsible for Tuesday's tragedy, I say this: > > > >Are you f*cking kidding me? Are the turbans on your heads wrapped too >tight? Have you gone too long without a bath? Do you not know who you are >f*cking with? Americans are so hungry to kill, that we shoot at each other >every day. We will relish that opportunity for new targets for our >aggression. > > > >Have you forgotten history? What happened to the last people that started >f*cking around with us? Remember the little yellow bastards over in Japan? >We slapped them all over the Pacific and roasted about 2 million of them in >their own backyard. That's what we in America call a big ass barbecue.
>Ever seen Texas on a map? Every wonder why it's so big? > > > >Because we wanted it that way, Mexico started jacking around with the Alamo >and now they cut our lawns. England? We sent them packing. > > > >Ask you buddy Saddam about f*cking with the good ole USA. The only reason >he got away the first time is because it's too hard to shoot someone when >you're doubled over laughing at them. Our soldiers aren't trained to laugh >and shoot at the same time. Now he couldn't stop a pack of Cub Scouts from >taking over his sh!tty little country. > > > >Trust us, Afghanistan will end up a giant kitty litter box. Go ahead and >try to hide, bin Laden. There's not a hole deep enough or a mountain high >enough that's going to keep your camel-riding asses safe. We will bomb
>every inch of the country that harbors him, his camps, and any place that >looks or even smells like he was there. Hell, we might even drop a few
>bombs on people that have p*ssed us off in the past. This is America. We >kick ass. This is what we do. Go ahead and laugh now, but the Tomahawks >are coming and we will smoke your sorry asses. > > > >God Bless America!
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I went to vantage today- there is new spraypaint on the feathers, zigzagwall, and parking area. There is garbage everywhere. If those freaks want to camp there instead of at the gorge, they should be more respectfull! Who in the hell would think its cool to spraypaint on the rock!!!? I understand they were probably on acid at the time, but really, USE YOUR FUCKING BRAIN!!!
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seeking- climbing partner. female, blonde, nymphomaniac. Breast implants a plus. Experience level unimportant. You dont even need a sleeping bag- we can share mine.Im a very slow climber so bivies will will be expected, even while sport climbing.
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Will- went to beacon for the first time last weekend. Did you lead seagull? I TR 'ed it on the way down from the route to the right- 5.7 to 5.9 to 10.a? You end up on a big pillar whatever it is. Seagull was a calve pumper, the pro looked kinda thin. The locals said the routes were sandbags- I thought just the opposite(by lworth and index standards) That place is cool, but I dont think I would go out of my way to get there again. It was pretty funny walking down the tourist trail with rack and rope, after topping out- got some pretty funny comments from the tourists!
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this might be a long shot- im headed to beacon rock in the morning. my bud whos meeting me there forgot his guide book and im leaving to early to pick one up. can anyone give me route descriptions of something good (5.8-5.10) by tommorow morning? if so, please give detailed description including where the base of the route starts etc. keep in mind ive never been there before. if so, that would be super cool.
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answer:Clint Eastwood says it- in response to her opening her shirt, displaying her voluptious breasts. Hemlock- I see you made it back from your adventerous weekend with jamaima brown. I think the name is "pencil penis"
[This message has been edited by Charlie (edited 08-29-2001).]
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uhh, sure buddy, whatever
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Climbed Town crier with PNW legend "Big Joe" had the route to ourselves. He only let me lead the chimney and triple overhang (what a bully) We never found the 150' rap. - followed a trail that took us all the way to the ground?
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yosemite mountaineering school!!?.............Town Crier was a go!!
Rock Climbing Washington
in Climber's Board
Posted
if you find another 23 to add to your 2 cents, you can call someone who cares to hear your opinions! Im NOT talking about controversial ratings. when the the author calls a 5.9 a 5.10c, i don't think he is stating his opinion of the route, i think he made a misprint- that's all i'm looking for here: correcting misprints, not adjusting sandbags/softies. lets all pop a couple of ritalin and try to stay focused...geeez!