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Charlie

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Posts posted by Charlie

    Stuart 'Bilers

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    Colin- if you have the time, it would be cool if you could write a trip report. I would like to hear your logistics for climbing the north ridge from the car this time of year- what side did you come in from?

     

    [ 05-15-2002, 04:43 PM: Message edited by: Charlie ]

    Orbit topo????

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Thanks for the info! Chuck, your beta was very accurate ('cept the wobbley rock is gone- I guess somebody was really stupid)- I found the braille topo you left for me. We climbed outerspace AND orbit yesterday, that descent is so fun I thought I'd do it twice in one day! We ended up having to do outerspace in the rain.

    Orbit topo????

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by David Parker:

    quote:
    Originally posted by Charlie:

    So, no topo???
    [Confused]

    Topo's are for sport climbs. Don't you want ANY sort of adventure? Find the tree and figure it out yourself. The rest of us did!!
    Chill out. I was joking about the "so, no topo" thing because I wasn't expecting such detailed beta from chuck. You don't use a topo when you do a climb for the first time, when you have no idea where it even starts? I wanted a topo because I was doing both routes in a day with a late start and didn't want any complications. No "nice work, man" only blah blah blah...I am better than you because I didn't use a topo...blah blah blah. What were you doing yesterday? I know what I was doing.

    Town Crier clean?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Blah blah blah...anyway, yes, as of last summer, the whole route goes clean. The last 2 pitches (crux flare thing leading into the bolt ladder) can be linked into 1 with a 60m rope. The bolt are spaced out in 1 or 2 spots, so you either have to do a 5.8 free move or hook to reach the next bolt. The triple overhang pitch is mostly all fixed: old rusty pins with old freyed webbing. Have fun

    Driving to Yosemite 5/8-- Want to Come?

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    Shower at the housekeeping camp- just walk in like you know what you're doing and it'll be free. Early june is when all the college hotties start showing up for work at the villages- scoop one up before she finds out about the dirtbag climbers, and always tell them you're going to be there all summer [Wink] . The buffet at the lodge is easy to sneak into (done it about 15 times) and check the board at the ranger kiosk for climbing partners/ cheap deals on gear. Obviously, use the bear boxes and don't leave anything resembling food in your vehicle (you'll be rousted out of bed by wildlife mangement or a bear will rip your doors off). Don't talk to chongo or look at his book. Climb lost arrow spire!

    Larry the Tool Sucks

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    The guy is a dick. Notice how many extra mags for his (our) glock he had on his gun belt? I counted (3). Tell me that's not a gung- ho authority monger. Armed to the tee, with a bad attitude. I grew up in white center- where there were real badguys, and a REAL chance of a cop getting shot at, and they were a lot cooler- especially to harmless white kids. I was completely cooperative to him last weekend and felt like I was miss treated. He went out of his way to treet me like I was an asshole.

    aid leading Q&A

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    another thing- a useful trick for following is to pre-size your daisies for jumaring- mark the correct loop with a sharpie, so you can set up quickly. (we all know what a pain jummaring is if your daisy lengths are incorrect)

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