justclimb

a friend and I did the traverse last year and the avalanch debris on the way out was terrible. Is there a better route this year? thanks

Thanks for all the beta. It sounds like we will go with our first instinct and take our 7.8mm rope and light glacier gear. Thanks again Jim

Does any one have any beta on the gear needed for the Ptarmigan Traverse and/or Dome Peak? I'm planning on bringing crampons and ice ax, but was wondering if a rope, harness and rescue gear (pickets, texas prussik, et) was needed? We are going as a party of two in mid August and have a fair amount of glacier experience and feel confident on some glaciers without a rope, but I don't want to take too many risks. any advise on part or all of the route would be helpfull. Thanks Jim

Matt, Thanks for the link and advice on the pitfalls of the overboot. I have purchased some gear from climbhigh in the past (love their customer service and products they carry), but their web site is very limited and I just ordered a new catalog a few days ago. I will let you know how it works out. Thanks

We will be climbing ImJeTse (Island Peak) and Loboje East, both a little over 20,000 and requiring crampons and ropes. We are going in October and plan on treking in with light weight trail runners and then plan on switching to our heavier leathers at base camp for each climb. We only "plan" on spending one night above base camp. We were thinking about our leathers because they are so much more comfortable than plastics and the first day above base on each climb will have a lot of hiking on rock/scree. We were thinking we could get away without overboots as mattp suggusted, but we are planning apline starts on each climb and would like the added safety of the overboots. Matt where did you get the Bergshrund overboots? Was there anything you did not like about them? Any other suggestions?

We will be climbing some minor peaks in Nepal (approx 20,000 ft) and have decided not to take our plastics. (by the way, I think you are right about OR Brooks Rangers for plastics, we used those on Denali) Plastics are pretty much slow us down due to the weight, inflexiblity, lack of feel, and poor performance on the approach. We are looking for advice on overboots that leave the sole exposed (I'll be using my La Sportiva K2s and my wife will be usings her One Sports). Thanks, Jim

Any advice on overboots for leather climbing boots. Thanks in advance.

Any route/ trail head information for the Coleman-Demming route on Baker or the Sulfide route on Shuksan. Thanks for the help. Jim

The cable is permanently attached to the middle of the picket, but by threading it through the top hole (or any other for that matter)it will allow you to place the picket all the way and not leverage it.

I often clip into my tools at the belay and use them as part of the anchor system. Is the Android system designed to handle that force and be part of the belay? Full strength leashes are an important safety issue.

AJ, I have been using Yates Pickets for a few years now and my MSRs just sit in my basement. The Yates are easier to rack and simplier to use. They do not need a runner because a cable is attached to the picket in the middle. This lets you use it as a deadman or a vertical picket. The head is also reinforced so it does not get too smashed when you hammer it in. They seem lighter, although I have not weighed them. I would not go back to MSR.