scot'teryx
-
Posts
1144 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by scot'teryx
-
-
I just hate rappeling in general. I know a few friends that I dont climb with that go out of their way to rappel, because it's so much fun
-
-
Why? Did they take home a national?
-
Yikes, hood in August will be a choss pile with some slush mixed in {near} the top. I would advise doing Adams up the south side, with the normal snow year, base camp to pikers peak {might} be snow free. Tahoma Glacier route on Rainier is a commiting route as far as I have heard. Generally done with 2-3 base camps (Input anyone?) and the Tahoma glacier can get pretty broken up. Go around the other side and head up the Emmons route.
-
So even though it is via a contractor, you still need to wait for Jacks to open or try and get there before they close the night before?
Total cost per permit is $22. The $15 permit fee will be used by the Forest Service to manage the climbing program, and maintain roads and facilities. The $7 service charge will be used by the Mount St. Helens Institute to fund permit processing and to help support the Mount St. Helens climbing program through educational and resource management programs.I thought the Sno Park permits would help road maintenance but I guess that's just for snow removal and cross country trail maintenance.
Wilderness Areas36 CFR 261 prohibits mechanized and motorized equipment in wilderness areas.This means snowmobiles are not allowed in wilderness areas. Cross-country skiing is allowed. Please note that some of the groomed snowmobile trails run parallel with the Wilderness boundaries. Keep snowmobiles outside Wilderness areas. Entering the Wilderness on motorized vehicles will result in a citation.
http://www.fs.fed.us/gpnf/recreation/winter/recreation-areas/mount-st-helens.shtml#permits
How come this has NEVER been enforced on the mountain?
-
What a total scam! I would hope this would include a parking lot for climbers (in winter) since the snowmobilers take up the larger lot. I will make it a point to not head down that way. I am sure snowmobilers can still go to the top and only have to pay for a sno Park permit next season.
-
Mt Si is the largest Mountian in the Whole World, Tiger Mountain has the largest relief of anything in the world
-
Holy Crap, I read about you guys here:
http://www.randosaigai.com/fuhrerfinger.htm
Way to go Jens and Loren, f'in hairball!
-
Climb: Mount Shuksan-Sulphide Snowfield
Date of Climb: 7/1/2006
Trip Report:
Mia and I left my house at midnight on Friday and picked up Devin @ 1215 in DT Everett. We met up with Dan and Aaron near the Shannon Creek Trailhead around 230am and stated hiking up at 3am. Our departure time was decided on based on a few simple concepts. Leave early enough to beat the crowds on the summit, and hope to beat the sun from melting the firm snow on the final summit scramble. We also wanted to have good corn to ski instead of late afternoon mashed potatoes.
Morning Light on the Cascades
The Shannon Creek trail is not the most enjoyable trail with long things on your pack, so without daylight, our sticks would get caught on 15% of the foliage we passed by or under. Once we got out of the brush and such it was much better. We lost the trail just before breaking out onto the upper ridge with our first glimpse of Baker. It was almost 430am so the light effects on the mountain were awesome. We hit continuous snow from here, so Devin and I stashed our approach shoes and booted the rest of the way up (thought skins might have been useless in the glop).
Mystic Nacho above the Notch
We gained the notch on some steeper snow and made our traverse towards the lower Sulphide, after crossing some debris paths from a recent snow remnant that had fallen from above, some blocks were the size of fridges. We found the first place to filter water and roped up at the top of the first hill of the glacier. There was only one tent at the lower camp, so it seemed desolate in comparison to my 2 previous trips.
The glacier was in great shape, and not a single crevasse was encountered on route. It was evident from down lower that there were some that were going to open up soon on the hill just steps past the higest camps. We all roped up since we brought our 30m ropes, but the other groups we ran into did not have ropes or other gear. The slog up was uneventful, and made the decision to never want to walk up this route again. The sulphide is about as boring as it gets, yet the panoramic views from the glacier are phenomenol. We took quite a few breaks and had one long one before the last stretch towards the summit pyramid.
Mia on the Upper Sulphide
Most of us had not slept since Thursday night, and the others had 30-90 minutes of sleep on Friday night, so we were all very tired and delirious at points.
Once below the scramble, Aaron and myself decided to refuel and rest while the others went to the top. I got my skis waxed and got my gear ready to point the skis downhill. Once Devin retured from the summit we began our descent and headed down to low camp to wait for the others, and waited there for over and hour. Once they returned, we skied down the remainder of the snow to about 4500'. The suncups on the lower glacier were not that bad, but the runnels were. Some were only spaced about 5 feet apart some tight slalom turns were necessary to stay out of the 12" deep runnels.
Devin Begins the Descent
From here it was straight down until you hit the trail and then the death march out. The Shannon Creek trail sucks bad and needs some serious attention.
Crystal Glacier
Gear Notes:
Carried: Crampons/Pickets/Rope/Ice Axe
Used: None of the above
Approach Notes:
Trail was brushy, snow starts around 4000, good coverage after that. Lots of water at high camp.
More Pics Here:
-
I'm at Cascade Crags every Thursday night from 630-830 with my 2.5yo. I have some free passes that I'll share. She free climbs 5.6 and I plan on putting the harness on her tonight.
-
Can also be done in a day, sverdina and I attempted it 2 years ago with a 3 or 4 am start, but got lost at the Boulder Basin spur in the dark. Rode bikes in on the flat trail for the first 4 miles. We got lost and bushwacked for a good 2 hours before we realized our mistake and ran into a mother bear and her cub. By the time we reached the Walrus I had totally bonked and he had to get back to Seattle that evening. Nice place and fun trip. The Walrus looks to be in great shaoe right now.
-
That is a classic climb, a much better alt than the tooth. Approaching via Kendall Peak Lakes trail was the option we used a few years back, but not sure if it's gated anymore. Certainly saved us about 1-2 miles from what I heard.
Standing glissades down the scree on the descent were pretty fun. I was lucky enought to get the 2nd pitch (cherry IMO).
-
That's totally rude and wrong. I still don't get it when stuff like that happens. They probably had no control or were just ignorant.
Amazing how many times I have seen people pass rope teams on the uphill side when ascending as well.
-
Heading up there this Saturday and will report conditions....
-
New Orange BD clipfix bag, somewhere on the Cascade Pass trail. On
-
That is a sweet shot!
-
We were told by the rangers in Marblemount that a NWFP was not needed, so I did not have one. I did not get a ticket, so that's odd they checked. I loved the look on the AAI group's faces that were trudging up the road with 6 day packs. It was obvious they were thinking "Why can't we ride bikes?"
-
If we got 30 people together with shovels, we could have it cleared out in 1-2 hours. The road is totally fine, we even saw the ranger truck at the Boston Basin TH. THe bike down that road only took 5 minutes though, and my skis acted like sails on the way out, a little extra speed!
Road is bone dry
-
That's awesome news.....
That just shows the raw power of cc.com.
Get well soon Kurt!
-
Climb: Sahale Peak-Cascade Pass
Date of Climb: 6/21/2006
Trip Report:
This trip was a graduation climb for some students in a Glacier course (Not the Mountaineers), and I figured it would be a good trip to bring the skis. I was able to get under 40lbs with my new BD Skylight Tent (Kicks Ass) and a little under 60 with the skis, boots, and skins (no need for the skins the entire trip).
We left Everett at 5am and got to Marblemount around 7am and got our permit. The road was still closed, but we all brought our bikes to push to the trailhead. An overnight pack with skis and boots on a bike is quite a challenge going uphill on that steep paved road, so I did walk most of it.
It drizzled and was very socked in most of the day, with the weak high pressure system never making it's way into the Cascade River Valley. Since most of the students were newbies, we hiked the trail to Cascade Pass. I really wish we would have bushwacked, but the trail was the best choice. No bears this time, only a young deer that was very curious. There was spotty snow on the trail until you reach the long traverse towards Cascade Pass, where there is alot of snow. Once at the pass, we started to ascend the partially melted out switchbacks and then make a b-line straight for the ridge once we reachec continuous snow.
Once of the students (Elisha) was on the steeper slope and took a fall, but arrested quickly, but then slipped again and started a very quick and uncontrollable slide down the slope. Her heavy pack kept her face down, but she could not regain control of her ice axe until about another 25 yards on the steep and sugary snow that was very fast. By the time she got her axe it was too late and she landed in a pile of talus and then cries followed shortly thereafter. It was at that time I knew the trip had been compromised. We all ran down to her and began assesing the situation, getting her warm, checking for injuries. It was mostly internal brusing with a twisted ankle. We then decided we had to make camp and the only place to do so was 500 feet below us at Cascade Pass.
She was unable to put weight on her one foot, so we placed a harness on her and a 30m rope. 2 guys would be behind her in a V Formation, and 2 in front of her to get her down the slope. I was in charge of her pack, which I tied a long runner to and pushed it downhill, sideslipping the slope with my skis. Several times the pack wanted to take me down the hill very fast, so it was arduous work.
Once at the pass we got her in a tent and made comfortable. It was still drizzling, so the attitude of the group slowly fizzled into nothing. Around 9pm, the sun came out on the west side of the pass and allowed us to finally see some peaks (HLP/The Triad/Eldorado/Torment). We shot some pictures, and then I decided to hit some of the corn on the arm just south of Cascade Pass on the way up to the Ptarmidgan Traverse. The slope was awesome, and the views kicked ass with the alpenglow effects.
The Triad
We all slept very well that night, and awoke to much better views the next morning, although none of us felt like heading up to Sahale that morning (now regreted). Instead, we all hiked up to the very top of the arm south of the pass and got great veiw of Sahale and others. The ski descent was awesome, creamy corn...
Ran into Phil Fortier as they made their way over the pass, and heard that a couple more skiers passed by as we were up on the arm.
We packed up and started the descent. Everyone in the group took one or two things from Elisha so that her pack could weigh next to nothing, which really helped her descent. Down at the trailhead, everyone was very stoked to have the bikes there (except Cody, who rode a flat tire all the way down to MP21). The other bummer was that when we got back to the Eastmont Park N Ride at x189, Caleb said "Dude, where's my Car?". It was stolen! 2 days later it was recovered, big bummer though, especially since he had just moved down to Hood River.
All in all a good trip, not stuck at home, and got the skis out. I am still very much a fan of the BD Crossbows.
A continuous line can still be made form the pass down to the trailhead with limited bushwacking if a good line is picked
Gear Notes:
Miox, BD Skylight Tent
Approach Notes:
Road closed at MP21 (past eldorado), small plug of snow before trailhead, but parking lot is totally melted out???
-
June 17, 2006
I'm not from the future, and hopefully the weather won't be like that in July
-
July 17, 2006
-
GONE!
One of the last items leftover from the gear shop. Brand new in box with CD, Winter 2006 model. Factory sealed. Retail = $300
Sell for $225
-
The first $140 takes them!
[TR] Mount Shuksan- Sulphide Snowfield 7/1/2006
in North Cascades
Posted
No water in the early morning, but seemed to be plenty in the afternoon. I am sure there has been a ton of snowmelt in the past few weeks, so no worries for water sources up near camps.