dan_e

One used once, like new condition and the other one was never used. Selling as a pair only.

Current version, barely used. I thought I would get into ice climbing again since I am back east, but I am just not feeling it. Hard time selling these out here for some reason so I am trying back in my old home! Will accept venmo or paypal. Thanks!

Papers, studies and controlled conditions tests are nice to have, but there is no substitute for real world testing! I've fallen on screws twice in 23 years of ice climbing. Only one was a real test of the screw and the ice. It was a high fall factor on a 13cm in good ice. My partner and I examined the ice after my fall and there was no visible ice fractures and the screw had no signs of damage. Although it sucks to fall ice climbing, it reaffirmed that a properly placed screw in good ice will hold significant falls. My $.02

jpark and I did Chockstone on 12/8. It was in great shape. We also checked out Keekwulee Falls on 12/10. The falls were formed from top to bottom, however we decided not to climb due to the giant water spouts on the top of the left column. The right side was also a gusher. We did however find some *new* ice. Two climbs above Keekwulee came into view after some early morning fog lifted. These are not the climbs listed in the guide and they are on the NW side of the trail (before the switchbacks above the falls). No idea if they've even been climbed. Here's a few pics of the route I've named "Out of the Fog" WI 3+, 50m. Out of the Fog, 50m, WI 3+ jpark near the top of the route on the route. It's about 50m, WI 3+ and much more fun than it looks! The ice thickness was about 10cm for the entire route and poorly bonded in places. jpark topping out of Out of the Fog Out of the Fog is on the right. The route on the left looked about the same grade, but clearly not as wide and probably thinner. Upper part of Keekwulee Falls

This recent cold snap did produce some ice, even as low as x38. Unfortunately most of it isn't well formed and will probably be gone in a few days. I managed to get up the NW Buttress on Chair this morning. The snow conditions were very good, the ice not so much but better than nothing. Some routes around source lake are also coming in, including Source Lake Line, still they probably won't last. There was a lot of melting and ice falling down when I left around 1 pm. The temp back at the car was still 29 degrees and it's supposed to be fairly cold tonight so conditions could be okay tomorrow. I would recommend going early. By the time I got to the steep, albeit very short ice step it had started melting and a few chunks of ice were coming down as well. Here's a pic showing the NW Buttress of Chair. Go get it before it melts!

Great job to the both of you! Also great to hear Paul is still out flying. I flew with those guys ages ago (1994) and I still mention them to anyone that is talking about heading up there. I really need to get back to AK.

@Jens Rap Wall is a dry-tooling crag, the anchors do get buried which can be a pain, however imo they are located correctly for the routes. I took a 20'+ inverted fall on RZA last year because I slipped trying to find and clip the chains which were buried in snow. It was a fun ride, however a bit scary to think of now considering almost all the bolts needed tightening on that route! If you go after the snow falls I would suggest climbing around to the top, rap off one of the trees above the cliff and then clean the chains. Some of the bolts get covered as well, especially on the right side. I mainly go there in the fall since the routes are much more fun when they are snow/ice free.

Out at Rap Wall again this Sat, took way too many falls and couldn't seem to stop dropping my right Nomic, no major damage except for a busted griprest. I did get a bit battered though. That being said the bolts have been inspected and tightened on all routes except for the roof (far left) and Ghost Dog (far right).

Climbed at Rap Wall today and brought the wrench along for a loose nut that I found on Chuck D last time I was up there. What I thought was only a loose nut turned out to be a bolt that wasn't expanded, as in it literally felt like the bolt was only tapped in! I replaced the missing bolt on the climb with the large crack last year, it's the one in the overhang the the right of the crack. I fell on it hard last year so it's been tested. I heard Chad Kellogg fell on the original bolt a while back and it pulled sending him flat on his back to the slab below. At this point I would consider all bolts at Rap Wall suspect. I will be tightening the remaining ones when I get a chance, but it may be a while. All the bolts where tightened on Chuck D, including the anchor bolts. Have fun out there!

Just leave the old gear behind, that's one way to upgrade to modern pro Tom! To whoever may find Tom's gear...no that it's cursed and using it will lead to your demise!

Nice job guys! Not exactly summer conditions up there right now, but for me that was a blessing. It did make the summit pinnacle pretty exciting to say the least! I did the NW Face on Milk Creek Glacier (not the North Lobe) on 7/1. After seeing your photos I can tell you that conditions haven't changed in a week. It was neve from the start of the snowline all the way to about 9,500. The rest was rime, but surprisingly good rime. The 20' of rock I had to climb on the East side was a bit scary, committing moves with huge drops down the East face. The rock is crap, but amazingly it all stayed in place! If anyone is thinking about climbing this peak I would do it soon as conditions like this won't last. From my perspective this is the time to climb this peak since there is much less danger from rock fall and the chossy summit pinnacle is a fairly pleasant, albeit steep snow/rime ice climb.

Solid, good work guys! This is shaping up to be an epic Strobach season!

From BD: QC Lab: How strong is the Spinner Leash? Thought I would post this link since it was mentioned in this thread. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/994566#Post994566

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/blog/index/view/slug/qc-lab-how-strong-is-the-spinner-leash I love the illustration with the ice tool stuck in the climbers face! My comment from 11/10: "After all the umbilicals are meant to save a dropped tool, not to hold a fall!" I am glad we're on the same page on this one BD.

Jpark and I climb Frenchman Falls today. We started at 0-dark-30 and geared up at the car for a quick walk in approach. Jpark noticed that a road skirts the base of the cliffs the last time he was there, this made for a speedy approach and it appears others have been doing the same. We started the approach at first light. While walking in we noticed the climb was showing some signs of thinning, however the top appeared to be fully closed. The temp when we left the car was 32 degrees and it stayed that way pretty much all day. Our only concern was sun, the forecast said partly cloud so we hoped for the best. I managed to climb to the first step before the sun decided to peak out and JP was doing his best to talk me out of continuing. Fortunately it was a decent spot to wait and see if the clouds would roll back in. A few quick prayers to Shiva (our ice goddess) and the clouds thickened. Fortunately the sun stayed behind the clouds for the rest of the climb. We would have bailed if the sun stayed out. We belayed at the good stance about 30-40' from the top (the start of the fragile upper ice dome). I brought rock gear and I was happy to get in a tri-cam for the exit move (no chance for a screw since the ice was only 1" thick in places). A few quick moves on the rock and left of the most fragile ice led to a beautiful, thick frozen stream! Usually the top-outs in areas like this are horrendous so this was truly a delight! PICS Bottom of the Route Lower Section - mushrooms galore! Me nearing top of pitch one Jpark on the Flora filled top out Gear Notes: 13cm and 16cm screws (thick ice can be found). One tied of column and one red tri-cam in a pocket around 4' from the top. Approach Notes: You can park on the right just as you start to see the Coulee or at the left pull-out a bit further down the road. Walk along the cliff edge until you meet the stream when it crosses under the road. Follow the road to the base of the climb (about 20 mins). Descent Notes: We were in no hurry so we decided to walk off (the rappel is off a fairly stout Sage bush). Hike up the gully to the top, not far from here the road appears. Walk out on the road or along the cliff edge until the angle lessens. This is just above where that stream crosses under the road. It's actually a nice way to get back the car.