Here is a better one. https://www.summitpost.org/so-you-want-to-climb-mt-rainier/507227
FWIW, if you are carrying 40 -60 pounds, you are doing it wrong.
The rain then freeze cycle last week made for some good alpine ice conditions at the pass. NW Butt on Chair was in cruiser condition yesterday. Would likely be hard to protect per usual. The upcoming snow fall will likely make it wallowy again. Hard to tell if routes on Snoqualmie are in or not. Someone should go check out NY gulley.
Had to chop out the cornice.