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[TR] Redoubt-Spickard - 8/2/2011


bonathanjarrett

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Trip: Redoubt-Spickard -

 

Date: 8/2/2011

 

Trip Report:

JT and I went up to climb the Redoubt and Spickard Thursday of last week. Crossing into Canada was hampered by mentioning that we had only met "two weeks ago on the internet" and in person four hours ago. Flagged, we were sent inside for another questioning.

 

The approach up Depot Creek took longer than expected as the section before the waterfall was pretty overgrown and we lost the trail temporarily.

Bushwack.JPG

Above the falls, we again screwed around a bit trying to figure out where the trail went. Eventually we discovered that we need to stay right up between the creek and the scree slope/slide alder...no higher.

Creek.JPG

The next morning we headed up despite a lower cloud ceiling and eventually made our way, through the notch onto the south side.Notch3.JPG

 

Redoubt_Route.jpg

 

.DSC01593.JPG

 

We summited in the clouds but were treated to some fleeting views of the surrouding peaks. For those interested, this is what the North Face of Bear looks like right now.Bear.JPG

We descended back to camp and moved to the col between Custer and Spickard with the intention of climbing Spickard and then doing the Custer-Rahm Traverse. Overnight, one of my insoles disappeared, so we abandoned the the second half of the plan and climbed the Silver Glacier, past the bergschrund (no problems), and onto the ridge about 200' below the summit. 3rd+ish class climbing brought us to the summit.

Spickard.JPG

 

DSC016041.JPG

After basking in the sun (far better weather and views than the previous day), we descended and busted back out to the car and on to Seattle.DSC01608.JPG(Mox)

Great climb with a great partner\

 

Gear Notes:

Two pickets: used for protecting the traverse over the berschrund to the ridge on Spickard.

Selection of nuts: never used

Some tat: never used as all rap stations are in good order

 

 

Approach Notes:

-The road along Chilliwack Lake is VERY potholed. Don't expected to go more than 10mph

-We parked about a mile from the washout. My Outback probably could have made it with a couple of moved rocks, but the paint job would have suffered.

-The trail is generally in good shape. If you think you are going the wrong way, you probably are. The only problem was approaching the base of the falls. A downed tree and overgrown brush caused us to doubt the direction of the trail, but the clues were all there, including an arrow chainsawed into a log where you ascend a short section of stream bed.

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