[TR] Guye Peak- Improbable Traverse 2/26/2005

[Lokey]

Climb: Guye Peak-Improbable Traverse

 

Date of Climb: 2/26/2005

 

Trip Report:

First note: a 30% snow pack is a 30% snowpack.

 

Mike and I left our car at the alpental parking lot at 8:00. For the end of February, this was good timing. The sun hit th wall when we were on our first pitch, and we enjoyed almost t-shirt weather all the way up.

 

The first pitch is 4th class with maybe one low-5th move. I found no pro so the exposure of the gulley can make this run a little unnerving. The first two pitches have great webbing anchors so you can move pretty fast. The third pitch took us up an incredible dihedral leading to lunch ledge. A note, if you don't like running out gear, you might want to bring something bigger than a number 2 camalot. There is a conveient, shiny hex stuck in the middle of this great pitch - 5.7. FYI -Good wrap anchors from here down.

 

It can be really hard to see where to go from here. There's a sling up and left which is a direct route. I think it's more like 5.9. Never been there. Anyway, look for small wired nut loops to head slight up and right. there are only two piton (one is a little loose) along the travers. Don't be afraid though, there's plenty of room for gear. The exposure is fantastic. The last protection is a small piece of cord crammed in this little crack - comfort at best for the last, airy move to a big ledge. Don't be fooled into going down befor this or you'll miss this great series of moves.

 

There's not much to belay from on this ledge. Rope drag to move up is a pain but you can move up 20 feet to a small set of cracks. From here, it's 200 feet of 3rd class in beautiful sunshine to a treed ledge. Now the fun began (see first comment).

 

All slopes facing remotely north have snow on them. While not steep, my feet still recall the incredible pain of 100 meters of calf to knee-deep snow. It's the type of granular snow that when you put your hand in it, a bunch of snow crystals stick (burning) to your skin. Ouch.

 

The snow does end (for now) and ledges of rock with intermediate steep bulges lead to the summit. For anyone who's used Becky's guide to look at this route, his inset line drawing of the summits is useless. From here back to the car there was snow. So if you don't like wet feet drag those large, waterproof boots and gatos. For us, we kept with the small-lightweight tennies and just got wet!

 

Cross from the south to the middle summit. Sketchy snow slopes lead down to a saddle with the north summit where there's an anchor to rappel (thank god). At the bottom traverse across and up the first gulley to the ridgetop. Gentle snow slopes and a packed foot trail lead slipping, sliding, and squishing back to the car.

 

Time: 5 hours up from car...2 hours down. We headed all the way to the pass at Snoqualmie before heading down. Stay in the trees traversing right and slightly down instead of heading up to much.

 

Gear Notes:

Bring a #3 (or equivalent) if you aren't comfortable running it a little bit.

 

Approach Notes:

First timers? explore all of the houseing roads to look for the turnout at the foot of the scree slope leading to the prominent gulley and the base of the rock face. The road is in the first loop of houses when you enter the Alpental area.

[StickBoy]

Climbing up the snow after the treed ledge in rock shoes was one hell of a way to cool down the feet after all the climbing in the sun. Rock shoes don't climb up snow slopes very well for those of you who haven't tried yet. The day was beautiful a the climbing was fantastic. Hope everyone else got theirs this weekend.

[gyselinck]

Guye Peak : Eastern Washington :: Whiskey Dick Mountain : Alpine Lakes

 

[Dru]

While not steep, my feet still recall the incredible pain of 100 meters of calf to knee-deep snow. It's the type of granular snow that when you put your hand in it, a bunch of snow crystals stick (burning) to your skin. Ouch.

 

Epic!!!

[slothrop]

Anyone know of this route being climbed in the winter before?

[gyselinck]

Yes. Kit Lewis.