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#765102 - 01/27/08 10:34 PM
Possible FA of Naramata Ck Climbs
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TomZ
stranger
Registered: 01/27/08
Posts: 2
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Possible First Accents on Naramata Creek
Dates: Jan 23/24 2008
Climbers: Jeremy Thom, Tom Zajac
We climbed possible first accents of three moderate routes on Naramata creek in the Okanagan town of Naramata. There are no reports of previous accents that we could find. We would not be surprised if these had been climbed previously, they are very easy to access. However, we feel if anyone had previously climbed the upper canyon they would want to report it. I would appreciate any reports of previous accents, or comments on grading.
Access
Naramata creek is about 5 hrs from Vancouver. From downtown Penticton, (Main & Front St) drive East on Front St. until you come to a round-about. Turn on to Naramata Road. Drive 12.4 km until you reach Arawana Road. Turn right and drive up for 1.2 km until you cross the Kettle Valley Railway right-of-way (aka TransCanada Trail). There, either turn left to reach lower trackside climbs or carry on up Arawana Road to reach the hidden canyon.
For the lower climbs, drive North for 1 km along the KVR until you reach a dip in the railroad grade. Look for a “125” sign, and a concrete flume. Walk 50m down the creek bed below the flume to the top of the climbs. They are not visible until you are standing right on top of them. Rap off the numerous trees down the climbs.
For the upper canyon, carry on up Arawana Road to 2.5 km (from Naramata Rd.) to the first of a series of switchbacks. Park on the side of the road, and walk North from the switchback until you reach the creek bed. Follow the creek up until you find a steep box canyon. Use caution while walking in the canyon, there were lots of pools covered by thin ice and hidden by snow. We fell through multiple times resulting in no less than 7 boot soakings. Total distance from the switchback, 300m, 10 min. 20 min with a ladder (see below).
Weather
There is a lot of water flow in Naramata creek. In order for these climbs to form, there needs to be a prolonged freeze in the Okanagan. We had 5 days of temperatures between -5 and -14 at Penticton airport leading up to climbing. Ice had formed and was climbable, but there was still significant water flowing behind, through and over the climbs. I would suspect that these climbs form every year during the annual week or two of cold weather that rolls in during January or February, but the climbing likely doesn’t last long.
Climbs - Lower climbs
The lower climbs are on a braided waterfall just below the rail grade. There are two obvious main lines, each with two steps. There are variations on each of these lines within the braided falls. These are easy climbs. Lots of trees to rap off, or to use as TR anchors.
Slurpee WI2+, 25 m – PFA (TR) T Zajac, J Thom, Jan 23, 2008
The left most climb. As the name suggests, it’s wet. The main flow of the water follows this route. A combination of wet slush, brittle ice, and onion skin prevented us from trying a lead ascent.
Hope WI2+, 30m - PFA J Thom, T Zajac, Jan 23, 2008.
The rightmost line within the falls. Dryer than Slurpee. This climb likely is ‘in’ sooner and longer than the other climbs.
Upper climb
The upper hidden canyon is a spectacular location. A narrow box canyon 3m wide with a steep ice face at the end. Use caution on the thin ice of the canyon floor. There is a narrow, short, unclimbed route under a large boulder in the lower half of the canyon.
Lower section of Wet Feet, with protective moat. Note holes where both of us fell through while desperately trying to get to base of climb.
Wet Feet WI3, 60m – PFA J Thom, T Zajac, Jan 24, 2008.
The crux of this climb is the last 3m of access. It is protected by a moat of water, at least 1m deep. While covered with ice, it was not thick enough to support the weight of a climber. We returned the following day with an extension ladder which we used as a bridge. The lower 4m of ice was either thin or chandeliered, brittle, detached several inches from the rock, had a large flow of water flowing behind the ice, and was resting only on the 1.5” of ice on the surface of the moat. Jer nearly backed off, being a WI3 leader at best and fearing a plunge in the moat, but his marital issues put him in the necessary state of mind. The first 15m of steeper ice leads rightwards to a series of thinly iced pools (the final 20m were lead with a boot full of water) and steps. There is the option of a left finish and other ice to play on near the top. Walk off to the right around back to the entrance of the canyon (10 min) Bring a ladder, long plank, or rubber dingy to access this great climb.
Conclusion
Naramata creek could easily provide a full day worth of moderate climbing. The lower section has easy access and lots of tree anchors. It would be a great place to take a novice ice climber. There are many variations that could be climbed all day. The upper canyon is a very cool setting. I would recommend this climb to anyone. Just make sure it is cold and have a plan to cross the moat.
pic below of lower climbs, Slurpee to the left (lower step partially hidden), Hope to right
     
Edited by TomZ (01/27/08 11:06 PM)
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